20-21" at 1000'MSL here (or at least it used to be before I lost #2).

Your idle tuning affects this a lot. Make sure you've got a good idle mixture (13-14:1 seems to give best vacuum) and that it's stable.

Assuming no change in load, a vacuum leak would increase your idle speed but not really change your vacuum much. I don't think that's your issue.

Also, loads on the engine? Lights, AC? Those will drop your vacuum a lot as the ECU struggles to maintain RPM by opening the idle valve.

Might be the gauge. I can swap the autometer back in and see.

Or.... just hook a laptop up to it I suppose haha.

Hrmmm.... all signs fine this morning. 22-23 at idle, 26-28 during decel.

Idle tuning and such is a fickle thing sometimes. FWIW my Volvo idles at 14 inHg. When it idles... :rofl:

I think it's the gauge, honestly. These AEMs are seriously flaky pieces of shit. :bowrofl:



Anyways... i did things.

Took this thing:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399982683


Moving tops, belts, and seats between the two cars. Protip: NA seats in an NB is epic win.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399982683


Random picture of 5spd/4.3 gearing. People like this? This is terribad.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399982683


Complete. NA now has hardtop, Corbeau A4s (not sure if i'm a fan of these), Autopower Pro-Cam harnesses, Boss Frog harness bar, no soft top at all. Got a couple other small things i'm swapping over today as well. MSM pedal set, some bigass pimpy Alumatec front shock tower bar, Eclipse vents, and i'm trying to decide if i care enough to move the Alpine head unit over from the NB to the NA. I lost my headrest speakers. :(
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399982683




Random shot. Hood is definitely tweaked a little, probably from the terribad single hood strut setup. Sadface.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399982683

Hood looks pretty even to me. But you need to tug on the rear of the driver's side headlight cover a bit. Gently by hand (the way we do things here at mt.net).

4.3 + 5 speed means never having to look at your speedo. Speed in 5th will be ~RPM's x 2. Win!

It's definitely tweaked up on that side. I'll gently by hand tug the headlight for more enjoyment anyways, though.

I wish i had had time to do the rollbar install. (Ganked the Boss Frog Clear View off the NB) I feel like such a poseur driving around with harnesses and no roll bar.


I'm EXTREMELY satisfied with the improvement in feel the hardtop and maybe the harness bar made in chassis rigidity. It feels like a car, not a limpdick noodle toy.

Again, gently by hand.

Hard top, hard noodle.

Be careful, I already pulled the headlight cover up once, it is really flimsy. Like really, REALLY.

I was literally just about to tell you to update the thread here!

Also, clean your wheels.

I mean, the hood definitely sits up higher on that whole side as well. Looks like ass. :rofl:

Run with no hood and show off your pimpy valve cover and BEGi sticker.

I want nothing more than to give free ad space to Begi. :bowrofl::giggle:


I need to figure out seats and a clutch for this thing. I hate hate hate the FM clutch, and the seats are too damn high. Sadface.

Car seems to be doing quite well though, other than the stupid flaky pile of crap AEM water temp gauge.

Which FM clutch does it have?

Stage 1 Happy Meal. When we first got the car, it engaged right at the floorboard, and wasn't actually even disengaging all the way, making 1st and reverse an exercise in frustration.

I replaced the hydraulics, flushed and bled everything, made no difference. Adjusted the clutch, and getting it so it would disengage all the way meant it would slip like mad under full boost.

Then two weekends ago, it just randomly changed feel. It's fully disengaging, but engaging really high and just.... sucks. It's holding boost, but feels like crap. The entire pedal travel is one big grey area of engagement, there's no real "point."

I'm going to bleed it again this weekend, but i think the long term plan is to get a 949 clutch because i'm sick of this thing, and with all the other problems i've seen with the FM clutches recently, i don't want to take the chance of doing the work to put another one of those in and have it fuck up again.


To make matters worse, the NB1 we just sold on Sunday also had the same clutch/flywheel setup, and it was AWESOME. Tons of feel, positive engagement. So frustrating.

Sounds more like its your car, not the clutch. But who knows, maybe you got a dud clutch.

Clutch has been in the car for 20k miles, talked to the guy that originally built the car, and he said he had some intermittent problems with it. Cameron said it was weird when he had it, too.

I'm going with the clutch. Everything else is new. My guess is that it overheated and popped a spring from not disengaging fully. FM said that they did have a clutch back in the prototype stage that had these same symptoms, had something to do with something being too thick or something.

Suggested i remove the disc and take some measurements. To their credit, Brandon DID offer to help me out on a new disc if it did turn out to be defective (because he's a super nice guy), even though i'm not the original purchaser, but if i'm going to drop the trans, i'd rather just put something else in it.

NB Sport brakes en route. We racecar now.

I need the NB Sport booster and MC right? Car has ABS, need the MC be from an ABS car?

If you dont want to dick around with the brake lines then, yes the MC needs to be from an ABS car of that ABS style. IE 01+ abs in an NA chassis needs an 01+ ABS master to just have all the lines plug in. If you dont care about dicking around with bending lines then just use a non-abs master of your choice and block the banjo bolt hole with just a normal bolt and crush washer.

Gotcha. Booster the same either way?