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Molly 3.0

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Old 06-15-2019, 05:04 PM
  #61  
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Welp no Dyno yet, getting some smoke on long decel down to idle. Also having some idling issues while at operating temp. Hopeful its valve seals for the smoke, maybe its a coil on the idling like **** while its hot, as I am confused. Outside of that maybe ~100 miles on the build or so. Oil changes look clean, filter looks clean.. Im down in the Vlad backlog for a tune
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2019-06-15_11.55.17.msl (3.89 MB, 87 views)
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2019-06-15_15.19.16.msq (117.1 KB, 24 views)
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Old 11-30-2019, 11:40 AM
  #62  
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Looks like the smoke was a mixture of break in miles, excess fuel in the base map, and a coil that was on the way out, but the only thing I've seen coming out of the exhaust was some flames at full tilt.

Vlad has sorted this thing out up to the ~19psi map before winter hit and I started getting some big issues with traction, I'm curious as to what the BMW trans swap guys are using in virtual dyno, but here is a earlier street pull before Vlad pulled some fuel out up stairs..he still says there's plenty more but honestly that's horrifying to hear knowing there is another 7 or so psi on tap. I have a short downpipe on there now that dumps right at the end of the transmission, winter plans would be to move to a full exhaust and do some more suspension work.



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Old 02-02-2020, 08:35 PM
  #63  
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Slow Progress,


Pieced together a full exhaust, gave it a buff, extended lower ball joints, and converted over to the chase bays booster delete with wilwood brake bias




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Old 12-15-2020, 08:59 AM
  #64  
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Hello MiataTurbo world - I ended up buying this build from @Zsanz - Let me first say this thing was clearly well thought out and just as well built. He did this build with quality parts and an attention to detail and really put together one helluva Miata. I look forward to carrying on with this build thread and taking this car to the next level. Frankly, this car really doesn't need much (which is why I bought it) so I don't know how "entertaining" the rest of this build thread will be. I hope to, enhance the fit and finish, get this thing a bit more "road" friendly and get the suspension and stopping sorted out.

In no particular order - I'll be doing the following:
  • Getting speedometer/odometer spinning again
  • Upgrading brakes
  • Upgrading suspension/chassis
  • replumbing cooling to reestablish heat (maybe I'll go crazy and even try to get....a/c)
  • installing oil cooler
  • Slight NHV enhancements
  • reworking exhaust, wiring and other general "fit & finish" issues as I see fit

First things first the speedo - So I've researching my butt off to try and figure out a way to get my analog speedometer to work. I've seen NB speedo conversions but, me being a glutton for punishment, want to get my analog cable drive working. IIRC - With the ZF BMW trans and CTS diff both rely on ABS wheel speed sensors for speedo data which I can't really get from this Miata so I'll likely move to get signal from a hall effect sensor:

Prolly this setup in fact - (Greg Peters actually used these in his NB dash conversion - why mess with success THAT much) :

Hall Effect Threaded Body Crankshaft Position Sensor & Motion Raceworks 16 tooth High Def Driveshaft Speed Wheel
With this I can get vehicle speed info but then the question is what will I use to spin the speedo. I got pointed to the folks at Dakota Digital by a old school Porsche buddy of mine. I gave them a call (they're awesome btw - guy even stayed late to talk to me). Their tech folks seem to feel this is the best option:

ECD-200BT: Electronic Signal to Mechanical Cable Drive Adaptor



This coupled with a hall effect sensor and a little bit of wiring and setup should get me where I need to go. There's only one big question left to answer: Does my speedo cable work with this box? You see - the ECD-200BT has a Ford/GM Thread pitch 5/8" adapter. So my cable has to mate with this box or it doesn't work. If it's the same then I have a real chance of plug and play...if not then I have to get a custom speedo cable built that has the Mazda speedo side output and and the 5/8" thread-on input.

I guess if anyone here knows anything about NA speedo cables feel free to let me know. I'm still digging around on the internet to figure it out.

Lastly, the folks over at Dakota suggested I could get a custom cable built if it doesn't fit but I would like to use my OEM cable if it works out. If I get it and it doesn't...well I guess I'll have to order a speedo cable from one of their (or you - the reader's) recommendation.

I dunno if y'all find this kind of build stuff interesting but I sure do...
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