When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Started with a couple easy parts. Water neck and oil filter relocation.
Then I assembled the oil pump and installed it, the baffle plate, and the pickup tube. The rods hit the baffle plate a little, so I'll need to clearance it.
Semi unrelated, I got my dash panel back from my friend and installed it. Will paint or wrap this after I make sure the new dash fits.
Any pictures of what you ended up doing as far as the rods to baffle plate contact?
Nice progress so far, I've got my kit as well but need to get started soon, have been busy with holiday and family stuff.
Washer on the oil pump bolt. Super simple fix. Picture from friends engine.
Theres a few other things not in the manual. You'll have to grind a spot near the passenger engine mount. You'll also need to get an m12x55mm extra fine bolt for the mount. You'll need new oil pan bolts (m6x1.0x25mm). And three new bolts for the timing cover (m10x55mm fine thread). You also need a thermostat from a k24a2.
If you want to plug this hole for the miata water temp gauge, its m12x1.5 supposedly. I haven't tested a bolt in there yet though.
Here is a bad picture of the finished starter cutout. Your hole does not need to be this big.
Yanked the engine off the stand and got everything together.
Everything was going great, but it was at this point I realized I forgot the ******* flywheel cover. Pro tip, it goes on before the trans adapter. I wasn't pulling everything apart again, so I bent a tab and shoved it in. It won't win any beauty contests, but it's there.
Here is what the area looks like on the block you need to grind for the passenger engine mount. You have to take off more than you think. I also had to do some bolt finding, it was missing some mount bolts.
Here is the back of the engine mount. This is why you have to grind the block.
And now, its finally ready for install!
Thought I was clever and covered the clutch fork hole with the stock boot, then remembered the downpipe goes right there. So I built a plate.
Why are you using the stock timing chain cover? I thought with a K24z3 you need a custom chain cover (kmiata milled) for the installation of the front crank sensor.
Please excuse me if I missed something. I mostly look at pictures.
Why are you using the stock timing chain cover? I thought with a K24z3 you need a custom chain cover (kmiata milled) for the installation of the front crank sensor.
Please excuse me if I missed something. I mostly look at pictures.
I'm using a standalone race ecu that is compatible with the stock trigger system. EcuMaster EMU Black
In. Went in pretty well. Have a little interference with the passenger side of the subframe. It's almost like the engine is too far to the right side of the engine bay because there is a ton of space on the driver's side. I think I can solve it by grinding the subframe a bit, but we'll see.
Also, will need to trim my hood vents. Looks like just the one though. These are NC vents.
Grinded down the subframe. It's hard to get a picture of a gap, but there's around 1/8" clearance now. If I went any farther I would be getting into the weld. It still seem like the motor is too far to the passenger side.
I also cut the hood vent so it cleared the valve cover. I though this would be enough cut.
But it was still resting on the valve cover. I had to cut the vent out in that section and I added another rivet to hold it on. I also removed the brace that was still attached to the hood. It clears the vent now, but it is still hitting the hood just inboard of that.
01-06-2020, 11:23 AM
0
