Landrew

iTrader: (2)

I hope not but maybe. I have no leaks and the clutch arm moves fine back and forth.
I'll have it out tomorrow maybe. (shifter, & driveshaft were out today)

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Clutch disk fused to flywheel. When i peeld it off it left 4 chunks from 4 pucks behind.

Can someone tell me if this will always happen when hooning (2nd gear donut) or is this a rare occurrence. Any other disks you can recommend for for a 300hp build. I like the holding ability of this 6 puck but it was a bit grabby. I'm being being a bit picky as my wife was driving it fine so I could go back to one but full modulation would be a nice bonus.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

That disk looks like it has carbon fiber or kevlar friction pads. You want ceramic or cerametallic. You should be able to take that disk to a clutch shop and have them install new friction pads.

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

<p><br />&nbsp;</p><p>FM lvl2</p>

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

The FM2 is what I'd like ideally. Waiting for a deal on one.

Replacing the pads - I didn't think about that.......

I still have the original disk from ACT so I might run that until I get things sorted. I'll keep upping the pressure until it slips. I'll be at 15-20 psi in a week or 2 so well shall see.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Here's the damage.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

The friction pads now look cerametallic - bizarre. And you did a clutch break-in?

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

I broke it in for over 750km. My wife drove a bunch of times as well. It never slipped as far as I could tell. Grabbed very well and consistently until this.

The ACT disk is in now and I'll watch the classifieds for an FM2.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Drove with the full disk tonight. Feels much better as far as ability to modulate. Put in the 12 psi spring and also made a DIY version of the Beatrush PPF brace. Mine is basically one bar at a 45 degree coming off the PPF/Diff going to one side of the NB2's rear subframe brace. It accelerates hard now and feels very connected. If I try gently I can feel/hear the rear ends teeth engage/coast but otherwise I just feel more amplitude of the drivetrain as road speed increases.

Since I pulled the DP to pull the tranny I knew this would be an easier method for the WG springs than in the car method. BTW when I picked this up for $80 CDN I knew it was in rough shape and some cap threads were stripped. My solution was long screws and nuts. Holds fine and is repeatable.



At 12 psi the car feels sooo good. 3rd gear has to be done gingerly around corners and it just keeps pulling. Feels like it could boost sooner but I'm still rich and safe as far as fuel etc settings are going. Plus I need to hook the MBC back up.

Flushed the rear ends brake fluid with more Wilwood 600 PLUS and the right caliper had some air. Got that out and the brakes feel better and just keep getting stronger. Only have about 900km's on new front Wilwoods, and lots of that is highway so not much brake use in total.

I'll be tempted to put the small 4 psi spring in there as well and take it to about 16psi but for now I'm keeping it the same. I don't want to do a clutch job for a long time. It wasn't bad but it wasn't that fun either. I'll be saving for an FM2 now.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Oops,

Duplicate post so here is a beautiful placeholder to remind you to enjoy every minute of summer you can.....

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

I also did the NB heater door flap mod to get colder air into the cab. Yes I'm in Canada but I still want it cooler in the car sometimes.

I must say that V-Bands make hotside work so much better. Still a bit of aligning to do but once its close they just cinch up. It's nice to have them connected and still able to rotate as well before final tightening. If your thinking V-bands wait and save for an extra month or 2 or 3 and do it for your next build. So nice. Artechs stuff was and is worth what I paid for it.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Was in on a group buy for the Garage Star door bushings. After installing them I definitely notice that door rattles are gone. Everything seems tightened up. I would recommend these. The difference is very apparant and I would not want to go back to the OEM bushings. I just have to remember to close my door harder. Twice now I've found it slightly ajar after driving with the top down (since.the added wind noise is not noticeable being topless)

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Lots has been happening lately to the car just lazy in posting. The most recent scare was yesterday when it sounded a bit rough and I know I had been driving it hard / high boost here and there. It sounded very metallic and resonated through the block so I assumed a bad rod bearing. Revved it and the sound stayed. I was like nooooo, not a rod issue, please noooo. Stuck my face closer as maybe it was valve train related but it still sounded to much for that. Then I remembered that the VVT pulley/actuator had a minute bit of play so I thought I'd unplug the VVT solenoid and voila - no more noise. Such a relief, huge!

Installed 12 and 4 psi WG spring together making about 15psi. Loved it and clutch held so its been permanent now.

Installed a ebay fake Turbosmart MBC. Boost shot to 22 or so then the car would cut all fuel spark and come back to life. I couldn't wrap my brain around while driving so I played with the MBC lines etc after stopping at side of road. Then I figured its way to digital to be mechanical and yes after looking at Tunerstudio and doing some KPA/PSI math my KPA limits were to low for 22 psi. Changed those and in 1st, 2nd and most of 3rd it just spins. Then in 4th the clutch spins etc. I love the power but don't want to damage the clutch so I'm back to the old brass MBC and 15psi.

FM Level 2 on the list this winter. That power was addictive.

I'm also getting lots of AFR variation so I need to double check the grounds. Basically it can run steady for a while then randomly shoot from a cruise of 15.5 to 12 then to 14 then 12 maybe a blip to 16 then 12 again. Then it might go away for 15min then maybe come back. Quite annoying. Nice that it bever runs lean under boost when it goes mental but still not good.

I get some visible rich smoke under boost. Not oil but fuel black color. All cylinders were consistent during a compression test but the tester is a cheapo. I only get 160psi which is really odd but perhaps the gauge is very low. Or I have some ring issues??


Even with the big magnaflow (no CAT) I get drone withe the hardtop on. Not sure what the next step is. Probably a variant of the Vibrant resonator installed ??

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Not sure if I am getting spark blowout causing my rich AFRs (among other things) but either way I ordered some BKR7EIX plugs. Loving the US again as I got 4 of them for 21.90 US shipped to my door from Amazon.com. You can't even behold them with the naked eye for under $12CDN a piece up here.