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Old 01-28-2018, 12:13 PM   #1  
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Louisville, Co
Posts: 70
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Default Mudflap's race to empty pockets

Figure I'd finally get around to posting my build. Hopefully I'll be able to get inspiration and advice from some of you gurus.

Step 1. Buy an '04 MSM knowing absolutely nothing about these cars.
Step 2. One month later have a mechanic tell me that I have rod knock. Many $'s later I get it back on the road and have a blast with it.
Step 3. MS3PRO - tune it and spend the next couple of months enthralled with how fun and frustrating this thing is (the megasquirt).
Step 4. Push the little MSM turbo to 11psi. Getting 220 lb/ft and 200 hp (dyno'd, corrected for 5500ft). Not bad. But not terribly interesting.
Step 5. Buy 2560 and FM kit to install it all. Now I'm getting somewhere. Feels more like 230-240hp.
Step 6. Take it to the track. High Plains Raceway. Start spewing oil out every orifice.

Question #1. This engine ran fine at 8psi and 11psi. But at 15psi I'm seeing tons of blow-by. I've got oil showing up in the BOV, bottom of intercooler, EBC, inside the wastegate actuator. I put in a catch can and filled it halfway in about 30minutes of driving. QUESTION: Is this indicative on blow-by only? Could there be another source of the leaking? I pulled the motor and I've got the head off and everything looks great. I did a leakdown test and was at like 40-50%. ugh.
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Old 01-28-2018, 03:30 PM   #2  
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So I bought a very blue VVT from a guy on here. He had done a lot of work on it - so I figured I could just drop it in. Wrong. Why do I always take the most circuitous route to get to my destination? I ended up just taking his engine totally apart. Along the way I discovered worn bearings and scuffed and worn pistons.

So here is what I've done to the VVT:

Block apart. Cleaned. Decked. Bored to 84mm.
Head apart. Cleaned. Surfaced. Valves ground, valve seats ground.
ACL main and rod bearings
Manley Rod little end bushing replaced and resized (too much play)
Supertech 9:1 pistons (84mm)
Crank ground down 0.5mm
Rotating assembly balanced will be with new ATI damper and level2 FM clutch

Next up:
Port and Polish the head
Port match the intake to the head
TSE EFR 6758?

Question #2: I want to go 3" on the exhaust. What is the current thinking on who to help with that?

Thanks for reading!

Last edited by Mudflap; 01-28-2018 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 03-19-2018, 09:11 PM   #3  
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Louisville, Co
Posts: 70
Total Cats: 28

Long overdue update and sob story.

TSE EFR 6758
Artech 3" exhaust
ATI Damper
Level2 FM clutch

Engine is totally stripped down and repainted the same powder blue color as the manifold and valve cover. I've got my wiseco pistons rings gapped to around .0185 on my 9:1 supertechs (84mm). Rod and piston assemblies are perfect and ready to go. (Note: I replaced my Supertech rings with the wiseco.)

Next, off to measure the crank main diameters and check the gap.. install 0.02" oversize ACL race bearings, torque standard main caps down to 65ft/lbs. OK. Now measure the gap using some plastigage. It measured 4mils. WTF? So I measure the bore gauge of the mains and it is nearer to 5mils. On a gap that is supposed to be 0.8-1.4mils. HOLY ****.

The bottom end had been line honed by my shop. The crank was ground down to a very precise 1.9467" across all 5 mains. The bearings are the oversized (0.02") race ACL bearings. The bearing hole size is 1.952". That's a .0055" gap! So the only thing that could have done this is that they over honed the mains in the block.

Can't make the mains hole smaller, right? Or can't make a crank larger in diameter..

So far the shop has had the block for 2 weeks and I've called twice with the same "we can't get to it just yet". Let's just say I'm concerned. Anyone have any advice for the 'attitude' I should have when speaking with them?
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