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One question, apologies if it's covered before. Still retains rear IRS and wide front tyres - are you thinking it might do some twisty stuff too or is it a pure drag car?
Racecar: Got it aligned, finally. Took forever. But I think it's OK. Either way, going to run how it is now and see what it does, and adjust from there.
Street car: The car has had a roaring sound that gets louder with vehicle speed for a long time. Anyway, I decided to change all the wheel bearings/pads/rotors/rebuild all the calipers.
Fronts are totally done. Rears are mostly apart. Bearings are out. Gotta rebuild the calipers, then install the bearings/hubs/etc and reassemble.
One thing I feared, was the rear axles would be stuck. They were very stuck. The axle nut took heating with a torch and 5' bar to break. The axles, I removed using a rediculous air hammer I have that is known as "big nasty" according to the internet. Even that, it almost lost but eventually it won.
The axles have corrosion pitting on them unfortunately. So, one day, I'll need to replace them, especially if I wanna go fast. It's just the stubs, so I guess in theory if I could find just those, I could rebuild them? Or try to find some stock miata axles in good shape.
This was the (someone can quote this and laugh one day) last big purchase I had to make for the miata. 18' steel deck car hauler. Bought new. Ramps are too short, gotta do something about that. But overall, bam! Trailer.
Race ramps are the canonical solution, another option is to get a set of regular car ramps and back the truck up onto them. That raises the back of the truck/front of the trailer, thus lowering the back of the trailer.
Another thing to consider is a winch for the trailer. Essential for when you've blown it up, but also useful in normal operation too because race cars usually aren't happy creeping up and down inclines in tight spaces.
Hmm. I like the idea, not so much the price. That looks like something that could be DIY'd for not 1,000 dollars.
Originally Posted by codrus
Race ramps are the canonical solution, another option is to get a set of regular car ramps and back the truck up onto them. That raises the back of the truck/front of the trailer, thus lowering the back of the trailer.
Another thing to consider is a winch for the trailer. Essential for when you've blown it up, but also useful in normal operation too because race cars usually aren't happy creeping up and down inclines in tight spaces.
--Ian
I have a small winch, need to figure out if it's up to dragging a car on the trailer. But I like the idea of a winch.
Originally Posted by Gee Emm
That's a lot of unused steel you are paying for/towing around!! Why so big?
You will find that a jockey wheel has multiple uses including lifting the nose of the trailer.
I wanted a 16', but the a lot of folks sell 18-22' trailers. The place I bought this from, they said ordering a 16 vs 18 ft trailer was only 30 something dollar difference, so they don't stock the 16'.
On the plus side, it gives me extra space to add some stuff, which I am planning to do. (winch, lights, battery charger, air compressor, tool box, few other things, maybe some crazy ****)
I wanted a 16', but the a lot of folks sell 18-22' trailers. The place I bought this from, they said ordering a 16 vs 18 ft trailer was only 30 something dollar difference, so they don't stock the 16'.
IMHO the 18 is worth having, because you will find reasons to haul stuff that isn't a Miata eventually. Fitting my friend's E36 onto my old 16 foot trailer was kind of a PITA.
It looks pretty decent man, the ramps remind me of an old client's trailer that really pissed both of us off back in the day ha. Strategically placed 2x6 pieces of wood will be great friends that are inexpensive and relatively easy to store/haul around. Congrats on the new acquisition, I've really enjoyed watching this build progress from way back in the bleachers.
It looks pretty decent man, the ramps remind me of an old client's trailer that really pissed both of us off back in the day ha. Strategically placed 2x6 pieces of wood will be great friends that are inexpensive and relatively easy to store/haul around. Congrats on the new acquisition, I've really enjoyed watching this build progress from way back in the bleachers.
I'm back and forth on what I'm going to do on the ramps.
For say, 100-150 bucks, I can build a wooden version of "race ramps" that would work fine. Tempting, and low cost is a big plus. Could toss these in the back of the truck no problem, or beside the car once it's on the trailer I bet.
For 500 bucks, I can buy 7' aluminum ramps, and then attach them to the 5' steel ramps (with a center support where they meet) to make 12' ramps. These would work no better than the above wood option, so I'm not sure if it's worth considering. Really, it's just metal not wood and cost more. Also fits in the truck, or possibly under the car once the car is on the trailer.
For 1150 bucks, I can buy 12' aluminum ramps, then weld a hook on the tail of the trailer. These just work. But almost 10x the price of the first option... These would have to go on the trailer.
When I read the above, the first option seems to be the winner. All 3 options give me the same 12' total ramp length, but option 1 is really cheap. Also, being cheap means less likely to ever be stolen. I have heard of expensive ramps disappearing.
I'm back and forth on what I'm going to do on the ramps.
For say, 100-150 bucks, I can build a wooden version of "race ramps" that would work fine. Tempting, and low cost is a big plus. Could toss these in the back of the truck no problem, or beside the car once it's on the trailer I bet.
For 500 bucks, I can buy 7' aluminum ramps, and then attach them to the 5' steel ramps (with a center support where they meet) to make 12' ramps. These would work no better than the above wood option, so I'm not sure if it's worth considering. Really, it's just metal not wood and cost more. Also fits in the truck, or possibly under the car once the car is on the trailer.
For 1150 bucks, I can buy 12' aluminum ramps, then weld a hook on the tail of the trailer. These just work. But almost 10x the price of the first option... These would have to go on the trailer.
When I read the above, the first option seems to be the winner. All 3 options give me the same 12' total ramp length, but option 1 is really cheap. Also, being cheap means less likely to ever be stolen. I have heard of expensive ramps disappearing.
The selling point for race ramps is that they're light, wooden or steel ramps are very heavy and aluminum only a bit less so. Hauling heavy ramps back and forth between the truck bed and the back of the trailer gets old pretty quickly. It's also really nice to have everything that you need to use the trailer attached to the trailer -- that way you don't risk forgetting stuff.
I've used a couple trailers that tried to store ramps under the car -- it's a tight squeeze with a low car and becomes a pita to get them secure. A better solution I've seen is to mount them vertically (the short way) along the sides of the trailer at the front, kind of like a little fence running down the edge.
The cheap/easy solution is rhino ramps (plastic, so relatively light) under the rear wheels of the truck. Yes, they still need to go in the bed, but A) they're light B) they're cheap and C) you don't have to haul them very far. For my old open trailer that lowered the back of the trailer enough that the 4 foot ramps it came with were fine.
Ideal solution is to fabricate some custom ones that slide out from underneath the back of the trailer.
The cheap/easy solution is rhino ramps (plastic, so relatively light) under the rear wheels of the truck. Yes, they still need to go in the bed, but A) they're light B) they're cheap and C) you don't have to haul them very far. For my old open trailer that lowered the back of the trailer enough that the 4 foot ramps it came with were fine.
Ideal solution is to fabricate some custom ones that slide out from underneath the back of the trailer.
Ideal solution is to fabricate some custom ones that slide out from underneath the back of the trailer.
--Ian
I have custom 16’ trailer sized and built to fit my mx5 exactly. (and soon to be enclosed)
It has custom 7’ steel ramps that slide in/out underneath the back of the trailer.
Very convenient because you don’t have to move/carry them, just slide them out and lift the front end two inches to hook on the back, and the reverse to put away.
However I need 10’ ramps to get my splitter on without rubbing, and 7’ is the max length before they start interfering with the axles.
So I carry 3’ wooden ramps to make up the difference. A pita to carry, store, use so my next project after I enclose the trailer is to do a removable front bumper/splitter and then I can ditch the wooden 3’ ones and replace (or cut down) the 7’ ones to be a short 4’ slide in ramp.
Will be much lighter and easier to use.
The selling point for race ramps is that they're light, wooden or steel ramps are very heavy and aluminum only a bit less so. Hauling heavy ramps back and forth between the truck bed and the back of the trailer gets old pretty quickly. It's also really nice to have everything that you need to use the trailer attached to the trailer -- that way you don't risk forgetting stuff.
I've used a couple trailers that tried to store ramps under the car -- it's a tight squeeze with a low car and becomes a pita to get them secure. A better solution I've seen is to mount them vertically (the short way) along the sides of the trailer at the front, kind of like a little fence running down the edge.
The cheap/easy solution is rhino ramps (plastic, so relatively light) under the rear wheels of the truck. Yes, they still need to go in the bed, but A) they're light B) they're cheap and C) you don't have to haul them very far. For my old open trailer that lowered the back of the trailer enough that the 4 foot ramps it came with were fine.
Ideal solution is to fabricate some custom ones that slide out from underneath the back of the trailer.
--Ian
Originally Posted by rascal
I have custom 16 trailer sized and built to fit my mx5 exactly. (and soon to be enclosed)
It has custom 7 steel ramps that slide in/out underneath the back of the trailer.
Very convenient because you dont have to move/carry them, just slide them out and lift the front end two inches to hook on the back, and the reverse to put away.
However I need 10 ramps to get my splitter on without rubbing, and 7 is the max length before they start interfering with the axles.
So I carry 3 wooden ramps to make up the difference. A pita to carry, store, use so my next project after I enclose the trailer is to do a removable front bumper/splitter and then I can ditch the wooden 3 ones and replace (or cut down) the 7 ones to be a short 4 slide in ramp.
Will be much lighter and easier to use.
Ok. So I went to raceramps website. They have a calculator that you can put your trailer ramps info into, and it will tell you what options will work. When I put in my numbers, it says to call customer service for further help.
I'm sure as mentioned though, with lifting the nose of the trailer enough, they could work. So I'm going to consider that, but the ramps are 600 and something bucks without tax or shipping. Half way there to new 12' aluminum ramps.
I'm surprised there isn't a low cost knockoff of the raceramps. It seems like 200 bucks should buy some plastic long slinder ramps off amazon or somewhere.
My original plan was to just make the exisitng ramps longer. THey are 5' now. But they are about 1.5" away from bumping into the rear axle.
My second plan was to fab "extensions" that snap into the trailer's ramps to make them longer. My buddy said not to, would be a lot of hassle. I started looking into it anyways, but the cost of the steel is high if I buy online. I need to call a local steel place, that may make that option more practical to get better pricing and pick it up myself to save the shipping cost.
A really smart friend of mine told me to just buy the 1150 dollar ramps and not think about it anymore, cause it would save time and be worth it. Starting to think he's right as the cheaper options all have compromises.
I am going to look into driving the truck onto ramps to lift the nose and do the math for that. But I'm afraid I"d need to lift the tongue of the trailer a lot for that to work. And I don't really like that idea as I want to be able to use the back of the truck at the track, and it's already really high in the air.
Ok. I am going to look into driving the truck onto ramps to lift the nose and do the math for that. But I'm afraid I"d need to lift the tongue of the trailer a lot for that to work. And I don't really like that idea as I want to be able to use the back of the truck at the track, and it's already really high in the air.
The ramps that I have seen here appear to make it feasible to run the truck up them, load/unload the car, then drive off them (I think they are sold for levelling caravans). So in between unloading and loading at the end of the day/event, the truck is in the normal level position. Assuming your ramps are high enough to make a difference, is there a reason why this is not workable?
The ramps that I have seen here appear to make it feasible to run the truck up them, load/unload the car, then drive off them (I think they are sold for levelling caravans). So in between unloading and loading at the end of the day/event, the truck is in the normal level position. Assuming your ramps are high enough to make a difference, is there a reason why this is not workable?
You're right, I could do that, I didn't think about that. I think that can be workable if I lift the rear enough, probably 10-12" up. I haven't done the math yet but I will. But no, I don't know of any reason it couldn't work. Worst case is probably to knife edge the bottom of the exising ramps + lift the rear tires of the truck = works. If so, tha'ts probably cheap and fairly easy. Or, have a 2" ramps that goes in front of my ramps steel ramps and not knife edge them, as the 2" step is a deal breaker as the front end only has 3.5" of ground clearance.
02-13-2024, 04:44 AM
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