Need More Towing Power........
03-12-2014, 11:08 AM
#62
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Got my head back from the machine shop. Had a 3 angle valve job among the normal cleanup and surfacing. I'll have to get pictures later.
Only thing I've worked on lately was a KFX400 sport quad. The intake valves had cupped so I replaced them with Kibblewhites and put in the thinner DRZ-E version base gasket and a shorter 2009 header pipe. Runs much better and actually starts now (intake valves had no clearance so it would not electric start)
I did pick up a Tial WG locally for $60 Canadian. Its the older F38 but for that price its great. It'll be part of my custom manifold build. Leaning towards Artech for that.
Only thing I've worked on lately was a KFX400 sport quad. The intake valves had cupped so I replaced them with Kibblewhites and put in the thinner DRZ-E version base gasket and a shorter 2009 header pipe. Runs much better and actually starts now (intake valves had no clearance so it would not electric start)
I did pick up a Tial WG locally for $60 Canadian. Its the older F38 but for that price its great. It'll be part of my custom manifold build. Leaning towards Artech for that.
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03-21-2014, 08:39 PM
#63
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So to save money, keep decent pedal feel and hold a 300whp Miata I'm planning on adding an ACT 6 puck clutch to my existing ACT HD PP.
Thoughts on this in a daily driver?
If it helps I have Delrin diff mounts and mazdacomp motor mounts as well.
Thoughts on this in a daily driver?
If it helps I have Delrin diff mounts and mazdacomp motor mounts as well.
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04-04-2014, 02:41 PM
#64
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Not much progress motor wise. I'm installing some small side skirts. In preperation for this I decided to do so some more rust protection. Being in Canada and wanting to drive in crappy weather with no fear it's best to proactively protect a 12year old car.
Pulled right front fender, sanded any small rust spots where the 2 lowest bolts were, etch primed and sprayed rocker guard. Then I taped off a few cm below where the skirt would mount and primed and rocker guarded. I had some missing paint at the first divot in the rocker just at the front of the door. That ridge catches debris and had worn down. The rest of the area was in quite good shape with nicks but no rust which is amazing for a Canadian car that was reportedly driven in a few winters before I got it (had over 200,000kms on it when I bought it) I also noticed some rust on the leading edge rail as it curves up, so that got primed and guarded. This way when I mount the skirts I wont have to worry about whats going on under there as that area will be hidden. Skirts also protect that area from abrasion but debris can possibly pool under them so my process adds peace of mind. I have to drill a few holes in the rockers to fit the skirts. When I do a mix of summer chainsaw bar oil and motocross bike air filter oil (tacky, sticky thick mix with rust additives etc) will be sprayed all up in the holes and as far as my wand will let me poke in both directions, this will coat the internal steel. Yes it will drip for a while and on the first hot days drip some more but its worth it. Especially if I park at work . I'll have to make a cardboard floor for a few weeks. End result - no rusted out rockers for me, hopefuly for a decade (decade pronounced like someone from New England)
Pulled right front fender, sanded any small rust spots where the 2 lowest bolts were, etch primed and sprayed rocker guard. Then I taped off a few cm below where the skirt would mount and primed and rocker guarded. I had some missing paint at the first divot in the rocker just at the front of the door. That ridge catches debris and had worn down. The rest of the area was in quite good shape with nicks but no rust which is amazing for a Canadian car that was reportedly driven in a few winters before I got it (had over 200,000kms on it when I bought it) I also noticed some rust on the leading edge rail as it curves up, so that got primed and guarded. This way when I mount the skirts I wont have to worry about whats going on under there as that area will be hidden. Skirts also protect that area from abrasion but debris can possibly pool under them so my process adds peace of mind. I have to drill a few holes in the rockers to fit the skirts. When I do a mix of summer chainsaw bar oil and motocross bike air filter oil (tacky, sticky thick mix with rust additives etc) will be sprayed all up in the holes and as far as my wand will let me poke in both directions, this will coat the internal steel. Yes it will drip for a while and on the first hot days drip some more but its worth it. Especially if I park at work . I'll have to make a cardboard floor for a few weeks. End result - no rusted out rockers for me, hopefuly for a decade (decade pronounced like someone from New England)
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04-25-2014, 01:37 AM
#66
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Just took my 2nd headlight apart fresh from the oven. Going to look great having the black headlights on a Yellow NB2.
Thanks to 18psi's post on this planting the seed.
Thanks to 18psi's post on this planting the seed.
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06-27-2014, 12:20 PM
#67
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My Eibach Valve springs are here, and my manifold / DP is starting to look good. Here is a preliminary shot of it
Otherwise the car is dusty as I have many other labours to perform and I've been trying to enjoy the outdoors. If there is progress, I'll post it as always.
I did pick up some DW 600cc injectors, and a TDR 3 guage angle panel. Sold the RX7 550's and think the DW's will be a decent upgrade. Not so much for the 50cc bump as the more modern design. My 6 puck sprung clutch should be here in 2 weeks then I'll take that, the crank, the PP, damper etc to get balanced. Once that's done I might as well start building the bottom end.....unless it's a really nice day out. Sad but true.
Otherwise the car is dusty as I have many other labours to perform and I've been trying to enjoy the outdoors. If there is progress, I'll post it as always.
I did pick up some DW 600cc injectors, and a TDR 3 guage angle panel. Sold the RX7 550's and think the DW's will be a decent upgrade. Not so much for the 50cc bump as the more modern design. My 6 puck sprung clutch should be here in 2 weeks then I'll take that, the crank, the PP, damper etc to get balanced. Once that's done I might as well start building the bottom end.....unless it's a really nice day out. Sad but true.
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07-24-2014, 04:32 PM
#73
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I asked Abe to add some tubing post DP for my needs. This is where it will tie in to my existing 3" exhaust. I'll slip fit it or buy a coupler clamp until I can take the whole car in to get it welded. I don't like leaving my cars with people as I have trust issues with shops. I really don't want them driving it at all ever. Is it even possible to use those Harbour freight (Princess Auto in Canada) expanders on a 3" stailness pipe - will it budge ? Not Abes pipe but my existing. Its always better to make the downstream connection the female.
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Something like this to get my by if I don't flare for slip fit.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Something like this to get my by if I don't flare for slip fit.
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07-24-2014, 04:39 PM
#74
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PS. - Question on exhaust mounting/bracing ?
Yes I know Abe's stuff is super solid but I've been thinking about adding the FM exhaust brace to take load of everything. I like their bracket but I would use my own clamp as their clamp is just a U-bolt style and that puts too much load in one area I think. Is this overkill for a street car ?
Yes I know Abe's stuff is super solid but I've been thinking about adding the FM exhaust brace to take load of everything. I like their bracket but I would use my own clamp as their clamp is just a U-bolt style and that puts too much load in one area I think. Is this overkill for a street car ?
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08-13-2014, 03:30 AM
#76
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Installed a Walbro 255. Decided to cut and solder original wiring onto female spades instead of ordering the Walbro harness. Used the Weller pencil iron I picked up at a garage sale for $5. Works so well I instantly cooked white/burned a patch on my middle finger. Once done I pumped the remaining 8 liters of 3yr old gas out of the car. Yes it's been that long........sigh.....
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09-17-2014, 01:00 PM
#77
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Artech parts showed up - looks great. I'll get pics soon.
Crank/FW/PP is at shop getting balanced
I still pose this question:
Question on exhaust mounting/bracing ?
I know Abe's stuff is super solid but I've been thinking about adding the FM exhaust brace to take load of everything. I like their bracket but I would use my own clamp as their clamp is just a U-bolt style and that puts too much load in one area. Is this overkill for a street car ?
I'm also ordering their Level 2 clutch accessory kit (release bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool) so I can get the stronger Throwout Bearing I want. $80 for the kit. They don't sell the bearing separately.
Crank/FW/PP is at shop getting balanced
I still pose this question:
Question on exhaust mounting/bracing ?
I know Abe's stuff is super solid but I've been thinking about adding the FM exhaust brace to take load of everything. I like their bracket but I would use my own clamp as their clamp is just a U-bolt style and that puts too much load in one area. Is this overkill for a street car ?
I'm also ordering their Level 2 clutch accessory kit (release bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool) so I can get the stronger Throwout Bearing I want. $80 for the kit. They don't sell the bearing separately.
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09-17-2014, 01:48 PM
#79
I always prefer to run a brace, though some have advised against it. just make sure the brace keeps the pipe completely neutral and doesn't pull or push it in any direction or you'll get cracks within a week.
as for that slip clamp thing: they really suck, so I guess it will work for temp solution, but no way I'd run one long term
as for that slip clamp thing: they really suck, so I guess it will work for temp solution, but no way I'd run one long term
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