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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #1001  
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Post 1000 claimed!

But seriously, good choice on Urban's car.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 07:51 PM
  #1002  
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Are the rear fenders cut up for the wide body? If not then I think it's a great buy. Slap some stock fenders and 15x8s with some 205s on there and start going to track days.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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Front fenders removed for widebody and replaced with these. Rear fenders are cut up. Also remember, rear quarters aren't exactly easily swapped out.

That's really my only hesitation, I wanted to run 205's. But it seems to me that rivals on X9's on an NA car should be fine for me for learning.

.... and then, post V8 swap and a couple years learning to drive the car, I can throw the X10's on there and go to town
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:04 PM
  #1004  
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It's fine if you wanna pay that much for the widebody, but it's gonna look funny with +25 15x8s and 205s.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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Spacers on Spacers on Spacers. Ed lives the stance life one hairpin at a time.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #1006  
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Originally Posted by greddygalant
Spacers on Spacers on Spacers. Ed lives the stance life one hairpin at a time.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:37 PM
  #1007  
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^how much do you want for the windshield washer bottle?!
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
^how much do you want for the windshield washer bottle?!
Edit: ignore my idiocy.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:25 PM
  #1009  
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OK, serious concerns raised as to durability of the widebody parts for tracking.

Thoughts?

I PM'd Leatherface for his thoughts too.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:27 PM
  #1010  
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Originally Posted by turbofan
OK, serious concerns raised as to durability of the widebody parts for tracking.

Thoughts?

I PM'd Leatherface for his thoughts too.
Definition of durability? I mean a tire wall will break any fender, widebody or not. But I got new fenders for $160 total, widebody is $350+shipping without body work.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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Sure, replacement cost is much higher. But I'm really concerned about that broken fender, and how it bodes for the future. He didn't hit a wall, tire contacted it or tire slag hit it.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofan
Sure, replacement cost is much higher. But I'm really concerned about that broken fender, and how it bodes for the future. He didn't hit a wall, tire contacted it or tire slag hit it.
Get really good at fiberglass work?
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 10:26 PM
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Fiberglass gets heavier every time you"work" on it.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 10:27 PM
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Ha. True.

Going to pick up the insurance check in the morning. $7400 after buyback. I'm satisfied.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 11:20 PM
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after the 2 accidents, I'm curious how much your insurance premiums went up

looks like they really took care of you though. very impressive.
Old Dec 9, 2014 | 11:24 PM
  #1016  
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After the first it didn't seem to change much. I don't know how they'll rate this one since I wasn't the driver.

They definitely took care of me though. I'm paying like $110/mo for full coverage on the Miata and our jetta. Not fantastic but when I moved here I was getting quotes for double that. This friggin spendy here.
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Last edited by turbofan; Dec 10, 2014 at 02:56 AM.
Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:12 AM
  #1017  
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Well, if they're not making money off you, they won't be your "friend" for much longer.
Old Dec 11, 2014 | 11:26 AM
  #1018  
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Slow down imo. Slow your roll and be more methodical with both your driving and miata building. You're rushing into stuff and trying to get to the end before the slow build up. I have 15k in my car and there are plenty of places where I dumped cash and didn't need to in the name of wanting the best.

Having an NA track car is about having something cheap, reliable and checks the boxes. You won't have power so you better have the best suspension you can afford for example anything else won't do imo. And this is true in another couple of key areas.

You don't want a wide body track car because A) your'e locked into wheel/tire sizes, B) walking away from the shell is a pita. With that car you're basically paying for a ton of stuff you're going to not need or replace. Also... with an NA car you're either bp4w or vvt or gtfo. imo. There's a reason that owner was building a vvt motor...

(i had a big long post typed up... but lost it. In retrospect it's for the best, it came across as preachy and dickish)
Old Dec 11, 2014 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by EErockMiata
Slow down imo. Slow your roll and be more methodical with both your driving and miata building. You're rushing into stuff and trying to get to the end before the slow build up. I have 15k in my car and there are plenty of places where I dumped cash and didn't need to in the name of wanting the best.

Having an NA track car is about having something cheap, reliable and checks the boxes. You won't have power so you better have the best suspension you can afford for example anything else won't do imo. And this is true in another couple of key areas.

You don't want a wide body track car because A) your'e locked into wheel/tire sizes, B) walking away from the shell is a pita. With that car you're basically paying for a ton of stuff you're going to not need or replace. Also... with an NA car you're either bp4w or vvt or gtfo. imo. There's a reason that owner was building a vvt motor...

(i had a big long post typed up... but lost it. In retrospect it's for the best, it came across as preachy and dickish)
He makes a lot of good points. You should buy a shell that costs like less than 3k to replace. Something you can crash then buy another junker and spend a weekend at CSTG swapping susp and safety stuff and be at the track the next weekend. The supermiata guys run 15x10s on heavily pulled fenders right?

Another vote for something cheap from me.I crashed my first day at PIR and the only think I really hurt that day was my ego (and martins neck) I don't really care that my car got beat up because it cost me close to nothing.
Old Dec 11, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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Damn dude. I've been slowly catching up on this thread and can't believe that it happened all over again. Most importantly I'm glad that everyone is ok.

I know my opinion doesn't mean anything, and it shouldn't, but I would vote for starting over with a reasonably clean but relatively plain NA8 or NB with a torsen. Bonus if it's already got a HD or BF rollbar. Spend money on a good suspension and HPDE instruction and drive the **** out of it for a year. Then start modding.



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