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Check for vacuum leaks for the RPM being high. I don't have much experience with the pedal/throttle stuff, I've just noticed that they never seem to quite report what I'd expect.
Also be aware that the LFX has cat light off - so it'll run super rich and higher RPM for the first 20 seconds or so to heat up the catalytic converters. Idle will lower after 30 seconds or so, faster if the coolant temperature is high.
0x7E8: P0010 - Intake (A) Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open (Bank 1) (Permanent) - doublecheck your wiring here.
0x7E8: P0097 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit Low (Permanent) - same.. although I think this should be in the MAF(?)
0x7E8: P0627 - Fuel Pump A Control Circuit / Open (Pending, Current, Old) - ignore / disable - since you don't have a fuel pump control module, shouldn't matter.
0x7E8: P062F - Internal Control Module EEPROM Error (Permanent) - ugh.. okay, this one is annoying, possibly made worse by crossing the streams between HPTuners and EFI live. It's basically saying there's a checksum value that's failed. I don't think there's any way to "fix" it - if it was OEM the fix would be to reflash the entire thing with the GM software.
0x7E8: P0807 - Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Low (Permanent) - ignore / disable.
Quick question.... does the ecu need to get constant power from the battery even when the car is off? I saw an HPT thread mentioning that you can reset fuel trim values by disconnecting the battery.
So if I am using a battery disconnect and killing power to the ecm when not using the car, am I always resetting the fuel trims? Is this bad?
If you do not have a constant 12v then it will have to re-learn the fuel trims every time you drive it after it has set for more than 15 mins or so. The impact of that can be minimized by how well your open and closed loop tuning is, but it will make your life soooo much easier if you allow it to maintain 12v and keep the LTFTs.
Hopefully that makes sense...
Do you not have any relayed outputs for your ECU, Fuel Pump, O2s, ...?
If you do not have a constant 12v then it will have to re-learn the fuel trims every time you drive it after it has set for more than 15 mins or so. The impact of that can be minimized by how well your open and closed loop tuning is, but it will make your life soooo much easier if you allow it to maintain 12v and keep the LTFTs.
Hopefully that makes sense...
Do you not have any relayed outputs for your ECU, Fuel Pump, O2s, ...?
Got it, thanks! I have relayed outputs, I just set it up to kill everything drawing power with a disconnect and I use it anytime the car is sitting. So I'll change that asap.
Does anyone know what this plug is? Can't figure out where it goes for the life of me. Wire colors are: 1) black 2) baige with white stripe. The connector is purple and blue.
If the next end down (very last on that leg of harness) is to the secondary O2 sensor, than I believe that connection is to the transmission, towards the back. I don’t know what the sensor is for, but those were the same color wires and connector on my stock harness and I’m almost certain that’s where it connects. (Yours is very different than mine, and hard to trace from picture.)
btw...been a little while since I’ve been online, but Congrats on getting the engine started! Sounds awesome!
If the next end down (very last on that leg of harness) is to the secondary O2 sensor, than I believe that connection is to the transmission, towards the back. I don’t know what the sensor is for, but those were the same color wires and connector on my stock harness and I’m almost certain that’s where it connects. (Yours is very different than mine, and hard to trace from picture.)
btw...been a little while since I’ve been online, but Congrats on getting the engine started! Sounds awesome!
You rock, pretty sure that is it! No wonder I couldn't find it though, on my MV7 that is just an empty hole. No connector for the plug anywhere to be seen. Guess it is GPS or nothing for vehicle speed with an MV7
VSS sensor for the MV7 is on the passenger side. On the MV5 that might be the trans temperature sensor. VSS sensor and temp sensors are gonna be 3 pin though.
Edit: might be wrong. Pin 9 black connector is Tan/White is the MV5 trans temp sensor.
VSS sensor for the MV7 is on the passenger side. On the MV5 that might be the trans temperature sensor. VSS sensor and temp sensors are gonna be 3 pin though.
Saw your edit. Thanks! So no trans temp sensor on the mv7.
Tan and white is definitely it.
Is there a way to tell in HP Tuners if my long term trim is being saved or erased when I power down? I believe I have everything wired up correctly, but I'm curious which wire controls the power to the ecu memory. I have an small red 12v acc wire and large red 12v battery wire on my engine harness from keisler. The 12v accessory wire (when off) is not allowing me to connect to the ecu via the obd2. I figured with the main power wire getting 12v I could still connect. So now I am questioning whether or not the ecu is getting power where it needs so it does not turn off and forget everything.
I'd check your 12v constant with a multimeter while the switch is off to be sure but you will not be able to connect to the ecu, and the obd2 will most likely not have 12v until the ignition is on.
I have not found a way to easily see that the LTFT has been saved to memory.
I'd check your 12v constant with a multimeter while the switch is off to be sure but you will not be able to connect to the ecu, and the obd2 will most likely not have 12v until the ignition is on.
I have not found a way to easily see that the LTFT has been saved to memory.
Awesome, okay thanks! It is definitely getting 12v constant, just wanted to confirm that is what keeps the ecu memory saved.
Found a loose ground for the engine, so going to try and start it up again and see if that fixes any issues when the kids wake up. This car is not nap time friendly.