Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
The bright side is an NA swap hands down.
The MSM/NB chassis has been holding us back since day one. MSM specific interior, wiring, exterior, it all holds a premium and kills the joy of cheap turbo miatas.
I say '92-'95, buy year specific MS2, swap in MSM motor with Absurdflow setup and exhaust, anything else NB drivetrain related that isn't damaged, and bam: car of my dreams.
I'm thinking classic red, smurf blue, or a while car in absolute perfect condition paint wise would be best.
This is of course, after you spend 40-600 years driving it N/A at the same time as honing your MS skills and driving skills and tracking the mothing f'ing s**t out of it.
The MSM/NB chassis has been holding us back since day one. MSM specific interior, wiring, exterior, it all holds a premium and kills the joy of cheap turbo miatas.
I say '92-'95, buy year specific MS2, swap in MSM motor with Absurdflow setup and exhaust, anything else NB drivetrain related that isn't damaged, and bam: car of my dreams.
I'm thinking classic red, smurf blue, or a while car in absolute perfect condition paint wise would be best.
This is of course, after you spend 40-600 years driving it N/A at the same time as honing your MS skills and driving skills and tracking the mothing f'ing s**t out of it.
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My condolances.
But I'd like to +1 Curly - I'm driving a NA in not-so-hot condition with some pretty nice parts for Curly's exact reasoning. NA's are cheap and easy to find.
But I'd like to +1 Curly - I'm driving a NA in not-so-hot condition with some pretty nice parts for Curly's exact reasoning. NA's are cheap and easy to find.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
The bright side is an NA swap hands down.
The MSM/NB chassis has been holding us back since day one. MSM specific interior, wiring, exterior, it all holds a premium and kills the joy of cheap turbo miatas.
I say '92-'95, buy year specific MS2, swap in MSM motor with Absurdflow setup and exhaust, anything else NB drivetrain related that isn't damaged, and bam: car of my dreams.
I'm thinking classic red, smurf blue, or a while car in absolute perfect condition paint wise would be best.
This is of course, after you spend 40-600 years driving it N/A at the same time as honing your MS skills and driving skills and tracking the mothing f'ing s**t out of it.
The MSM/NB chassis has been holding us back since day one. MSM specific interior, wiring, exterior, it all holds a premium and kills the joy of cheap turbo miatas.
I say '92-'95, buy year specific MS2, swap in MSM motor with Absurdflow setup and exhaust, anything else NB drivetrain related that isn't damaged, and bam: car of my dreams.
I'm thinking classic red, smurf blue, or a while car in absolute perfect condition paint wise would be best.
This is of course, after you spend 40-600 years driving it N/A at the same time as honing your MS skills and driving skills and tracking the mothing f'ing s**t out of it.
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sorry gayz, but I disagree about the na idea.
it takes significant mods to get an na chassis to even feel like an nb
looks are subjective, but I just cannot for the life of me see how an na looks better. I have yet to see an na that I think actually looks as good as similarly modded nb.
plus, you can get high mile basic nb's for pretty cheap these days
*edit: before someone thinks I'm making this up:
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4776555154.html
NB roller, $500
it takes significant mods to get an na chassis to even feel like an nb
looks are subjective, but I just cannot for the life of me see how an na looks better. I have yet to see an na that I think actually looks as good as similarly modded nb.
plus, you can get high mile basic nb's for pretty cheap these days
*edit: before someone thinks I'm making this up:
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4776555154.html
NB roller, $500
I have a 1999 Mazda Miata rolling shell/chassis and parts for sale.
It has a Full interior,
trunk lid,
both doors,
steering column,
both seats,
Head for a 1.8 and for a 1.6 motor(both are included)
full intake for a 1.8
Raceland Header exhaust
starter
2 cooling fans
5 speed manual transmission
transmission bracket
airbox
driveshaft
rear subframe stiffing bracket
front and rear subframe,
all suspension components besides the struts
Also has the LSD rear differential and rear brakes
It has a set of 4 aftermarket spoked black wheels, and is on some spares to roll it.
A ton more as well but thats the main stuff.
It's a great parts car and a more than reasonable price. Bring a trailer to tow home, or depending on where your located I can deliver for a little extra money. Asking 500 dollars for everything obo call or text Adam (916) eight seven one-8141
It has a Full interior,
trunk lid,
both doors,
steering column,
both seats,
Head for a 1.8 and for a 1.6 motor(both are included)
full intake for a 1.8
Raceland Header exhaust
starter
2 cooling fans
5 speed manual transmission
transmission bracket
airbox
driveshaft
rear subframe stiffing bracket
front and rear subframe,
all suspension components besides the struts
Also has the LSD rear differential and rear brakes
It has a set of 4 aftermarket spoked black wheels, and is on some spares to roll it.
A ton more as well but thats the main stuff.
It's a great parts car and a more than reasonable price. Bring a trailer to tow home, or depending on where your located I can deliver for a little extra money. Asking 500 dollars for everything obo call or text Adam (916) eight seven one-8141
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
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1.6 Miatas are better in every aspect save their engine size and diff. Drive a stock 1.6 (long nose with trunk switch are HUGE priorities) that's in good shape for a while, you'll see what I'm talking about. Mazda slowly ruined Miatas starting in '94.
His MSM motor is TSE built with a giant Absurdflow setup on it. Huge amount of money dumped into it by the PO, would be stupid to let insurance crush it or to not use it in another project.
His MSM motor is TSE built with a giant Absurdflow setup on it. Huge amount of money dumped into it by the PO, would be stupid to let insurance crush it or to not use it in another project.
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I'm really trying to believe you, but our experiences have been polar opposite apparently.
*edit:
Though I must say, if he's gonna track it, might as well go na with the least options to make it as light as possible.
Cage it and go nuts
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
1.6 Miatas are better in every aspect save their engine size and diff. Drive a stock 1.6 (long nose with trunk switch are HUGE priorities) that's in good shape for a while, you'll see what I'm talking about. Mazda slowly ruined Miatas starting in '94.
His MSM motor is TSE built with a giant Absurdflow setup on it. Huge amount of money dumped into it by the PO, would be stupid to let insurance crush it or to not use it in another project.
His MSM motor is TSE built with a giant Absurdflow setup on it. Huge amount of money dumped into it by the PO, would be stupid to let insurance crush it or to not use it in another project.
Ed I'm still hunting for a hardtop if you end up parting out. Just throwing that out.
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Elite Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,211
Total Cats: 151
From: Houston, TX
If you are a old British roadster fan you will prefer the NA. There really is a huge difference depending on how you drive the car. I prefer the NA for around town and the NB for long highway trips. I think the NA has more soul, the NB is a better car. You either get it or you don't, either way they are both nice cars.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
I know what I'm getting into with NA vs NB. I've driven both, I owned a bone stock '97, I owned that stock 10AE, and I drove a 92 sunburst that was clean and all original. By far I preferred the 10AE, then the '97, and the '92 was a distant last. The original NA was a sweet little car but much too soft and gutless to be of any real interest. I'd happily add the extra weight and complexity and start with an NB like the 10AE.
What an NA gets me is less weight and no emissions.
I really do need to think long and hard about what I want though. I will be doing some tests to the motor before I pull it: compression and leak down to see how healthy it is, at least.
I had been thinking that if I managed to blow my motor with my ECU meddling or whatever that i would do a swap of some sort, but I am nervous about that because I think I could stumble through a tub swap with just a little help from CSTG, but a full engine swap would leave me feeling pretty lost.
So, in the end... I don't know what to do. First things first, need to get the car back here and find out how much they're going to give me for it. Once I know how much money I have I'll start looking.
Not gonna lie, a part of me really wants to go S2k. But I love my Miata so much, so who knows.
What an NA gets me is less weight and no emissions.
I really do need to think long and hard about what I want though. I will be doing some tests to the motor before I pull it: compression and leak down to see how healthy it is, at least.
I had been thinking that if I managed to blow my motor with my ECU meddling or whatever that i would do a swap of some sort, but I am nervous about that because I think I could stumble through a tub swap with just a little help from CSTG, but a full engine swap would leave me feeling pretty lost.
So, in the end... I don't know what to do. First things first, need to get the car back here and find out how much they're going to give me for it. Once I know how much money I have I'll start looking.
Not gonna lie, a part of me really wants to go S2k. But I love my Miata so much, so who knows.
Last edited by turbofan; Nov 28, 2014 at 02:31 AM.
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