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Old 09-17-2014, 06:41 PM   #81
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No GM here, that was a pic of my minivan


Thanks, the pictures of Artechs stuff (coming shortly) really show how amazing his work is !


I will use a slip-clamp for the exhaust brace but only temporarily for the exhaust joint. I'll try to get the exhaust welded once get it running
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:22 PM   #82
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I was ordering the brace today from FM but noticed it fits way back on the rear of the tranny by the PPF / driveshaft. That would be also after the flex joint I have in Artech's DP. I think I'm better off having it near the bellhousing and so should just make my own.

Thoughts ?
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:39 PM   #83
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[QUOTE=miatauser123;993381]Installed my Quik-Latches this weekend – And my new throw out bearing.

So I now have the FM level 2 clutch with a custom 6 puck ceramic sprung disc. While I was swapping the clutch in I decided to replace the throw out bearing. BIG MISTAKE. Turns out the FM level 2 comes with an upgraded bearing that is intended to take the abuse of the serious pressure plate that they include.

This was a brand new OE bearing after about 100 miles:



Thanks to the guys at Flyin Miata I finally tracked down a bearing and here is the difference.





------------------ End Quote --------------------------------

Thanks to Dem posting this above a while back it got me thinking. So then I also ordered the Stage 2 throwout bearing ($74.95). I picked it up yesterday, it definitely looks stout and being where it is I don't want any reason to take the tranny out after its all put together. Now I'm confident that I have the best part possible in that area.
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Old 02-04-2015, 02:07 PM   #84
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Adding some sound deadening. Believe it or not it also helps the floor not rust as it creates a watertight seal from "foot drippings". I had a 1987 16V GTi with a rusted out floor from wet footwear.
As far as sound deadening in a convertible.... hearing others reviews on this and it being a DD and with some of the driving season using the Hard top I thought I'd put a few bits of material over the floor and rear and fuel area and see what happened. Used a type of peel and seal and some Reflectix - both bought in the US for half of CDN prices. By the time I was done we had some good coverage. I had Reflectix going from the foot well all the way up to the tank, etc. after a minumum single layer of P&S was all over the foot well flats and up a few cm on the sides.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]



This area got stuffed with Reflectix and then it had even more covering the entire access panel from the roll bar up. The panel itself was coated thick with rockerguard and a thick layer of Herculiner as well.

[IMG]

I have a hard time sneaking down to the garage and not having some followers. She loves to be in the car and likes to climb. She has never seen it as more than a garage queen - it's been that long since I drove it. And speaking of that I'll have no way to compare the sound deadening to the original because I can't remember that far back......lol....

Maybe I'll put up a video sometime of the Bieber Baby song going with my 2 youngest daughters dancing as best they can in the car. (No drivers seat in there right now) It would really help the Miata stigma.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:56 AM   #85
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After researching I decided to remove the oil squirters. Replaced them with some M10 X 16mm bolts. Threads in the block only go down about 12mm so I ground down the ends of the bolts slightly. Red loctite'd them in.



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Old 02-17-2015, 01:27 AM   #86
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Drilled and tapped the forward most bottom fender bolt after it snapped off. Started on the herculiner rocker guard rust protection project on the drivers side. Remember we shouldn't see the herculiner at all since small side sills will be going on one of these days.

I guess the fender bolt photo didn't make to to photobucket ???

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Old 02-17-2015, 01:32 AM   #87
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"I can't believe it's a girdle girdle" - anyone remember those tv commercials ?

So a ways back I remember someone, maybe Sav mentioning that the 2001 and up bearing girdle or MBSC would not fit directly with the ARP studs/nuts.
Some said toss it and some said mod it. I wanted to keep it so I went about drilling and cutting. I sure love using those ti-plated step drill bits. Once I get a pilot hole those things seem to cut through anything. Holes needed de-burring with a grinder and then a dremel to gent into the 2 middle spots.










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Old 03-04-2015, 01:58 AM   #88
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This was 5 years ago, oh how I want to drive it again....... can't wait! Hopefully in time for when the snows gone in 60 days or so.
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Old 03-06-2015, 02:01 AM   #89
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Working on the head. Put all the new Eibach valve springs in place. Now to set the lash. I'm going to lightly torque the caps and then check clearance. Since a 3 angle job was done and some corresponding valve stem material removed I'm not sure what the specs will be.



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Old 03-06-2015, 03:13 PM   #90
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Issues - tried the exhaust side and smallest shim in have which measures on digital calipers 3.18mm is still much to thick. Even with my smallest feeler I have (-X.XX) clearance.
So it's either shims or grind stems. Advice?
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:09 PM   #91
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Took some measurements and I would like to test with these sizes.
I know the Nissans come in .05 increments but the Mazdas are a lot closer. In bold is about what I should need but I'd like to try either side of that in 2 steps. Seeing if local people have some to test with before I buy the proper ones.

Intake:

2.90,2.95,3.00, 3.05, 3.10

Exhaust:

2.35,2.40,2.45,2.50,2.55
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:40 PM   #92
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I'm digging the Yellow NB w/ hardtop - Yellow is usually not something I +1 on lol
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:09 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
I'm digging the Yellow NB w/ hardtop - Yellow is usually not something I +1 on lol
Thanks, it's grown on me as well.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:11 PM   #94
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Crank and rods torqued to 60 lbs. Checked the rotational resistance at each step. Felt good for never having prepared a passenger car motor. Waiting on shims now for the head. Move on to my BE pump now.


s
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:18 PM   #95
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Start wiping the dust of these any week now

o

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Old 03-10-2015, 08:43 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
Crank and rods torqued to 60 lbs
You torqued the rod bolts to 60?

--Ian
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:55 PM   #97
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Yes as per some posts from Savington who I trust. In order to get proper rod bolt stretch he needed 55-60ft lbs.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:57 PM   #98
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No one uses gaskets on their turbo to manifold flange.

Do people also not use a gasket on the older 2 bolt Tial wastegate flange that I will be running? I see that Kinugawa has a nice 4 layer steel gasket. I just wonder if heat will take its toll on them much like the manifold gasket ?
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:32 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
You torqued the rod bolts to 60?

--Ian
Now your making me 2nd guess and nervous.
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:50 PM   #100
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The instructions that came with my Carrillos (I think they were ARP bolts, but don't remember) said to use a stretch gauge and torque them to a specific stretch length (IIRC it was 0.004" to 0.006", and I targeted the center), with a not-to-exceed torque value. I'll have to go look up the exact values, but IIRC the not-to-exceed was around 40 and mine hit the proper stretch in the low 30s.

60 for head and main studs sounds about right. 60 for rod bolts sounds like a LOT. They aren't that big.

--Ian
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