I won the IRPerformance street motor mounts so I just installed those. My motor mounts were pretty bad so anything would have felt stiffer and balance the cars drivetrain in a way we're it wouldn't have mattered what type of mount I put in. It would all felt equal and amazed me how well it feels. I really did want the Mazda competition mounts but hey are 900 dollars shipped.



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

Today I was let aware by the pictures I posted of coolant dripping on top of the motor mount was installed incorrectly. The red bushing, bolt, nut was supposed to be underneath the subframe with the bolt gravity fed.

I also fixed a vacuum line that I had connected with a fitting to another line to extend the length to reach a port on the manifold with new silicone 3.5mm black silicone hose. I bought 10 feet of it for future fixes. I also purchased 7 feet of 6mm silicone hoses.


I installed a new start Lev-r cap for the AST.


And today I ordered new high rated 500•F rated rubber caps from McMaster-Carr for my new intake pipes.



How the motor mounts should be installed

Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

I changed out the plastic fitting going into the housing that twists itself to the heater core line running on the back side of the firewall. I believe that was the cause of the leak. I also replaced the 90* elbow hose from the bottom of the throttle body as well for good faith. I also burped the radiator system and added more coolant.

 

Just installed the HKS RS Intakes. I don't like the red caps that are high temperature rating.




DSC09474 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




DSC09483 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




DSC09488 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

So this is how I've been cooling the car down after driving it around town and park it in my garage. I see high temps when I come back to the car after going into a store but they quickly drop once I start the car. It doesn't run hot. Just sits hot at unsettling high numbers.




I have a 3 Fan set up. The 2800cfm air mover gets placed in front of the opening of the bumpers mouth, the white fan sits on the bumper mounts and in front of the intercooler while I remove the pressure chamber to the side to get air pushed under the intake manifold, then the oscillating fan to bow air to both of the other two. LOL paranoid yes. Getting the car to cool down faster, Yes.



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Starting to look like a professional lol



DSC09497 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Videos of this past weekends autocross at the Lake Tech center in Tavares

 

All 9s ngk plugs
Spark plugs were installed in January. I've done 4-5 autocross events, Deals Gap, mainly run on 93 non ethanol, use 20/50 idemitsu oil, and 1/2 oz per gallon of Idemistu premix on every fill up of 16 gallons. And HKS twin power


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Well, the car was towed to Kilo Racing and the motor is going to be rebuilt. I won't know exactly what the cause was until he finishes up a couple jobs. So when he's cracking open the motor, I'll make sure to take pics so we all can Oooo and awe.



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

well that sucks.

 

Oil is extremely sticky and it's accumulated and puddled a quarter size from the downpipe connecting to the midpipe.


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Bummer. Goes to show that even the cleanest, nicest, most well kept examples of these are horribly unreliable and live up to their reputation.

Still one of the sexiest cars though

 

I agree. I'm wondering how it happened though. Maybe the previous builder? Maybe it was me going top speeds? I don't know. But what I do know is it'll be fixed up and ready to enjoy again mid-September

 

 

Lol or like crazy eyes Steve buschemi when your rotors go opposite direction

 

Rofl


So guess what?!




It was the primary turubo oil seal that blew! Not the motor. So the motor is still pulled out of the car. Kilo says that I have a slight e shaft crank pulley wobble. Says the motor is fine for another 3-5 years. I'm sure I'll be back on this thread in 2 years saying the motor blew. We'll see.


So I just bought stage 3 BNRs for my replacement turbos. Stock setup. Flows even better then the 99 twins and 2x as much as the oem. Runs cooler and pushes out more power.

 

Well that's good news!!!

This thread still terrifies me...

 

Pictures of the BNR stage 3 twins:


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

 

Am i the only one that is confused about the path of exhaust gases through that turbo setup?

 

No.

Boost Control Info

--Ian

 

I still don't get where the air flows, but that is helpful in understanding how the turbos play together.

It looks like both turbo outlets to go the same place with no outlet. Must be some passages inside that manifold.

Funky.