If you're serious about the Miata at buddy pricing let me know. I seriously whore these things out. I'm the dealership car whore. I lose money so the retail department doesn't have to.

I say this as a joke, but unfortunately it's not a joke.

Duuuuuude you're killing me. Where's the buttermilk! BUTTERMILK!!!
Ahh the tv hwy slums... It's almost been a year now...

edit: to the left there
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424463178

I was buying donuts to take to work. I skipped the fancy ones, too rich for my blood.

Carry on with sidetracks.

I view this thread not as a single thread, spun only by myself, but rather as a tapestry, a fabric, the whole cloth of which is woven communally by all of us together, enriching all of us in unforeseen and unexpected ways.

But to be on-topic for a moment, :vash::vash::vash::vash::vash::vash:

It puts the reroute hose on the reroute neck before it puts the engine in the car, or it gets the 3 hour hose job.

Oh my lord. The problem wasn't getting the hose by itself onto the neck, it was getting hose + any kind of hose clamp onto it. There's something right there on the back of the vvt head; there's just enough clearance for the hose to go on easily. Adding a hose clamp of any type requires compressing the hose on that side. OMG. I have paid the blood tax several times. Pictures in a bit.

Mother of god, I know your pain. When I put my engine in I got the hose stuck under the shock tower shelf and had to loosen the clamp on the back. We spent an hour trying to tighten the t-bolt clamp with a box wrench, then went to home depot and bought racheting box wrenches and that helped. I was really tempted to just take a hammer to the body back there when I had the head off. Thermostat changes are going to make me want to die.

FM's crossflow radiator has the radiator neck all the way at the very far left of the radiator. The 4.8L Tahoe hose wouldn't work for me, I need a straight shot up the side of the engine to the radiator neck.

So I spent some time hose hunting :giggle:

These are from O'Reilly's auto parts. When I go back, I will find and post the applications so they may be more easily found elsewhere. The parts cross-reference should get you to the right hose, but you never know.

They are McMaster Pro 21171 and 22080. About $34 with the $4 joiner kit.

Here are the two hoses I found:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1424492920

The long hose almost works by itself, but the 90 part isn't long enough to get from the waterneck to the side of the engine. The short hose, conveniently, has exactly the same angle in it as the longer hose, allowing for easy extension.

The part numbers, close up:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1424492920

I began by test fitting the small hose, and trimmed it for length.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1424492920

Then I overlaid the long hose and decided on my cut points for the joiner.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1424492920

And then, easy peasy, just like FUCKING MAGIC, the short hose is now Tbolted to the water neck in back. Like any good MT.net member, I solved my tightness problem with copius amounts of lube and repeated application of brute force. That's the coolant fitting for the OEM sandwich plate --> TB etc, and it is flush with the hose. If that can be removed, I recommend doing so, rather than capping it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1424492920

After that, the long hose practically installs itself, needing only a trim off the long end:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1424492933

I will pull the engine to change that thermostat. For Surrus.

Edit: if Curly installed that Tstat backwards I'm unfriending him on FaceBook. For reals.

Lol, a lot is riding on that 60 seconds of labor done while drinking beer number......3? 4? Yeah, 4.

Yes, and I was there ... I will still unfriend you though.

I was going to go out to the garage and, umm, "clamp my hose" but I've lost all motivation now that I've plumbed up the two new kegs.

I get nightmares that my tstat got installed backwards.

I had this same problem. Then I loosened the two bolts and pulled the spacer and housing off of the head a bit and the hose and clamp slid right on. Then i tightened the assembly back onto the head.

My issue with that was that the bolts were just as hard to reach as the t-bolt bolt.

Ah, yes, that would work but I also watched how the thermostat wanted to not stay in place in its groove, and had to be reseated twice, when Josh and I were assembling it on the stand. Wasn't going to go there unless I absolutely had to.

And that, yes.

If you use the self adhesive baskets you can use them to stick the thermostat into the spacer, for future reference.

What is wrong with a remote mount thermostat as long as you use normal thermostats? It takes me less than 5 minutes to swap a tstat (plus burping time of course).

I have an Mtuned reroute sitting in my workbench drawer. I wasn't going to run it without the BP26-10-271 head gasket also, so it sat there. Now that I had a chance to install a reroute and the head gasket, this CNC piece had appeared, and I like it for the following reasons.

1) the thermostat is attached directly to the head, and sees immediately whatever the head coolant temp is.

2) there's not a big dongle clanking around hanging off the back of the head that I have to secure.

3) with the dongle, there's necessarily a lag in that coolant getting hot enough to open up the thermostat. For all practical purposes, it works fine. But this cnc piece is simpler.

Plan for tomorrow, assuming no sweetie-pie interruptions:

Clamp up the upper hose
Install lower hose
route vac line to the MS3
ziptie all the vac line things
install fluids
verify some settings from Reverant for the 36-2 wheel

..........

Turn key and ... Profit? will make sure GoPro is charged and running.

You guys want Header Only for first start, right? :party:

I believe they have the Begi-style poverty reroute, rather than the balleur M-tuned we be rockin' :burncash:

The only BEGI part remaining on my car is the two-nipple vacuum port provider in the brake line.