Scaxx

Lol I'll try to get a video of the noise, maybe a burnout down the road after the noise is fixed hahaha

Speaking of burnouts, yesterday, I dumped the clutch a little too hard trying to avoid the clutch noise and lit up the tires in stop and go traffic....two lanes away from a cop Luckily I didn't get pulled over haha

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i have a pile of 400hp axles from learning how much fun a 2nd gear rolling burnout is.

Scaxx

Haha that'll do the trick!

I've got a set of 10 year old 100TW tires (can't remember the name) that are about as hard as rocks from the blue miata. Figure'd I'd turn those into a smoke show one of these days lol

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Kinda sounds like it could be a pilot bearing too.

Scaxx

Yeah at that point I may as well replace the pilot bearing too since they're like $15. I guess I'll order some parts this week and start pulling the trans to see what kind of damage is waiting for me. Hopefully nothing too severe!

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

But get the $35 dollar one instead

Scaxx

I don't actually think there's a more expensive or higher quality one, that's the oem one lol. Since it's american auto manufacture oem quality, take it for what it's worth haha. Then again maybe I goofed the install or something. Either way, I have a new oem pilot bearing and throwout/slave in the mail today.

I also broke my seat belt somehow while installing the rollbar, maybe I dropped it and broke some internal structure or something. But basically I went to put it back in and the seat belt wouldn't come out anymore. I tried pushing on the locking mechanism a little bit and some of the seat belt came out and then broke it further lol. So I stole my passenger one for the time being. Yesterday I ordered a harness from Johnny and bought some tube to weld a harness bar onto the roll bar. Also bought some dual durometer rollbar padding and a couple tow hooks in case I do some lawn mowing at the track.

I was planning on building a cage before MRLS but I'm kinda thinking maybe hold off until after and just use the rollbar until then? Might be a little more comfortable to drive down there and I can invest in some other safety equipment like a HANS/Necksgen or a new seat.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

your going to want a hard top before getting a cage going. and thank you got the order.

Scaxx

My hardtop's just hanging out on my daily driver, haven't put it on yet haha, mainly cause I have a feeling the interior's gonna get really hot. I was gonna try to buy a ccp fastback, we'll see if I can afford it this year. Always wanted a fastback

Also, thanks for the recommendation Johnny!

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Just make sure the bearing has rubber seals and not metal shields. If it has metal shields, get the bearing number off the side and add "rs" to the number then search for an expensive one.

Scaxx

Interesting, I'll have to try that when this one comes in. Searching that using just the part number didn't seem to turn up anything

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Most cartridge bearings have a bearing trade number stamped/embossed on the seals/shields. Something like "6022RS" would have rubber seals "rs" or "2rs" while the equivalent​ shielded bearing would be just "6022."

No idea what bearing a 6022 is, just popped into my head, probably a bicycle bearing.

Scaxx

We got a winner!

Looks like the pilot bearing is shot. Tried to get another shot of it but my instagram story turned out to be the best one so there's writing on the picture. Input shaft looks to be undamaged which is good, that was the part I was worried about. My buddy had a pilot bushing weld itself to the input shaft one time. Which is fine when you can get transmissions for $200, it's another when they cost $2000.



Also finished all the welds on the umbrella stands today. This picture is before the bottoms got welded on and then in the next two days I'll start filling the bottom with some cement to keep weight down low.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i found the best way to get the pilot bearing out is with a hammer slide. i used the one from autozone worked like a champ. much better than the puller tool that sucks.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

If the pilot bearing is in the crank, instead of the flywheel. I have found the easiest way to remove it is too fill the cavity with grease, then hammer in a rod the same diameter as the I.D. of the bearing. Fill with grease again and hammer again, smoothly pushes it out. This is a super old school trick that works really well.

Scaxx

I was gonna use that trick but the ls has a water plug or some sort of plug back there which means it can pop that out instead. Saw a thread about someone that accidentally did that. Also saw a dude do it with a piece of bread lol. And yeah I'll pick up something to pull it out this afternoon, my parts come in today which is convenient. Gonna run down and pick up the tubing for my harness bar today, just need to make a couple notches and then pull the rollbar back out to weld it on.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it would have to be solid behind the bearing. Haven't seen that before.

Scaxx

Yeah I think it's just mainly with ls engines, hadn't heard of that happening before yesterday but I'm glad I did!

I forgot that tick always makes everything signature required so I missed the package with the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Not that big of a deal since I had planned on going climbing tonight anyway so I probably wouldn't have gotten that much done on it in all reality. I did pick up metal for the harness bar this morning and since I was waiting on a package for the umbrella stands I went ahead and got the tube notched and in place. I've never notched things without a tubing notcher so it was a little bit of a pain but I'll buy a notcher once I'm actually gonna build the cage. The tube is 5* down from the seat which is good. Gonna tack it in place with mig and then I'll clean it up some more before finishing it off with the tig. Harness gets here tuesday which is exciting!

Oh I also ordered another vband so that I can weld an open tip to it, the 2" nozzle is creating a little more pressure than I had planned, definitely not gonna be acceptable on track, I just hope the open tip isn't too loud.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

measure the angle from your shoulders, not so much the seat. it looks a bit low to me.

Scaxx

My shoulders are just below the bottom of the seat holes (what's the correct term for that?) where the harness goes, I'm super short at 5'6" but I'll triple check to make sure the angle is correct before welding. Maybe I'll have someone else check the angle while I sit in the seat, that way I know it's correct for sure.