What size is it? I might have a piece of pipe laying around.

I believe the stock nb2 maf is just a tad over 2.5"
somewhere between 2.6-2.75

It's an odd size. I will replace more than just the maf to clean up that whole elbow.

My main concern is the dyno. We shouldn't dyno on a restriction. Because 300 club.

Oh yeah, Richard we are supposed to coordinate dyno times so curly doesn't have to make extra trips.

We're working on that. ER needs to be booked a month or two in advance, and in a month or two from now we've missed zero to one month of track season.

I'll get it figured out.

Today I installed my Singular MS3 bracket. I really enjoyed this, and hope to do it again soon.

The CAN box for the ms3 presented somewhat of a problem. There's just nowhere to put it on the bracket. Gorilla tape was the only solution I could come up with that didn't involve disassembling things, drilling holes, and using tiny fasteners that I would have to go buy.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983





Tomorrow 7am greddygalant hit the Columbia Gorge for some break-in driving. For some reason I'm feeling the addition of Martin and Laz to this Sunday morning cruise has increased my LEO encounter probability 100 fold ...

Aidan, start us off a GoFundMe for bail, please :party:

I have no extra money for all that. I just paid my 93$ 65 in a 60 ticket I got in Olympia. Freaking bs.

My WB controller is fitted to the MS3 with velcro tape, that works a charm an looks good. Way better than the gorilla tape.... Maybe this would be a solution for you.

Which velcro tape did you use? The "Industrial Strength" velcro that I've used in the trunk has had adhesion problems, either with the whole piece coming off the surface it is mounted to, or the tape separating from the backing.

Gorilla tape, on the other hand, sealed the gap at the top of my radiator to the panel for a year, and didn't want to let go when I removed the radiator. That's a 200+F environment that sees moisture. So I'm confident the can box isn't going to fall down in front of my brake pedal despite the ghettoness of the solution.

Part of this mornings' drive. Sound isn't the greatest, sorry. Something in my trunk resonates which I'm going to go try and figure out.

I notice now with the oem coolant sandwich disconnected that oil takes over 3 minutes to get to 160+ compared to maybe 1:45 previously.

39 degrees outside, car start and cold start running were both fine.

Mobius, was the fix for digital WB-CAN output as simple as hook up the serial cord to the OUT terminal (I'm assuming you had it on IN)? MS3 w/CAN is replacing my MS1 and I feel like there should be more to it lol.

Build is looking good!

such a baller build.

I want to see what kind of gains just the CNC head gave you. And thanks for sharing some detail pics of the port job. I'm going to try to mimic that when I port my head.

Yes.


The rattle in the trunk was loose bolts for the shield for the fuel line. Removed! No more rattling.

So I'm up to like 350 miles now. That's good.

I totally recommend removing everything from the trunk. Maybe leave the spare if you want to.

Day before yesterday I went into the trunk to determine the source of the rattle you can hear in the video. I've had the trim out for a long time. I tidied up some wiring that I thought might have been vibrating. Then I discovered the bolts for the fuel line panel were loose. Rattling noise found! I went ahead and took that panel out completely. Then I put my laptop bag and tool bag into the trunk, and went driving.

Then ... yesterday I go to get my laptop bag. Trunk won't open. Interior release is loose, key turns, keyless release sounds like it's working ... but the latch is not releasing. I mess with it for a while, then do some research, and decide to go in through the front and unbolt the two 10mm head bolts that hold the latch in place.

So today that's what I did. Took the seats out, took the parcel shelf carpet out, took the parcel shelf out. Realize I don't have the extensions I need. Drove the car over to a local mechanic's shop, and Kurt was able to get the bolts undone. Trunk opens, yay. One bolt from the passengers' side, and the other bolt from the drivers' side.

Inspecting the latch, we discover it's missing a screw that holds the release mechanism in place so that it can apply enough force to actuate release. Dunno where that screw is. It's not something I removed by mistake because in order to get to it you have to take the latch mechanism off - the head of the screw is facing the rear of the car, it's on the inside.

So a giant PITA all around but it's getting resolved. I missed another CAVU driving opportunity, though.

Had I not removed that panel I would have been completely boned. We could not have gotten to the bolt. I'll post a picture of the screw location tomorrow.

+1 on break in drive video. :D

What was in your warm & delicious cup? Hot coco? :party:

This exact thing happened to me a few weeks ago. it took ALL of my extensions (both 3/8 and 1/2) to reach those 2 10mm bolts. maybe I'm missing that screw too.

Tervis tumblers ftmfWIN. They keeps the coffee hot, and they keeps the beer cold. My all-time favorite cups.

That cup contained Starbucks Pikes Place decaf. Made stronk, like the smell of Hustler's cycling pants. With half and half, and a shot of the heavy whipping cream, for the fully rounded taste experience.

Decaf so that when I actually drink Caf, I get ALLOFIT. KaPOW!

I can't imagine it's top down weather in Portland? Just flipped through the last dozen or so pages and I'm fighting the urge to go to the nearest doughnut place. All delicious fried food aside, solid car sir.