<p>Idk, i get a lot of weird errors with bluetooth. And they actually use a different RS-232. The megasquirt uses the 9 pin 12v rs232 standard where that bluetooth chip looks like it uses 3v. This is the cheapest bluetooth solution I've found:&nbsphttp://;http://www.msextra.com/forum...22&amp;t=43883</p><p>Overall I just prefer usb for the reliability.</p>

 

Cables it is! I ordered a bunch, lets see if I can **** this up.

 

I bought 3 or so different versions of the super cheap otg cables from amazon to drive my Nikon with my nexus 5. Everyone of them worked. It's pretty simple as they just put in a different id resistor I think. As far as shadow dash, well I'm no help there

 

<p>Shadow Dash for logging. MSDroid for tuning.</p><p>You can log into shadowtuner.com on your phone and upload logs.</p>

 

What sorcery is this?

 

Ok, maybe one of you guys who is smarter can look at this and tell me where I done goofed something up.

Attached:

• StupidTune.msq - my current tune
• StupidStart.msl - "cold" start log
• StupidIdle.msl - idle once its warmed up

StupidStart isn't as cold as I'd like it to be, but it was a warm day today. Note that near the end of the log my ADD got the better of me and I changed my target idle from 950 to 850. I probably shouldn't have done that while logging but oh well.

The idle log shows that other than some lean tip in when reved, my idle returns and AFRs are stable once warmed up. Scary stable if I'm honest.

It should be noted that I am a hack when it comes to this stuff. Please provide constructive criticism where applicable. TIA!

 

So in the last 7 minutes I did all these things:

Go outside and start car, idles at 15.6:1 - lolwut?
Install COPs and start car, idles at 16.8:1 - um, okay...
Reinstall stock coil pack and start car, idles at 17.9:1 - ¿Qué?

So the good news is the COPs work. The bad news is my car is really shitting the bed when it heatsoaks? I'm rather disturbed that it started doing this just now and never gave me trouble before. Now I has a sad.

 

<p>Only difference is injectors right?</p>

 

As of when? Injectors were installed week(s?) ago. I DD'd it for 2 weeks after the injectors went in. I've changed nothing in the last week or so, I just sat down to dinker with the startup timing thing we all discussed on the last page and I started getting this lean idle restart crap.

 

Ok I lied, I switched from my LC-2 over to a MTX-L. It was several days ago and its the same sensor. I did the free air calibration and everything.

 

I always have heat soak for 5 seconds or so on a hot start. Goes away the second I drive/blip the throttle though. Not sure it can be easily completely eliminated.

 

<p>How long does it idle at not 14.7 And is it idling rough? Or smooth?</p>

 

Idle is fine, just a little bit rough, but nothing worth mentioning, usually for around 5 seconds or so then it pulls back to stoich.

 

<p>Lol, meant to ask G. But Jeff thats nothing to write home about. Unless it ticks your OCD I'd ignore it.</p>

 

Sorry, I missed this...

It goes nuts as soon as ASE shuts off. This is coincidentally almost exactly how long it takes for the wideband to warm up and start reading.

In the log where its solid 14.7 right as it starts up, that's the module sending a dummy signal to the MS while it waits for real data from the wideband... as I understand it anyway.

It idles pretty smooth. Well, as smooth as can be expected for a BP. It was actually smoother on the COPs even running as lean as it was.

Also, I made another log this morning with a 60º cold start. See attached.

 

Why not 2 more seconds (or the equivalent number of cycles) to your ASE time at higher temps?

 

if it idles fine ignore the o2 sensor. There's definitely a possibility that your sensor is still warming up. Tune by feel.

 

Now go install your vent windows.

 

Maybe tonight, we'll see. I can't get the Miata out of the driveway with the construction they are doing on my street, so anything other than stationary tuning (such as idle and startup) or fiddling with things isn't really an option right now. Vent windows count as fiddling, but we'll see.

And yes, I'll probably just double the ASE taper (not the % adder, duh) and see what happens.

I discovered last night that my middle timing cover has a huge WTF crack in it next to the bolt hole, and I'm missing all the bolts for my upper timing cover.

Also, my box from Rosenthal failed to be delivered yesterday. If it manages to show up today that will be 15 days from payment to delivery. Time to go check out Jim Ellis again.

 

Install vent windows!