Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
#2761
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Its not very obvious. Definitely one of those "read the manual" features. You have to click on the button that has the 2 arrows pointing at the axis. Now that I've done it it seems obvious, but I had never pressed that button before.
Brb rescalling all my tables to match.
Brb rescalling all my tables to match.
#2765
I would start gradually adding boost and see how it behaves at lower levels and adjust from there. Maybe plug in 10 for now
*edit: it has to be relatively linear. It's not like it should plummet past a certain level, it should still keep going down gradually as boost goes up.
So what does the rest of the table look like? post up most recent
*edit: it has to be relatively linear. It's not like it should plummet past a certain level, it should still keep going down gradually as boost goes up.
So what does the rest of the table look like? post up most recent
#2766
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Thats the plan. Not going to go straight for a 20+psi run lol. Just want something to rough in.
What about the shape from left to right. Right now i'm shaping it based off of soviets map. But with very retarded values (his is e85)
What about the shape from left to right. Right now i'm shaping it based off of soviets map. But with very retarded values (his is e85)
#2767
dude. stop trying to copy soviets or whoever's map. he was on e85 and a borg turbo. totally not what Ed's car is running.
You can just keep it super simple for now and keep all the rows same. Then depending on what the car likes and what the power is looking like, you can dip the midrange and/or taper up top to "prop up" the power from dropping (if it does drop).
Trust me, copying someone else's tune is usually a waste of time. It almost never helps. Esp when the setup is different.
You can just keep it super simple for now and keep all the rows same. Then depending on what the car likes and what the power is looking like, you can dip the midrange and/or taper up top to "prop up" the power from dropping (if it does drop).
Trust me, copying someone else's tune is usually a waste of time. It almost never helps. Esp when the setup is different.
#2770
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Roughed in.
39* to 50kpa
27* at 100kpa (for most of the row. Tapering left of 2800 so were not running super advanced at full throttle low RPM)
10* at 280kpa.
Interpolated between the above numbers.
#2772
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That looks really aggressive for gas, but I am used to really shitty pump gas. My general rule for safety is 26-27 degrees at 100kpa, and 1 degree less for every 7kpa (1psi) of boost. So 170kpa should be ~16-17deg, 240kpa should be 6-7 degrees. That is way conservative but at least you know you (probably) won't grenade the motor on the first pull.
If you're on E85, that looks good, carry on.
If you're on E85, that looks good, carry on.
#2773
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Not e85. Oregon pump gas. So 92. Also we aren't 100% sure the pistons are 8.6. Its a trackspeed engine, but not the first owner.
I like conservative. I'll work those suggestions in.
Tuning MBT on non-load bearing dyno: What are best practices for this.
I like conservative. I'll work those suggestions in.
Tuning MBT on non-load bearing dyno: What are best practices for this.
#2774
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Here is a reworked table from Savs input. Note the y axis change to match jumps of 5 psi for ease of conversion from kpa to psi.
Conservative is good. This is a track car, not a dyno queen. It needs to run on cali gas and oregon gas, and everything in between.
Conservative is good. This is a track car, not a dyno queen. It needs to run on cali gas and oregon gas, and everything in between.
#2775
lol good luck tuning for MBT on non-load bearing.
you'll likely have better luck hitting realistic loads street tuning it.
but yeah, for heavy track use I'd err on too conservative vs most powah
actually I'd worry less about MBT and more about the car being ultra happy and not having issues.
and can't you guys have Andrew look up the specs he built that motor to? I recall him remembering quite a few details about it and posting them here
you'll likely have better luck hitting realistic loads street tuning it.
but yeah, for heavy track use I'd err on too conservative vs most powah
actually I'd worry less about MBT and more about the car being ultra happy and not having issues.
and can't you guys have Andrew look up the specs he built that motor to? I recall him remembering quite a few details about it and posting them here
#2776
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Inorite. I need to get my hands on a load bearing. We will probably just add 2* at a time and see what power does. Its hard because we need to watch fuel and boost changes with timing also.
Andrew. Post anything up if you know. I'm kind of assuming its an 8.6:1 build.
Andrew. Post anything up if you know. I'm kind of assuming its an 8.6:1 build.
#2779
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Track in california will be wastegate (8psi).
We are going to tune up to wastegate (and a little beyond for safety) to be conservative. At least 4* or more below MBT (if we can find it).
Up to 300hp on a safe tune (push to pass button)
And then go for glory beyond that and try and break 350hp.
We are going to tune up to wastegate (and a little beyond for safety) to be conservative. At least 4* or more below MBT (if we can find it).
Up to 300hp on a safe tune (push to pass button)
And then go for glory beyond that and try and break 350hp.
#2780
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As for engine details, TSE built the engine originally but then another shop rebuilt it. I don't fully understand how that all happened, but it doesn't have TSE's supertechs in it, it has wisecos in it. So we really aren't sure what CR it has, though I expect it's 8.6:1 given the PO's penchant for being conservative for boost.