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Sold the BP4W yesterday with everything from the complete OEM exhaust to the tip of the inlet on the OEM intake filter box for $850. Also sold the OEM subframe for $175 locally as it has the desirable NB geometry, so that's some nice cash back in the pocket to cover more swap parts costs.
Want to know what a K24A2 swap is going to cost you? It's something I get asked frequently, so I made a quick spreadsheet (link below) to follow along with. So far into the build it looks deceivingly affordable, but there's a lot of high dollar items to buy yet. I expect to fall somewhere in the $8500 range all said and done with the "extras" added in that I didn't NEED to have. I broke down those "extras" as a separate line item in case you really want to see just how cheap you could do a swap without them. Hoping to save a few bucks with upcoming Black Friday sales.
Another big Kmiata order submitted and another couple weeks of waiting starts. It seems everything that I need right now is on backorder. In hindsight, waiting to order until after the z3 swap was announced was probably a silly idea, but I can't drive the car until spring anyways so no biggie.
Got the support bar bolted up. Might keep it pink for the laughs, might paint it black later. We will see. Nice piece regardless.
Also tossed the new water neck on. Patiently waiting on the oil pan setup to show up before really bolting the motor together again for the last time.
I will be cutting it shorter like everyone else then hitting it with a fresh coat of paint as there is some surface rust starting on it, just haven't gotten to it yet is all.
I will be cutting it shorter like everyone else then hitting it with a fresh coat of paint as there is some surface rust starting on it, just haven't gotten to it yet is all.
Don't bother, we just got some aluminum barbed fittings that lock into the thermostat housing so you can just run a basic 5/8" hose and delete the hard pipe. Not even on the website yet but they will be soon!
__________________ KPower Industries
Home of the original KMiata Swap
Don't bother, we just got some aluminum barbed fittings that lock into the thermostat housing so you can just run a basic 5/8" hose and delete the hard pipe. Not even on the website yet but they will be soon!
Thank goodness i'm not gonna be swapping my car for at least another couple of years. Seems like every week you guys are innovating the swap process with new and better parts.
Thank goodness i'm not gonna be swapping my car for at least another couple of years. Seems like every week you guys are innovating the swap process with new and better parts.
That's what I kept telling myself 2 years ago... here I am, 2 years & multiple test drives in various K-swapped miatas later, in the middle of my own swap, and David is still making new parts that make me re-think things.. what a madman!
That's what I kept telling myself 2 years ago... here I am, 2 years & multiple test drives in various K-swapped miatas later, in the middle of my own swap, and David is still making new parts that make me re-think things.. what a madman!
I'm hoping I'll get a chance for a ride-along or a test drive at the K miata day this summer.
I have my wiring harness, but I'm still pounding my head against the wall for how to connect it all together. Certainly doesn't help that I have a K24Z and everything is different.
Start out tonight's post with the pretty things. I was sent this photo of my fender vents on Deep Eddy Racing's Turbo NA endurance car. The first customer of mine to install the vents on flared fenders, and it looks awesome.
Next up, I was browsing online ads like I normally do and saw a local car that caught my eye. It was an ATS-V sedan with the LF4 3.6L TT V6 & 6 speed manual transmission. At the very least, it was worth a test drive, so yesterday I decided to swing over and check it out. When I was shopping for CTS-V's this car was always one on my radar, but I never pulled the trigger due to it being so much more expensive. At approximately 3800lbs and 420whp, I was excited to see what it was about.
It turns out that I wasn't missing out on a whole lot, which was not the reaction I was expecting to have after driving such a car. While the interior was trimmed nicely, and the chassis/suspension/brakes were absolutely phenomenal... The power delivery left a lot to be desired. As the driver, I felt quite disconnected from the engine. I was hopeful that at the upper end of the powerband would start pulling harder than it did, but it just left me completely underwhelmed and looking for more which would be a deal breaker if I was seriously in the market for one. The gauge cluster and radio surround also were completely out of date for how modern the rest of the car was. Goes to show that just because a car looks good on paper, doesn't mean you'll like it when you hop into one. It will be interesting to pay attention to how aftermarket engine mods on these keeps going, because everything else is there to create a really fun daily.
Got home from the test drive and immediately felt motivated to keep the hammer down on the miata, because screw ATS-V's, miata is always the answer.
Removed the dash, removed the pedal assemblies, started pulling all the wiring through the firewall, de-loomed everything
Goodbye to the firewall sound deadening and insulation! Worth a couple pounds towards my weight loss goals of the car and makes wiring along the firewall easier to get to.
Current pile of unused pieces from the wiring harness pruning. A lot more to go, but its a start.
Engine bay is looking pretty bare. I'm looking into giving it a fresh coat of paint as long as I'm this far into it. There's a handful of scratches and scuffs throughout the bay that would be nice to correct and it would seem that now is the time to do it.
Yanked the heater tube from the thermostat housing per David's recommendation. Now just waiting on the new part to get added to the website! Waiting on the oil pan to come in before I can get it all sealed up. Fingers crossed on it shipping this week.
I get what they were going for with the LF4, but that car absolutely should have just had an LT1 in it. Would have gone a long way towards making the car the world beater it should have been with that chassis.
I get what they were going for with the LF4, but that car absolutely should have just had an LT1 in it. Would have gone a long way towards making the car the world beater it should have been with that chassis.
Agreed. That car with an LT1 would've been a monster...
Speaking of which, there's a prominent GM shop working on putting the LT4 in one... if only money grew on trees...
Black Friday deals started making their way to the door. Got a fair number of deals on misc parts and pieces that I know I'd want or need at some point in the project, so I snagged what I could get with discounts.
AEM dryflow air filter
Ktuned breather filter (needed to find one to match my AEM because I'm OCD like that.. Ktuned FTW)
Radium Engineering Fuel Rail
Skunk2 K to B series TPS adapter
NOT SHOWN: Acuity Hall Effect K-series TPS Sensor
Kmiata RBB Intake Manifold
74mm Throttle Body
Gaskets & such
Kmiata Belt and Pulley Setup
5X Racing Shifter Rebuild Kit with bronze bushing. My current shifter was feeling a little sloppy. In addition, the upper boot was torn, so there was quite a bit of hot air making its way into the cabin due to my minimalist console exposing the torn boot. This should fix all of that as long as I have things apart.
First thing I needed to do was test fit the Kmiata intake manifold up with my custom made upper water neck. As you can see, zero issues with fit-up. All sorts of space to work with.. YAY!
Now to hurry up and wait for more ordered parts to arrive while working on Left Lane Design projects in the meantime......
If you were following along to the fender vents posted in this build thread and want a set for yourself, I started a dedicated thread to another group buy. If interested, post up here. https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...-vents-101639/
Important piece worth a post of its own came in today.
Its not very well documented, but here's a quick history lesson on everything you need to know about Honda TPS's. The OEM K-series TPS sensor is extremely prone to failures and expensive. Kmiata makes this pretty clear, which is why they offer a B-series 74mm throttle body in their kits that allows you to use an OEM B series TPS sensor which is more reliable and much cheaper. Cool, right? Well, kind of... The problem that isn't very well documented is that the OEM B series TPS can give some false or jumpy readings that affect driveability in a higher vibration environment (*ahem* like a k24 with balance shafts deleted mounted on poly engine bushings in a miata *ahem*)
I'll let the description on Acuity's website do the talking on the sensor specifics, but its my opinion that if you are doing the Kswap, just get this hall effect sensor from the beginning and never worry about it again. Another benefit to running this sensor is you do not need the Kmiata B series TPS jumper harness which saves you $24.
To summarize, you will have an RSX engine harness plugging directly into a K-series Acuity TPS that bolts into a Skunk2 K-Series to B-Series adapter to read from a B-series throttle body. Clear as mud right? Ok sweet... my job here is done
In the effort of making things pretty on a budget, tested out a "new to me" type of paint on the throttle body last night. Should have cured overnight, but didn't check on it this morning. If all goes well, IM is prepped for coating tonight. Its a $11 experiment that can be corrected by powder coating if it doesn't turn out as good as I'd like, so we will see!
11-18-2019, 08:59 AM
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