When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Exactly. Ill probably use foam on either side of the cooler around the plastic piece. Otherwise the inner upper portion of the bumper is completely open. When you look up all you see is oil cooler. With this the lower pressure above the cooler will draw the air across the cooler. Ill take a picture with the bumper off when Im done.
I want more dwell on my ign1a's, so switching to sequential while my MS is out. Need to change a jumper in there to enable the other spark outputs.
Just sayin'
The ABS sensor is a reluctor, it produces an AC waveform between the two wires. One of them is grounded inside the ABS computer, and the other one is the one that it uses to read the signal, but AFAICT it doesn't actually care which is which.
But seriously, the whole thing looks like just too much space between the upper V band and the bend downward. If it was roughly half inch further forward it would have cleared everything just fine. I guess we're just going to have to take a big hammer to the support shelf structure and to the footwell area beneath it because it doesn't fit there either. Or we could cut a half inch section out of the pipe and pay somebody to reweld it neatly and not have to hammer on or cut the chassis at all.
Some of what you see in the pictures has already been hammered substantially.
Put the hammer down and walk away from the car. IMO this has definitely arrived at a cut-and-weld point. I bet you could cut just after the v-band, get the dp swaged for a slip fit over the v-band side stub, and then tack it in place with an on-car fitment. The swage would allow for both a forward placement and some adjustability for clearance/fitment at a (minor) cost in efficiency.
I've experienced blowout past 20psi with LS coils before. I can't say for sure if it was due to batch or not, but since he's not in a huge time crunch and likes to do things the right way the first time..
Sixshooter or Tracy, can one of you throw a cell phone with an angle finder app on the downpipe and measure its rotation angle in relation to the turbo? Phone should be perpendicular to the car about in line with the #4 exhaust port. DP should sit at a 33-35deg angle down from horizontal.
Sixshooter or Tracy, can one of you throw a cell phone with an angle finder app on the downpipe and measure its rotation angle in relation to the turbo? Phone should be perpendicular to the car about in line with the #4 exhaust port. DP should sit at a 33-35deg angle down from horizontal.
So I did both measurements for you...So by your reference the downpipe is rotated too far out. I rotated the DP to the point of contact with the transmission and its at 54 degrees at that point. So clearly the distal portion the transmission is wider than the narrow portion on the miata box. The problem is as follows. I tilted the phone to the 35 degree angle and with the DP that I have that angle would literally put the DP into the engine block. Even with a miata transmission on the car the DP would be unable to make that measurement. The point of contact at 54 degrees is the middle of the transmission but here are two pictures with the DP at the 54 degree mark. That distance between where a stock miata transmission would mate to the block and the DP is 1cm. There is no way to get 20 degrees more rotation with my current DP even with a stock transmission in place. Maybe a few more but not 20. So I guess takeaway is that the TSE downpipe follows the narrower portion of the miata box to make its turn around the firewall. The challenges of changing stock parts. But just FYI as stated even with a stock miata box there is no way for me to get to 35 degrees with my current DP. So basically I need to modify this DP. Oh and the distance to the steering shaft at 54 degrees is 3 inches.
So I did both measurements for you...So by your reference the downpipe is rotated too far out. I rotated the DP to the point of contact with the transmission and its at 54 degrees at that point. So clearly the distal portion the transmission is wider than the narrow portion on the miata box. The problem is as follows. I tilted the phone to the 35 degree angle and with the DP that I have that angle would literally put the DP into the engine block. Even with a miata transmission on the car the DP would be unable to make that measurement. The point of contact at 54 degrees is the middle of the transmission but here are two pictures with the DP at the 54 degree mark. That distance between where a stock miata transmission would mate to the block and the DP is 1cm. There is no way to get 20 degrees more rotation with my current DP even with a stock transmission in place. Maybe a few more but not 20. So I guess takeaway is that the TSE downpipe follows the narrower portion of the miata box to make its turn around the firewall. The challenges of changing stock parts. But just FYI as stated even with a stock miata box there is no way for me to get to 35 degrees with my current DP. So basically I need to modify this DP. Oh and the distance to the steering shaft at 54 degrees is 3 inches.
My bad, I meant 35deg up from vertical, which is the same as 55deg down from horizontal. There's no way you are 20deg off.
The close-up of the photo next to the reference of the adapter plate is very telling, though. The downpipe is designed to wrap TIGHT against the block/trans at that point (maybe 1/8" max clearance). The instructions use the language "as close as possible to the trans without actually touching it". Yours is at least half an inch away (the thickness of the adapter), presumably because the body of the DP touches the trans elsewhere further down. It's totally possible that it may have interfered slightly with the footwell anyway, but there's also no doubt the BMW trans is exacerbating the fitment issues here.
If you think cutting the flange off and shifting the DP forward in the car would help with fitment, I'm happy to send another flange to be welded on so you don't have to try to reuse the one being chopped off. Shoot me an email if you want one sent out.
If you think cutting the flange off and shifting the DP forward in the car would help with fitment, I'm happy to send another flange to be welded on so you don't have to try to reuse the one being chopped off. Shoot me an email if you want one sent out.
I may take you up on the the flange. Worst case I can have the performance shop here just fab a custom DP for this setup as I have it. Having the flange will make that easier. The price of putting full custom **** on a car. I already passed the word on to David at KMiata that with the transmission swap your DP isn't a direct bolt on. He had inquiries on the matter. I don't think much modification will be required plus I have to modify the second piece anyways to make it clear the transmission mount. I appreciate it. Ill send you the email.
Got the ABS sensor mounted. Figured out where the cable went on a car with ABS and went straight through the stock location. One thing I figured out on the Racepak dash is it has the ability to read either a VR or Hall Effect signal. This is highly convenient so I don't have to use the Dakota Digital box to send the signal to the ECU and then from the ECU to the dash. One less step and makes things cleaner.
Appears to work when spinning the wheel by hand so just have to calibrate it when the car is moving. Also will be able to calibrate the gear selection as well so the dash recognizes what gear you are in based on speed and RPM. If this does all work like I think Ill have a Dakota Digital box to get rid of lol.
Started wiring the sensors to the dash as well. Going to run the wires along the firewall and through the hole on speedo cable once occupied. Picked up this heat sleeve from Summit to wrap around all the wires as they run behind the turbo. Ill fabricate a heat shield but this stuff is pretty nice and just one more layer of protection for the wires. Also put one on the turbo oil feed as well as the clutch line as they are both really close to the exhaust.
Also got my other two gauges wired up. Im really happy with the way things look. I really like the Defi boost gauge. Pricey little bitch but I like the way it looks and Im a tool like that.
Progressing with the wiring overall. Need to wire in the wide band O2 as well as the trigger wheel sensor. Trying to make everything clean and tidy so the wiring is taking some time. Pretty happy with it. Im off this upcoming week and am planning to have the car running very soon.
Can anyone help me with the pinout on the MS3 Basic from track speed? Im hoping Andrew sees this. On his site there are instructions and most of the wires/colors are described but the complete pinout doesn't really help me because the harness is covered so I can't tell what wire goes to what pin. Im trying to figure out which wires on the pigtail are CANH and CANL. Any help would be appreciated.
Correction:
Any help figuring out what all the wires are. The instructions on track speed don't really correlate with the harness I have. The wire colors aren't matching. Some are there and some are not so Im not sure how to go about figuring out whats accurate.
Most of the colors should match, but not every DB37 has every wire. 01-05s won't have a separate VVT wire, for instance. The white/black twisted pair is CANH/CANL, white is H, black is L.
Emailing me is always faster than waiting for me to reply here
11-27-2017, 09:32 PM
0
IMO this has definitely arrived at a cut-and-weld point. I bet you could cut just after the v-band, get the dp swaged for a slip fit over the v-band side stub, and then tack it in place with an on-car fitment. The swage would allow for both a forward placement and some adjustability for clearance/fitment at a (minor) cost in efficiency. 
