This is MSII isn't it? you can blend MapDot and TPSDot. might help you get the best of both worlds.

Or just tune EAE and forget about MapDot/TPSDot.

I'm running both MAP and TPSdot. When I go to EAE, I get this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1334231615

EAE is disabled on the Enhanced ECU to make room for more features. I have yet to find a Miata where TPSdot doesn't work well.

Thanks. I work on it again when I have the will to jack with cars again. I'm trying to pace myself for the VVT swap next month.

99 T-body and IAC are working for the first time in years). TPS is acting strange though after calibration. If there is something wrong with this TPS, I'm going to cut a bitch. It randomly oscillates between 0-3% without touching it.

Any tips before I start reading on closed-loop idle control for the AC cycling on and off?

0-3% is too much. On my car it oscillates between 0.-3 to 0.2 or so. I've actually never seen it play so much on any of the cars I've tuned.

Any issues with the AC?

Y ah, the car dies when the AC cycles. I need to read more.

Idle advanced helped a little, but now I'm in a mood where I need to go to the gun range.

Does your IAC actually work? If so, there is a table which you can manipulate to add more duty cycle to the IAC valve when you switch the AC on.

Well, it hums and seems to work. I've been adjusting the idle-advance table/curve and it's better but still not great. I think it's livable now so I can tolerate it.

Can some of you guys get stock-like AC engagement and cycling? Part of the problem is that I don't know how good it can get.

i have stock like idle with a/c.

this is an old log. it's a little better now.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334366459

I'm pretty jelly, mine chugs and dies. The biggest problem I'm enduring is that one adjustment in the idle settings makes no change in the idle of the car. No matter what I set the PID delay to, no even with 20* of spark advance, no matter how low the PID interval, or how high the PID controller gain, the idle drops to ~250rpm, chugs, and sometimes dies as the AC cycles. I'll figure it out eventually, but there seems to not be much discussion on this so I'm going to have to figure it out myself.

I just gave up on the AC idle sittuation and had to go back inside because I was really losing my temper. I just went back to what Demitris sent me and I'll start from scratch tomorrow., again.

Send me your current map to have a look at.

No matter what I change, the idle is still ---- when the AC engages.

This ---- about to come the ---- out of my god damned car. I'm pretty much over wasting hour after hour after hour trying to make the god damn car idle with the ------- AC.

What happens to the afr? How about electric loads?

Give me a few days to get back, I'm away until Monday (orthodox Easter).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1334445098


I'll live, I'm just venturing into unfamiliar territorry and irritated because I'm enduring one of the worst allergy "attacks" of my life and throwing a temper tantrum. I just pulled abscessed skin from my eyeball, lol.

What does the "AC Idle up" duty table do? First of all, it says its in C* but the cursor/following green dot makes me think its in F*. I adjusted that table, trying to figure out what it does, and nothing seems to change. I know there is a correct formulaa here, I'm just don't sure what it is.

The AC idle up duty table is what the ECU uses to open the idle valve more when you switch on the AC. Try increasing the values there, say from 10 (from what I can see in the log) to 13 or 14.

its getting leaner when you switch it on too...i realize the rpms dropped, but maybe add more fuel in higher MAP ac/idle areas