Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 846525)
Do you have pics? I am interested in the M-Tuned rail only because I know it will fit (after trimming) and it won't require me to get anything fabbed-up. I'm trying to minimize cost on this car because I just dropped $250 on new window regulators and $100 on a battery.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 847451)
Lets talk about reliability problems. I bought this car in 2007 with 86k miles. It looked bad. I've already replaced every hose in the car now this week was rough.
In a span of three days I had some problems: Broken window regulator dead battery dead ignition switch dead window switch bad "new" window regulator tragically leaking rear caliper and now today, on the way to work, broken header. I think its time I pulled the engine and swapped-in the swap motor, but money is the problem. Its time to do it right if I'm going to keep it, I cannot afford to buy a nicer car so we're going to keep this one. |
Old cars. Crap breaks. You work on the old, broken stuff or you pay big bucks to get newer (hopefully not broken) cars.
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Yeah, I know this stuff happens. However, its a bitch to do so much work on such an ugly car. I'm totally out of money now so I can't buy a decent roller. When MS2 gets here I'm going to take a week off from work and probably swap engines then. It will be a new car when I'm done but man, try hitting me at a harder time. So much for tracking my car this year.
Its really funny how I dropped cash on MS2 and then suddenly everything on the car falls apart and the car turns into a huge mess. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 847457)
broke rear subframe
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your parts car needs a parts car
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Has anyone ever run a VVT engine on a factory computer off a CAS? I may swap engines as early as this weekend and I do not have a computer yet.
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Should run fine, may lose a little torque down low. Make sure you set the static spark advance so that you don't get any pinging from the 10:1 compression ratio.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 847553)
Should run fine, may lose a little torque down low. Make sure you set the static spark advance so that you don't get any pinging from the 10:1 compression ratio.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 847565)
Does anyone have a wire-wire color list for wiring in the 2001 coils? You are dealing with a full-on retard here. I also need some dwell numbers for the future.
EDIT. Here is a link to info on dwell timing and such that Y8s found for me, because I am a lazy ----. |
What is the best route to go for spark on the VVt engine in my 1994? I have coils for the VVT engine, but then I don't have a tach. If I get a tach output on the computer, do I have to wire-in the new tach output or can that be taken care-of on the MS2-Miata conversion harness?
Right now I think it would be best to keep the factory coils, but I don't know how or where to mount them. Thoughts? |
If you ditch the 94 coils, it is no problem at all with the MS2 adapter harness.
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I assume the MS2's that Reverant makes would include the tach-out circuit built in. So it would all be handled by the adapter harness. It is simply hooking up 1 wire from the MS to the white/black wire in the stock harness.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 847626)
If you ditch the 94 coils, it is no problem at all with the MS2 adapter harness.
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 847628)
I assume the MS2's that Reverant makes would include the tach-out circuit built in. So it would all be handled by the adapter harness. It is simply hooking up 1 wire from the MS to the white/black wire in the stock harness.
A big problem for me is a sad one, I don't really know how to read a wire diagram. I need to figure this out, fast. It's a good thing I bought that 2001 engine harness a few months ago. I don't know how to look at each wire on either wire diagram and know which wire goes where. I have to figure this out for the CAS-CKP/CMP conversion which must take place too. I know you posted that somewhere, I'll find it and add it to this thread. I read through that thread you linked and I still don't know what my dwell settings should be because I'm reading settings and measurements that I don't understand. I also don't know which amperage number I should use for MS because although I assume MS2 uses the standard 12v number, I'm uncertain. |
For later:
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 779640)
The VVT plug has 2 wires, Purple and I believe Yellow-Purple. Basically you hook one of them to the same 12v wire on the CAS plug that you hook the cam and crank 12v to. Then you run the other VVT wire back to your MS.
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 777449)
95 CAS sensor Plug Colors
Yellow/Blue - Cam Signal White - Crank Signal White/Red - Power Black/Light Green - Ground 99 Cam Sensor Wires White/Red - Power Grey/Blue - Cam Signal Black/Blue - Ground 99 Crank Sensor Wires White/Red - Power Grey/Red - Crank Signal Black/Blue - Ground So to hook the NB Sensors up to the NA wires you need to do the following. Black/Blue from both Cam/Crank plugs goes to Black/Light Green White/Red from both Cam/Crank plugs goes to White/Red Grey/Blue from Cam goes to Yellow/Blue Grey/Red from Crank goes to White https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1317303831 For VVT you run one of the wires to the White/Red wire on the CAS. The other wire gets ran back to your MS connector. I am not sure how Reverent will have you hook it up, but he should be able to give you more details. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 847630)
right, but that means I have to add it to my task-sheet.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 847630)
I read through that thread you linked and I still don't know what my dwell settings should be because I'm reading settings and measurements that I don't understand. I also don't know which amperage number I should use for MS because although I assume MS2 uses the standard 12v number, I'm uncertain.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 847649)
Realistically you don't need to add anything to you task-sheet. When you get your MS2 from Reverant you should be able to plug it in and if you are using the 01 coils you should get a tach signal fine. I just do not know if he adds in that wire by default on the ones he builds for 94's.
Having said that, I don't wire the output on the 90-95.5, unless I have reasons to, like with Trey's unit. |
Thanks guys. It looks like I only have one unknown yet and that's the wire conversion for the coils. If anyone has this data, I'd love to know which wire goes where.
thanks for building my car for me. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 847654)
The tach circuit is built on ALL the MS2s I build, as I use the tach signal with my expansion board.
Having said that, I don't wire the output on the 90-95.5, unless I have reasons to, like with Trey's unit. Do you have any clue what would happen if you wired the tach-out output up to a car that also has the coils driving the tach?
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 847671)
Thanks guys. It looks like I only have one unknown yet and that's the wire conversion for the coils. If anyone has this data, I'd love to know which wire goes where.
thanks for building my car for me. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 847681)
Do you have any clue what would happen if you wired the tach-out output up to a car that also has the coils driving the tach?
Meaning that you can either get a non-working tacho, a proper working one or get double RPMs, VTEC yo. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 847685)
Either a synchronicity event or a resonance cascade. Just a matter of luck really.
Meaning that you can either get a non-working tacho, a proper working one or get double RPMs, VTEC yo. |
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