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Old 10-19-2015, 09:26 AM   #381
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:43 AM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S View Post
Rutland Black Hi-temp stove cement.

Serious as a heart attack.

Ace hardware usually has it.

Amazon.com - Rutland Stove Gasket Cement Black 10.3 Oz Cartridge - Wall Surface Repair Products
I'll look in to that, thanks.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:15 PM   #383
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Definitely not looking for a track fix. I likely won't be doing any track days until this spring. Late spring post-graduation I plan on buying a second car, but I will probably resurface it and put in relief cuts before then.
OK. Your comments about manifold temperatures on the track made me think you were looking for a fix before an upcoming track day.

--Ian
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:31 PM   #384
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Toying with the idea of building a motor this time next year.

Right here, with just my lazy googling, I am at $1546.50. This is with 0 machine work, and I'm sure I am missing parts. I was just curious a rough idea. I have never had anything machined, but I'm guessing $500 would cover it? I'm at $2000. $3000 I can have it all done by Andrew and it shows up at my door. Decisionssss. Like I said, planning contemplating at least a year out.

Ebay Forged H-beams with ARP Hardware
$232

Supertech 84mm 8.6:1 Pistons + Rings (P4-MA84-N4)
$460.99 + Shipping
Notes: Also considering 11:1, maybe. Probably not.

Main, Connecting Rod, and Thrust Bearings
$39.71 + $26.91 + $10.52 + Shipping

ARP Headstud kit (218-4701)
$119

ARP Main Stud Kit (218-5401) ARP Main Stud Kit (218-5401)
$103.38

Boundary Oil Pump (Maybe? new OEM is $299...)
$399.99 + shipping

Ebay timing belt / waterpump kit
$59.95

Ebay Full Gasket Kit
$47.05
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:33 PM   #385
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Use weisco rings with the supertechs.

And get an MLS head gasket if you dont have one already.

Also cleaning and resealing oil pan.

New seals everywhere (because why not)

New intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.

Welding a fitting on to oil pan if you havent already.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:37 PM   #386
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Use weisco rings with the supertechs.

And get an MLS head gasket if you dont have one already.

Also cleaning and resealing oil pan.

New seals everywhere (because why not)

New intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.

Welding a fitting on to oil pan if you havent already.
I had a gasket kit listed but I guess I accidentally erased it. Updated.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:54 PM   #387
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Do not do cheap ebay gasket kit. I did that when I did my 1.8 rebuild and I have since replaced almost every main seal that is intended to keep oil inside the engine. Those crappy seals just do not last. I have had front and rear main leaks, cam seal leaks, and valve cover gasket leaks. The Ebay MLS headgasket has worked fine. I didn't use the ebay CAS oring, oil pump o-ring or valve stem seals and have not had a single issue with those seals.


There is nothing more aggravating than spending all that effort to rebuild and end up with an oil leak 6-12months later.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:06 PM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuyler View Post
Toying with the idea of building a motor this time next year.

Right here, with just my lazy googling, I am at $1546.50. This is with 0 machine work, and I'm sure I am missing parts. I was just curious a rough idea. I have never had anything machined, but I'm guessing $500 would cover it? I'm at $2000. $3000 I can have it all done by Andrew and it shows up at my door. Decisionssss. Like I said, planning contemplating at least a year out.

Ebay Forged H-beams with ARP Hardware
$232

Supertech 84mm 8.6:1 Pistons + Rings (P4-MA84-N4)
$460.99 + Shipping
Notes: Also considering 11:1, maybe. Probably not.

Main, Connecting Rod, and Thrust Bearings
$39.71 + $26.91 + $10.52 + Shipping

ARP Headstud kit (218-4701)
$119

ARP Main Stud Kit (218-5401)
$103.38

Boundary Oil Pump (Maybe? new OEM is $299...)
$399.99 + shipping

Ebay timing belt / waterpump kit
$59.95

Ebay Full Gasket Kit
$47.05
What's your goal for the engine?

I'd change that to Weisco pistons, ebay rods, stock main bolts (unless you are prepared to have the mains line honed for the studs) stock oil pump, mazda gaskets, ARP head bolts are optional. If you don't have a good calibrated torque wrench, I'd buy that instead of head studs.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:13 PM   #389
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
stock main bolts (unless you are prepared to have the mains line honed for the studs)

Why?
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:19 PM   #390
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Originally Posted by Rallas View Post
Why?
Why what? Why use stock bolts? Because they are plenty strong enough unless he's trying to spin it to the moon. ARPs are going to put more clamping force when torqued vs the stock bolts, so that means you have to line hone the caps with the studs installed to get the bores back in line. AKA machine shop work, more money in bottom end.
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Old 10-20-2015, 03:24 PM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallas View Post
Do not do cheap ebay gasket kit. I did that when I did my 1.8 rebuild and I have since replaced almost every main seal that is intended to keep oil inside the engine. Those crappy seals just do not last. I have had front and rear main leaks, cam seal leaks, and valve cover gasket leaks. The Ebay MLS headgasket has worked fine. I didn't use the ebay CAS oring, oil pump o-ring or valve stem seals and have not had a single issue with those seals.


There is nothing more aggravating than spending all that effort to rebuild and end up with an oil leak 6-12months later.
I agree with using OEM gaskets instead of eBay. I have had bad luck with random ones leaking on me. You should be able to get OEM gaskets from Rosenthal for about $75 for the motor. Use an eBay head gasket. I buy them around $26 a piece and usually buy a few at a time. Never had an issue with the head gaskets after being used on maybe 5 or 6 builds.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:41 PM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Why what? Why use stock bolts? Because they are plenty strong enough unless he's trying to spin it to the moon. ARPs are going to put more clamping force when torqued vs the stock bolts, so that means you have to line hone the caps with the studs installed to get the bores back in line. AKA machine shop work, more money in bottom end.
I'll look in to this

Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
What's your goal for the engine?

I'd change that to Weisco pistons, ebay rods, stock main bolts (unless you are prepared to have the mains line honed for the studs) stock oil pump, mazda gaskets, ARP head bolts are optional. If you don't have a good calibrated torque wrench, I'd buy that instead of head studs.
~350 street tune / ~250whp track tune would be what I would aim for I suspect. No crazy revs, probably stock rev limiter. I have a nice torque wrench.

I'll price mazda gaskets.
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Old 10-22-2015, 02:42 PM   #393
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Does the NB stock knock sensor location see oil? If so, I am 99.9999999% sure that is where my substantial oil leak is coming from. That's going to be fun to get to....

Also, I see everyone flaming anyone wiring their fans in parallel, yet I have been unable to find out how to set this up in Tuner Studio so far. Anyone care to enlighten me?
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Old 10-22-2015, 02:55 PM   #394
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Knock sensor does not have oil pressure behind it.

Not sure what you're asking about on the fans and tuner studio. Just how to setup the fans to turn on? Wiring the fans in parallel is a wiring job as the name says. Controlling them can be done however you want in tunerstudio.
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:32 PM   #395
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Knock sensor does not have oil pressure behind it.

Not sure what you're asking about on the fans and tuner studio. Just how to setup the fans to turn on? Wiring the fans in parallel is a wiring job as the name says. Controlling them can be done however you want in tunerstudio.
Well oil is coming from around the knock sensor somewhere.... not many other places above that it could come from. It is dripping on the the oil pressure sender. It's not the valve cover.

And I was referring to a checkbox like "turn on a/c fan with radiator fan". As in, a software solution to the requirement for parallel wiring. I know there is one to do the opposite, radiator fan on with a/c.
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:37 PM   #396
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Programmable on/off outputs?
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:03 PM   #397
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A/C fan always comes on with A/C. The other fan can be set with switch to also come on with A/C. Then the A/C fan can also be set to come on / off at the same temps as the main fan. Mission Accomplished.

Basic/Load Settings => Fan Control Fan On With AC On? = Turn fan on

Then, on my Basic MS3, under Advanded Engine / Programmable On/Off Outputs is the A/C fan control, sent to PA6 - Inj G. It is set for coolant > 207, Hysteresis 7

That is actually a 2 degree differential on temps. Main fan 205 / 198 and A/C fan 207 / 200.



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ITT we discuss why not to turbo your daily bent rod-80-basic_fan_ea5673789de198199a4fb96cd22b72ace790b733.png   ITT we discuss why not to turbo your daily bent rod-80-ac_fan_4093402a14d8aab1eae8fce902c8d5eb6b5cb769.png  
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:57 PM   #398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Programmable on/off outputs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
A/C fan always comes on with A/C. The other fan can be set with switch to also come on with A/C. Then the A/C fan can also be set to come on / off at the same temps as the main fan. Mission Accomplished.

Basic/Load Settings => Fan Control Fan On With AC On? = Turn fan on

Then, on my Basic MS3, under Advanded Engine / Programmable On/Off Outputs is the A/C fan control, sent to PA6 - Inj G. It is set for coolant > 207, Hysteresis 7

That is actually a 2 degree differential on temps. Main fan 205 / 198 and A/C fan 207 / 200.
Thanks to you both. I've updated my settings.

My car runs super cool (due to the incorrect thermostat I'm running. Long story.) on the interstate on cool days. On warm days it runs ~20deg over the thermostat. But in downtown traffic it has been creeping up into the high 220s low 230s, especially if the a/c is on. I had everything set up for both fans to run with a/c, but my thought is that they may only run with the compressor is on. I'm hoping that maybe this new Programmable i/o setting will help with that. In addition, if I cut a/c off, now I will have both fans helping cool things off faster.

Next step if this doesn't resolve it will be bigger (maybe SPAL) fans. I will be doing some ducting at some point, but probably not soon. In my mind that will be more track-oriented, because as I said, I don't really have much of an issue at cruising speeds once I get the car moving.

EDIT: Thermostat is 170deg. Realized I kept talking about it, but left that tidbit out.
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Old 11-05-2015, 06:51 PM   #399
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I went to install the exhaust brace I bought from FM, but it does not fit on my MKTurbo exhaust. Not worried about it, as I knew it was a risk going in. Made one instead. Works well, but I can definitely feel exhaust vibrations when decelerating and stuff like that. I have to drive on the interstate for a while tomorrow, so that should be a good test of how bad that is. I may end up adding a piece of rubber on the brace or something. I cannot move the midpipe now. But I have a flex in the downpipe, so I am not very worried about anything breaking.


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Old 11-05-2015, 06:53 PM   #400
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Normally the point of the downpipe brace is to support the turbo more. Yours just makes your exhaust vibe your tranny.

Also, bbundy had issues with the clamps like that breaking the pipe. too much stress in one area.
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