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Got all the oil and coolant lines hooked up to the turbo. They are definitely rigid with the black holders he provided. Also used a rubber wire clamp attached to the underside of the throttle body to hold the coolant hose so it doesn't accidentally hit the belt. I did it without at first but it was making me nervous. I think this will work well.
Spent the time installing the Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch. So the biggest bitch was getting the original rod off the clutch pedal. I was doing some kung fu yoga **** trying to get my head under the pedals as the original is held in by a c-clip that you can barely ******* see. Many swear words for that adventure. Thankfully the new rod with the Wilwood kit was 10 times easier to install than the original was to remove. Not sure on the adjustment so Ill have to revisit that when the car is running. On the BMW transmission the slave cylinder is on the exhaust side so had to be sure the secure the line to keep it as far from the exhaust as possible.
With the new master cylinder and clutch line the stock clutch hardline comes out. This is convenient for my needs because the remaining bolt worked perfectly to mount my remote setup for the oil pressure sender to the firewall.
Tentative fuel line routing. Not sure on this yet. I may get a 90 degree elbow on the 3 way so the main line isn't making such a broad turn in to make the connection.
Quick view from below. Should be enough room for the downpipe.
Well, judging from the other thread I just read there was at least one Tspeed downpipe completed but it went on Andrew's own car for a trip to the dyno. Sorry, Tony. Lol. I'm just poking at you with a stick, aren't I?
Sort of a slow day for me...lacked energy. Got the A/C mounted back up. Found a perfect size belt so I didn't even have to shim the compressor. Also mounted up most of the intercooler piping. Just need to drill the aluminum connector before the throttle body for the Idle Air Control hose and low down for the IAT. All the big stuff is pretty much on the car so the updates now are sort of on the boring side so I apologize about that. Gonna get the tires mounted and balanced tomorrow so those can be ready. We will see whatever small **** I come up with tomorrow. Sixshooter and RyanG are going to help me with some wiring at some point as I'm entering serious no mans land with that. I will likely start seeing about mounting the racepak dash tomorrow too. All the little things...
Only reason I'm not doing that to start is my potential future plans. If I K swap the car the flow will be reversed so for now Im going to tap it as low as possible. I know the reasoning and that ideally the IAT goes in the end tank but I'm going to try to avoid it at first. If it doesn't work then Ill accept the I told you so retard comments and will adjust as necessary. The connecting pipe starts near the sway bar so i think I can get it pretty low. We will see...ideally I know you are 100% correct though.
Only reason I'm not doing that to start is my potential future plans. If I K swap the car the flow will be reversed so for now Im going to tap it as low as possible. I know the reasoning and that ideally the IAT goes in the end tank but I'm going to try to avoid it at first. If it doesn't work then Ill accept the I told you so retard comments and will adjust as necessary. The connecting pipe starts near the sway bar so i think I can get it pretty low. We will see...ideally I know you are 100% correct though.
If you K-swap, just leave the original sensor in and add a new sensor to the driver's side. Then you can log delta-T across the IC!
You could also just leave it unplugged and add a second one (assuming plugging the hole isn't an option because of JBWeld). Better to have an unused $8 sensor hanging out than to compromise the sensor location.
You can easily just plug the hole later with a bolt or something.
Or add another and be able to see pre and post ic temps, which is actually really helpful.
But either way
I put my IAT in the coldside tank, didn’t make one bit of difference. Still heatsoaks like a MF on hot starts. I’m starting to think that sensor heatsoak has nothing at all to do with that problem.
Nonetheless, we have the same intercooler. It’s symmetrical. You could just flip it around if you decide to K swap. No plugging necessary. Your mounting position is mighty low, the stock undertray won’t fit. Maybe you have another plan though.
Really, IAT is most important at high boost. The sensors we all use work very well and read temperature changes quickly, that is why you want it in the cold side tank. Use IAT to prevent detonation under extreme conditions, not to idle in traffic.
I put my IAT in the coldside tank, didn’t make one bit of difference. Still heatsoaks like a MF on hot starts. I’m starting to think that sensor heatsoak has nothing at all to do with that problem.
That's another problem, likely injector heat soak. It would be that much worse if you had ait heatsoak too. Your problem is best remedied with a good tune. I might know a guy
I put my IAT in the coldside tank, didn’t make one bit of difference. Still heatsoaks like a MF on hot starts. I’m starting to think that sensor heatsoak has nothing at all to do with that problem.
Nonetheless, we have the same intercooler. It’s symmetrical. You could just flip it around if you decide to K swap. No plugging necessary. Your mounting position is mighty low, the stock undertray won’t fit. Maybe you have another plan though.
Low? Must be the angle of the picture. If you look at the side picture you can see it sits above the about the level of the steering rack or slightly above. Not sure where else you'd put it lol...any higher and its in the bumper.
I kept the factory bottom tray and air guide. If I were one inch lower, or one inch further forward, they wouldn't have fit. Of course, I didn't have A/C stuff to work around either.
11-07-2017, 08:36 PM
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