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Possibly the most dangerous phrase in all of project car things
Good progress! Did you do anything to attempt to flush potential chips out of the pan? I've heard of people using diesel or kerosene through the new fitting to try to flood them out, was curious if you were going to give it a try. Excellent work mang!
I ended up with a bit of shrapnel in the pan from the tapping. I think I was going a bit further between greasings than with the drill. I spent 10 mins or so jamming my pinkies in, getting all the angles, wiggling, and wiping, with and without grease. Did the q tips, with and without grease. I also blasted the outside with carb cleaner for a clean surface for the JB and gave inside a bit of a squirt, towards the drain. Once the fitting went in I put the drain hose on, jammed a funnel in and ran 2/3 of a gallon bottle of mineral spirits thru. Since everything was open I dumped a can of berryman b12 chemtool in the cylinders to soak through to decarbon the rings, and put a quart and change of oil thru the filler.
so hopefully that should take care of anything that may be in the pan. Once it is all back together will run it for a heat cycle or two with a sacrificial filter and then dump and refill and #sendit
I wouldn't worry too much about the drill shavings. Big chunks won't get through the screen, small pieces are still aluminum so shouldn't hurt the oil pump gears, and the filter will catch the rest.
I think my adventures with the oil pan were mainly caused by trying to start with a small drill and then step up in size a couple times. Since the drill was at an angle (didn't fit in the car straight) each step biased the hole towards the top. By the time I was done it was too high for the fitting to clear the AC bracket.
You did an AC delete, right? Why do you still have an AC bracket? That thing has gotta be several pounds of steel/iron.
I wouldn't worry too much about the drill shavings. Big chunks won't get through the screen, small pieces are still aluminum so shouldn't hurt the oil pump gears, and the filter will catch the rest.
When running thicker oil and you go to cold start, or during high RPM operation with thicker oil a lot of oil filters will actually have the bypass valve partially open and won't be filtering all of the oil because the differential pressure across the filter media is too high in certain situations.
@Ian, I did make a dimple with a 1/4" to get the drill centred. But went straight from dimple to big ****.
AC is still installed, was just dropped down for access. Is now all buttoned up and back in place. It doesn't work since I went haltech, but it is there.
Arca_ex, I think I'll definitely be running some feather weight oil for the first fill to make sure it splooshes out of the drain. get that exit velocity up out the drain! I still have shitty sintered oil pump so hopefully all is well anyways.
I'm sure you'll be just fine either way I was just pointing out that relying on the filter to catch stuff like shavings can sometimes backfire. After a lot of reading on BITOG and seeing test results I was surprised at the differential oil pressures across filters in normal operation and how often they must be going into partial bypass.
Thanks for the reassurance. I figure first run I'll put the lightest/cheaapest mineral I can get through it anyways, less viscous will blast out the drain easier and carry more **** out. Just has to survive a heat cycle then put something better in it to actually drive on. Probably back to my Brotella T6 or something similar. Streetkor.
I'm at work today, so today's update is brought to you at time and a half #fuckyeah
Capped off the oil cooler
It became apparent I was gonna have to yeet my intake to get in there for the oil tee
Some swearing later
What an "unpleasant job". Note the new GTX PCV on the valve cover.
Was about to screw the tee in and thought, I wonder if I need Schmoo?
Consult the searches, both here and tweedwearersdotnet, seems this is the sauce to use - permatex 59214. pic taken so I knew I bought the right ****.
So after that little detour I put the schmoo on and screwed the adapter in,
Not pointing at anything, just holding the house out of the way. That there is my Mazda bosch sensor
Note, the haltech adapter does not seal on the washers I bought, The sensor taper at the bottom, bottoms on the adapter to seal. light dusting of schmoo for safeties.
Added the 4AN-NPT adapter
You kids don't understand - back in my day the turbo DRANK FROM THE HOSE
Then I went in the house and got my auto elec on
**** me, bosch EV1 pull to seat stuff fucken sucks. Whoever invented pull to seat, insert favourite punishment here.
No pics of that one
This here is the bosch connector from corsa technic
This here is a borderline illegible note for self later cos I won't remember how I wired this.
I'm sure this complies with no rules whatsoever but I heatshrank that ****
Dummy fitted to the sensors, then a nublet of shrink to bind them, then put on some wrap.
The wobble on the knock sensor connector does upset me but that glue filled heatshrink ain't coming off, so it is what it is.
The way i did this was buy a 2 conductor and a 2 conductor shielded wire. Cos it is nicer than anything I could do, and the knock sensor needs to be shielded anyways. I will put a heatshrunk drain pigtail on the ECU end when I get to it. Next step was to run it to the ECU.
The grommet that existed was too snug, I could barely fit the MAP line through it
So unbolted the fuse box and used my HF close quarters drill and a step bit and bored that hole out. I'm sure a hustler's mum joke would be appropriate here but this does predate my membership on MT
Put a wider grommet in and fed that **** down into the cabin
Now, as the oil line needs to exit to the rear this means the oil pressure sensor has to face the front, which is indeed dumb, so routing is not ideal.
New miata sized oem filter on there for first flush, from when I bought a pile at Priority. I will be moving forward to the 626/millennia sized unit from here. Have a new wix 51356 for first real fill
At this point I put the manifold back on and was working on installing the utter slunts of lower nuts when I realised something while gazing up from underneath with my wrist pretzeled
Forgot the OEM oil gauge sender.
So back off, put that ****** on, then back together
Reassembly in progress. I ended up installing the fuel rail and TB and got it back together with the exception of reconnecting the fuel hoses. I wrote on them with liquid paper/correction fluid "F" and "R" and who'da thunk it, fuel is a great solvent and stipped it off. I think from mammory that the rear hose went to the front pipe but will do some reading before I plumb it wrong
Also this, for my own reference
I installed my injectors in the order they are on the card, so I can input the individual values into NSP. Cos I can. I have a laptop on order, will be here in a couple of days, will do that then.
Also, I think i worked out why my VSS never worked with the haltech
From the base map sent by haltech for the NA 1.8
Pin B9, SPI 2
from the QSG for the PNP box/harness
Pin B8, SPI 1.
when the wheels go back on will test this function.
Plan today is finish work and get a cheap oil for the flush
can get a 0-20 in synth but I am too cheap for that, for something that will be in the crank case long enough to warm up and burp the radiator, so a 5w20 dino will be the go I think Supertech @wallyworld, don't let me down!
Last edited by msmola2002; 11-21-2021 at 12:54 PM.
Dunno about the earlier manifolds, but I find that with the NB ones it's easier to get the lower intake manifold nuts from the top. There's juuust enough room to slide your hand in between the chassis and the manifold, and you can improve that a bit by unbolting the motor mount (the single nut at the bottom) and putting a jack under the oil pan.
On reinstallation, I put the nut in a 12mm extended socket with a big gob of grease to glue it in and played braille and poked around til I got it on the stud for 3 of them. One of them I couldn't find it so ended up poking it on from underneath i think. All i know is that I was tired and pissed off. I dread revisiting this for the DBW conversion. Oh,the one above the starter, the socket and expension combo was a poofteenth too long to get the socket on so I cracked the ***** and used a par of vice grips on my extension to nip it up. It was 30F and about 1110pm by this point.
Also - tool of the day for yesterday was a telescopic magnet pick up tool.
My handwriting is utter dogshit. Any smaller and it is even more illegible than it is now. Will get a few easy ones off there and try and make stuff more logical/ordered
Originally Posted by joe morreale
This is what my fat arm looked like after going after the lower manifold bolts, from up top.
Got some **** done but not as much as I'd like, hit a few walls
Upstate NY weather has not been helpful, to say the least.
Plugged away at some little jobs. And on thanksgiving had a little accident while trying to prime the oil line with no plug leads attached, resulting spark causing a small fire and had to unload an extinguisher, then google "clean up ammonium phosphate dry powder fire extinguisher" turns out warm water with bicarb, soak then hose off. Not a great day at the office, and let us never speak of the 'mishap' again, but keep an extinguisher nearby, and pull the CAS plug.
Also looked at the front and saw the intercooler was not fitting nicely due to nose boop from PO
So pulled the bumper off in preparation for a day of foul language Friday.
So black friday, brown santa brought me some pieces
And I ate a snacc
At this point I confirmed cluth master was definitely leaking so I gave 949 some money and bought a new clutch slave, and i have a spare exedy master I got from ridethecliche but i am concerned the brake fluid is under my carpet, so will need to pull that up soon and have a loook
Since I was paying for shipping from CA, I black fridayed some ORANG and got a full set of 4 949 racing sway bar endlinks
Did some futzing around and chased stuff down like vac hoses for BOV and boost control stuff, and **** like that.
Saturday - daylight postmortem of mess we are dealing with. had already notched the latch bracket and lars said to just werf it anyways
Quite the gape
Witness marks on the plastic bumper support where hit has moved ****
Slide hammer a go-go, making **** worse
**** may be tinfoil but damn it was not liking to pull out. I drilled out the 2 creases where it had been hit and pried the dents out and tried to pull the front back
At some stage a mat russell bar is in the works but not jsut now
Ratchet strap round a tree providing tension and pulling
About 10 mins in started to get ringing, so got out earmuffs.
Sorry, ladies, I am taken
bent the PS tubing pipe as much as possible - still mcfucked
About where I quit.
And the ****** was still rubbing
So at this point Something had to give. Daylight burning and I was hoping to drive this shitheap into the barn this weekend.
I cut the pipes
And spliced in a vato zone micro PS cooler
like 26 bucks later. If I had the time to go deeper, I'd be trying to loop some lines and depower my rack, but this was the easiest button to pull. Long term I'd like to depower and EPAS but that would be a big expense right now I'm not in a position to do. This gets the car steering operational and an intercooler fitting.
another shot, can see how the nose hit has pulled the ends forward on the hit and left a gap on the outside. fucken POS.
fat hand, little cooler. Would prolly be better to mount horizontally but seemed to sit nicely vertically there so that is how she went.
Dreading finding a hole in that mess to thread the IC plumbing thru - another place manual steering would help
I
It fits, I got the clearances.
Inlet pipe.
So, as i had a nice GFB BOV, I asked lars to do a little custom ****, and he welded on a piece of 1.375" tube instead of the BOV flange as per the regular kit. As he is not a mind reader and does not know where my non standard **** will sit, he gave me a decently long piece to deal with. I dummied it up and trimmed half an inch off, and used my "jobber-do" (https://www.baccus-enterprises.com/a...s/show/6489012) to crimp a little bead on it.
Assembled
Well, sans some clamps
Spent some time trimming the elbow from this to the TB, and adjusting reroute rad hose stuff so it all plays nice.
Sunday spent much of the day cleaning up round the house and clearing out the barn
there was no way the thing was gonna drive in under its own steam with a hotside installed, so cut losses and get it in the barn with its shitty non flat dirt floor. That is the choice. Bitumen, kinda flat and snow, or dusty grotty dirt floor but no snow.
Playing with turbo stuff, trying to work out WG stuff
So, the play is use the gold bracket and notch out the mounting hole, the 2 port WG and the silver threaded end. Got it.
then got all 4 wheels on, down on the ground, put the old JR header on with 2 bolts and dumped out another litre of coolant for the dog to drink, and fired the thing up. **** me, a straight piped BP sounds like ****.
Drove it into the barn. Bled the PS so can cross that off the list then topped it off.
Home for the next 4 months or so
Need to get it off the deck, and get the clutch stuff sorted as it is delivered tomorrow and probably easier before the trubo goes in. And see how the carpet is. If it is soaked, i think it will be hot water in a spray bottle and lift carpet and spray it all out then wet vac out the water and fluid from floor pan and do that til it is gone.
Cos i am not pulling that carpet out from under the heater.
may I instead offer you a peppermint Aero in these trying times?
How do I get on this mailing list?
I'm glad we've finally passed over to #TeamMint season. All you weirdos can suck it and wait for another 11 months until your inferior PSL comes back around.
Yesterday had a bunch of non-miata stuff to do around the house and did an oil change on the missus' crosstrek. Fun. edited out my address from the shipping label
Got some bling in the mail. Raceart BiLlEt purp MAC valve bracket. Absolutely useless, and silly money for a bracket when a piece of bent metal is $free.99, but treat yoself I guess. Was about 3x what I paid for the mac valve from circuit se7en. Yikes. I legit feel kinda bad about this one and have a little buyers remorse. Like, I love it, but **** me that was silly.
That evening I got the miata off the deck. Jacked it up and got the rear on stands and the front up on the escos. Not easy witht he broken up dirt and bitumen floor. The jack won;t roll and that means the car wants to slip off the jack. Not fun and not the safest thing in the world, but it is up now and that is where it will stay til spring, pretty much.
Then I watched the bathurst 1000 on a pirate stream
Here, enjoy an echidna stuck on the track that caused a ful course yellow. Good race, but stayed up til like 330am watching it so that meant I sleot in and had a late start today. Wack.
I went to work on the clutch hydraulic stuff. Dropped the slave to drain the line then removed the master which as expected was moist on the back.
So then pulled out the drivers seat and lifted up the carpet
Soggy *** underlay, with brake fluid. Pulled as much off as I could
bottom of the carpet is wet with fluid, all over hte plastic sheath stuff
can see the dribbles behind the insulation
out came the 1.5L pump sprayer, usually used for simple green for the dirt bikes
Filled it with hot water
rinsing out from the clutch hole
Hell yeah brother!
Emulsified brake flud.
groce
After blasting thru 3 full fills of hot water thru the hole, all up the fllor and over the back of the carpet, much of it drained out the holes I drilled in the floor ad I am not responsible enough to own a converitble and leave the top down. Then Blotted up as much water as I could and put a heater in there to dry it all out. Slow going as it is 2c/35 freedom units.
After this I had a snack break
Aldi *****,
After a refreshing mint stop, I bench bled the master, installed it and filled with some fresh pentosin dot4. crawled under and installed new slave. Oh, and whatever braided line I have has a ******* 11mm hex head on it. 11??? seriously? Ugh.
I let it gravity bleed but I got impatient so found some tube and sucked on it like there was a golf ball in a garden hose. then let it drain into a bottle for an hour before dragging the missus away from my 600lb life to bleed it.
Next step was remove passenger seat and deal with the rats nest behind the passenger seat. ECU, PNP box and a foot of wiring harness, WB box, OBD dongle, and broken wires. So, plan shifted to addressing that mess. So spent an hour or two in the house sperging over what I need to make a plate/bracket to attach all that **** to and get started on some wiring management. So ordered some 1/32 ally sheet and some U channel, rubber trim and m4 cap screws to attach ECU.
I could literally pick all this **** up at Lowes Racing tomorrow but have a feud with the local store over a botched kitchen install and repair so **** em, they can ship it all, pay for shipping and the store gets dick out of me. So more to come with that. I need to do some wiring repair but may as well wait til I can get the plate/bracket made, then go from there. So back to the turbone(r) install in the coming days I guess.
11-16-2021, 10:22 PM
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