Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
12-13-2014, 11:09 PM
#1081
The problem is I want money. So he needs to do a K-swap.
No I'll be honest, cause I've discussed this with Ed:
absurdflow mani+dp+turbo+wastegate=$3k to the right buyer
built msm motor=$3k to the right buyer
tse built 3" exhaust=$500
that's $6.5k, and the k swap costs $4k? Can an engine be had for under $2.5k?
This is assuming once you get all the money out of the engine/turbo setup, half of it doesn't go to shipping and the other half doesn't go to kayaks.
No I'll be honest, cause I've discussed this with Ed:
absurdflow mani+dp+turbo+wastegate=$3k to the right buyer
built msm motor=$3k to the right buyer
tse built 3" exhaust=$500
that's $6.5k, and the k swap costs $4k? Can an engine be had for under $2.5k?
This is assuming once you get all the money out of the engine/turbo setup, half of it doesn't go to shipping and the other half doesn't go to kayaks.
And no way you're completing a K swap for even 6k unless you charge nothing for labor
Reply
0
0
12-14-2014, 02:07 AM
#1082
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
Bah. **** all that. Ed needs to put the absurdflow stuff in the garage because it's ABSURDFLOW and he OWNS IT. Keep the drivetrain as well.
He needs a cheap NB shell. Half cage it, make it light. Put the drivetrain in it. Drive the fuckall out of it, but NOT ON SUMMER TIRES, IN THE RAIN, ON THE STREET. Do 2015 on track/autocross on sticky tires. DRIVE THE **** OUT OF IT. 2016 - put absurdflow on it.
When I right-seated Ed everything seemed fine. The only issues with this car have been
a) rain
b) sudden onset of boost
c) sub-optimal tires for a) and b)
d) possibly driver error incurring a) b) c) simultaneously
You have many solid rotating parts. Transfer them to the next build in stages. Have more than one set of tires/wheels because it matters. Profit!
He needs a cheap NB shell. Half cage it, make it light. Put the drivetrain in it. Drive the fuckall out of it, but NOT ON SUMMER TIRES, IN THE RAIN, ON THE STREET. Do 2015 on track/autocross on sticky tires. DRIVE THE **** OUT OF IT. 2016 - put absurdflow on it.
When I right-seated Ed everything seemed fine. The only issues with this car have been
a) rain
b) sudden onset of boost
c) sub-optimal tires for a) and b)
d) possibly driver error incurring a) b) c) simultaneously
You have many solid rotating parts. Transfer them to the next build in stages. Have more than one set of tires/wheels because it matters. Profit!
Reply
2
2
12-14-2014, 12:52 PM
#1084
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,191
Total Cats: 1,135
The biggest problem Ed is seeming to have is that it's way too much turbo. Isn't his setup capable of 400ish? even 300 is too much for someone with just a season of tracking an N/A Miata. He mentioned just turning down the boost on the big turbo, but I fear that will come with it's own tuning related issues, they don't like being outside of their compressor maps.
I think the smartest decision would be to do what Mobius mentioned, track a stockish NB or NA, and transfer the go-fast parts over with a SMALLER turbo once he's getting consistent times.
Fully lightened laz with MS/1.6/MCS/hoosiers/cobalts: 1:32
Lexi with MS/1.6/bilstein/HPallseasons/cobalts: 1:34
Luke with 1.6/tein/HPallseasons/cobalts: 1:34
Let's see Ed get close to those figure before anyone else suggests brake upgrades, engine upgrades, engine swaps, or turbo additions.
Reply
0
0
12-14-2014, 03:43 PM
#1085
Since we were on the subject of S2000s, I'm going to leave this here...
2008 Honda S2000 CR built for SCCA Touring 3 class. Basically stock, very little done to the car. The car has stock springs, H&R single adjustable dampers, stock swaybars, stock wheels, stock intake, cat-delete pipe (same diameter as stock cat inlet), cat-back exhaust, ECU reflash and O.S. Giken diff. 235/245 BFGoodrich R1-S tires.
To reiterate; H&R dampers, cat-back exhaust, re-flash, O.S. Giken diff, race pads and race tires. Otherwise bone stock. Weight blocks in the trunk to make 2850lb minimum weight, with driver.
I set the track record that day @ 1:24.334. ~6.7s under the Spec Miata track record (all HP track though...).
The T3 S2000s were dead nutz reliable. Between races I would check alignment and check oil. Easy on tires and easy on brakes.
2008 Honda S2000 CR built for SCCA Touring 3 class. Basically stock, very little done to the car. The car has stock springs, H&R single adjustable dampers, stock swaybars, stock wheels, stock intake, cat-delete pipe (same diameter as stock cat inlet), cat-back exhaust, ECU reflash and O.S. Giken diff. 235/245 BFGoodrich R1-S tires.
To reiterate; H&R dampers, cat-back exhaust, re-flash, O.S. Giken diff, race pads and race tires. Otherwise bone stock. Weight blocks in the trunk to make 2850lb minimum weight, with driver.
I set the track record that day @ 1:24.334. ~6.7s under the Spec Miata track record (all HP track though...).
The T3 S2000s were dead nutz reliable. Between races I would check alignment and check oil. Easy on tires and easy on brakes.
Reply
0
0
12-14-2014, 07:45 PM
#1087
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
Posts: 2,764
Total Cats: 951
I don't get why people are still methodically berating Ed, it happened, he knows why, he isn't blaming ulterior reasons for the incidents. Move on. He got the insurance check, it's over.
My 2 cents; buy what makes you happy. If a car appeals to you, and you keep coming back to it, that is the car you should buy. It doesn't always have to be the mathematically objectively sound function over form car, it has to be the car you want to get in, and while driving, have a smile on your face.
My 2 cents; buy what makes you happy. If a car appeals to you, and you keep coming back to it, that is the car you should buy. It doesn't always have to be the mathematically objectively sound function over form car, it has to be the car you want to get in, and while driving, have a smile on your face.
Reply
3
3
12-15-2014, 01:10 PM
#1089
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
I don't get why people are still methodically berating Ed, it happened, he knows why, he isn't blaming ulterior reasons for the incidents. Move on. He got the insurance check, it's over.
My 2 cents; buy what makes you happy. If a car appeals to you, and you keep coming back to it, that is the car you should buy. It doesn't always have to be the mathematically objectively sound function over form car, it has to be the car you want to get in, and while driving, have a smile on your face.
My 2 cents; buy what makes you happy. If a car appeals to you, and you keep coming back to it, that is the car you should buy. It doesn't always have to be the mathematically objectively sound function over form car, it has to be the car you want to get in, and while driving, have a smile on your face.
Reply
0
0
It's almost like a really weak version of the ramp up you get with a turbo car, and those cars are pretty undriveable i hear. 
12-15-2014, 04:19 PM
#1092
Having had both, I think the NB1 Is a better setup for me than the AP2 (spirited daily with no Autox). The former just lacks a little power which I am going to resolve as soon as the JR SC kit is available. The handling will be resolved when the Tecnas are available. I always thought that the AP2 was not predictable when pushed while cornering.. could have been the setup, or perhaps even user error. I could push my buddy's AP1 harder than I could my own AP2.
Reply
0
0
12-15-2014, 07:42 PM
#1095
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,952
Total Cats: 1,005
I just haven't had the chance to give all your replies proper answers 
loving the banter going on in here though.
Might have won a super clean midnight blue '99 at auction. Waiting to hear back from the broker.
loving the banter going on in here though.Might have won a super clean midnight blue '99 at auction. Waiting to hear back from the broker.
Reply
0
0
12-16-2014, 02:19 PM
#1097
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,952
Total Cats: 1,005
Ready for freaking epic huge multi-quote post?
Totally agree. You'll remember that my plan for next year was less tire and less power to learn to drive. I'm sticking with that plan, though it seems like I'm going to end up with lessless power than I expected.
I like this.
Thanks for that. I won't be able to get near that much seat time in one summer but hope to work up to that once I can make instructor in a couple/few years.
This seems like the plan for me. Buy cheap car. Drive it while collecting Kswap parts and letting other build threads pop up and play out and sort out bugs. Profit.
I love this post. Unfortunately, I did a compression test the other night and here's how it came out:
Cyl 1
Cyl 2
Cyl 3
Cyl 4
Seems to me that 1 and 4 are alright being that it was a totally cold test. 2 and 3 though... Gonna chat some more with CSTG. Will likely have him refresh it whether I keep it or sell it simply because I'll want it fresh if I keep it and it'll be worth a LOT more fresh if I sell it.
Anyway, I'm not in a huge rush to sell it because I have monies in the bank and selling other stuff. Not making a decision on what to do with this for now.
I am kinda thinking that if I was to keep my setup I'd swap out the 2871 for a 2560........ Or something else.
Sounds freaking awesome. But I think I'm off the S2k again due to cost. Who the hell knows.
Thanks Jeff. This comment makes me want to revisit the S2k I just think it's silly to finance a toy (remember, when I bought and financed the MSM it was still going to be a daily as well as weekend car, I didn't have a dealer demo yet). I want to pay cash for whatever I buy.
Bought one Ended up finding one on Amazon for $350 shipped and I don't have to chase down someone on craigslist. It's kindof a cheapy one but reviews are really good so I'm just gonna float with it and see what happens.
Quoted for truth. Thanks again for your help. I finally responded to your text regarding the impact driver.
Gonna end up emailing the guy an offer. He's not very responsive. Earliest I could go get it is in next weekend though.
Finally, I didn't get the NB1. It was beautiful and I think the broker sniped it for himself, because my top bid was $3700 and the vehicle page shows that's what it sold for, but he said we didn't get it and it went for $3800. Lesson learned: forget the brokers, get a membership and go direct.
The problem is I want money. So he needs to do a K-swap.
No I'll be honest, cause I've discussed this with Ed:
absurdflow mani+dp+turbo+wastegate=$3k to the right buyer
built msm motor=$3k to the right buyer
tse built 3" exhaust=$500
that's $6.5k, and the k swap costs $4k? Can an engine be had for under $2.5k?
This is assuming once you get all the money out of the engine/turbo setup, half of it doesn't go to shipping and the other half doesn't go to kayaks.
No I'll be honest, cause I've discussed this with Ed:
absurdflow mani+dp+turbo+wastegate=$3k to the right buyer
built msm motor=$3k to the right buyer
tse built 3" exhaust=$500
that's $6.5k, and the k swap costs $4k? Can an engine be had for under $2.5k?
This is assuming once you get all the money out of the engine/turbo setup, half of it doesn't go to shipping and the other half doesn't go to kayaks.
Bah. **** all that. Ed needs to put the absurdflow stuff in the garage because it's ABSURDFLOW and he OWNS IT. Keep the drivetrain as well.
He needs a cheap NB shell. Half cage it, make it light. Put the drivetrain in it. Drive the fuckall out of it, but NOT ON SUMMER TIRES, IN THE RAIN, ON THE STREET. Do 2015 on track/autocross on sticky tires. DRIVE THE **** OUT OF IT. 2016 - put absurdflow on it.
When I right-seated Ed everything seemed fine. The only issues with this car have been
a) rain
b) sudden onset of boost
c) sub-optimal tires for a) and b)
d) possibly driver error incurring a) b) c) simultaneously
You have many solid rotating parts. Transfer them to the next build in stages. Have more than one set of tires/wheels because it matters. Profit!
He needs a cheap NB shell. Half cage it, make it light. Put the drivetrain in it. Drive the fuckall out of it, but NOT ON SUMMER TIRES, IN THE RAIN, ON THE STREET. Do 2015 on track/autocross on sticky tires. DRIVE THE **** OUT OF IT. 2016 - put absurdflow on it.
When I right-seated Ed everything seemed fine. The only issues with this car have been
a) rain
b) sudden onset of boost
c) sub-optimal tires for a) and b)
d) possibly driver error incurring a) b) c) simultaneously
You have many solid rotating parts. Transfer them to the next build in stages. Have more than one set of tires/wheels because it matters. Profit!
I love this post. Unfortunately, I did a compression test the other night and here's how it came out:Cyl 1
Cyl 2
Cyl 3
Cyl 4
Seems to me that 1 and 4 are alright being that it was a totally cold test. 2 and 3 though... Gonna chat some more with CSTG. Will likely have him refresh it whether I keep it or sell it simply because I'll want it fresh if I keep it and it'll be worth a LOT more fresh if I sell it.
Anyway, I'm not in a huge rush to sell it because I have monies in the bank and selling other stuff. Not making a decision on what to do with this for now.
I think I meant to say in that post: "where is the other $3k?" because that's a big jump between my estimate and kmiatas. Especially when my motor estimate was apparently $1.5k high.
It's a very good suggestion. I've told him the same thing, but after reading the k-threads, it does seem like something I'd like to tackle some day, especially on someone else's dime.
The biggest problem Ed is seeming to have is that it's way too much turbo. Isn't his setup capable of 400ish? even 300 is too much for someone with just a season of tracking an N/A Miata. He mentioned just turning down the boost on the big turbo, but I fear that will come with it's own tuning related issues, they don't like being outside of their compressor maps.
I think the smartest decision would be to do what Mobius mentioned, track a stockish NB or NA, and transfer the go-fast parts over with a SMALLER turbo once he's getting consistent times.
Fully lightened laz with MS/1.6/MCS/hoosiers/cobalts: 1:32
Lexi with MS/1.6/bilstein/HPallseasons/cobalts: 1:34
Luke with 1.6/tein/HPallseasons/cobalts: 1:34
Let's see Ed get close to those figure before anyone else suggests brake upgrades, engine upgrades, engine swaps, or turbo additions.
It's a very good suggestion. I've told him the same thing, but after reading the k-threads, it does seem like something I'd like to tackle some day, especially on someone else's dime.
The biggest problem Ed is seeming to have is that it's way too much turbo. Isn't his setup capable of 400ish? even 300 is too much for someone with just a season of tracking an N/A Miata. He mentioned just turning down the boost on the big turbo, but I fear that will come with it's own tuning related issues, they don't like being outside of their compressor maps.
I think the smartest decision would be to do what Mobius mentioned, track a stockish NB or NA, and transfer the go-fast parts over with a SMALLER turbo once he's getting consistent times.
Fully lightened laz with MS/1.6/MCS/hoosiers/cobalts: 1:32
Lexi with MS/1.6/bilstein/HPallseasons/cobalts: 1:34
Luke with 1.6/tein/HPallseasons/cobalts: 1:34
Let's see Ed get close to those figure before anyone else suggests brake upgrades, engine upgrades, engine swaps, or turbo additions.
Since we were on the subject of S2000s, I'm going to leave this here...
To reiterate; H&R dampers, cat-back exhaust, re-flash, O.S. Giken diff, race pads and race tires. Otherwise bone stock. Weight blocks in the trunk to make 2850lb minimum weight, with driver.
I set the track record that day @ 1:24.334. ~6.7s under the Spec Miata track record (all HP track though...).
The T3 S2000s were dead nutz reliable. Between races I would check alignment and check oil. Easy on tires and easy on brakes.
To reiterate; H&R dampers, cat-back exhaust, re-flash, O.S. Giken diff, race pads and race tires. Otherwise bone stock. Weight blocks in the trunk to make 2850lb minimum weight, with driver.
I set the track record that day @ 1:24.334. ~6.7s under the Spec Miata track record (all HP track though...).
The T3 S2000s were dead nutz reliable. Between races I would check alignment and check oil. Easy on tires and easy on brakes.
I don't get why people are still methodically berating Ed, it happened, he knows why, he isn't blaming ulterior reasons for the incidents. Move on. He got the insurance check, it's over.
My 2 cents; buy what makes you happy. If a car appeals to you, and you keep coming back to it, that is the car you should buy. It doesn't always have to be the mathematically objectively sound function over form car, it has to be the car you want to get in, and while driving, have a smile on your face.
My 2 cents; buy what makes you happy. If a car appeals to you, and you keep coming back to it, that is the car you should buy. It doesn't always have to be the mathematically objectively sound function over form car, it has to be the car you want to get in, and while driving, have a smile on your face.
I just think it's silly to finance a toy (remember, when I bought and financed the MSM it was still going to be a daily as well as weekend car, I didn't have a dealer demo yet). I want to pay cash for whatever I buy.Bought one
Ended up finding one on Amazon for $350 shipped and I don't have to chase down someone on craigslist. It's kindof a cheapy one but reviews are really good so I'm just gonna float with it and see what happens.Finally, I didn't get the NB1. It was beautiful and I think the broker sniped it for himself, because my top bid was $3700 and the vehicle page shows that's what it sold for, but he said we didn't get it and it went for $3800. Lesson learned: forget the brokers, get a membership and go direct.
Reply
0
0
12-16-2014, 03:31 PM
#1098
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,191
Total Cats: 1,135
All plugs out, battery full charged, throttle WOT, 5 compression cranks for each test?
Looks like 115, 95, 85, 110? I'd love to hear what others say about testing forged Pistons cold.
Looks like 115, 95, 85, 110? I'd love to hear what others say about testing forged Pistons cold.
Reply
0
0
12-16-2014, 03:34 PM
#1099
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,952
Total Cats: 1,005
all plugs out, battery was low so we hooked up jumper cables to do it and it was spinning pretty good. At least 5 compression cranks.
:( not surprised though honestly. it got real warm a few weeks back and it never felt quite the same after that. Damn. That was an expensive meeting.
:( not surprised though honestly. it got real warm a few weeks back and it never felt quite the same after that. Damn. That was an expensive meeting.
Reply
0
0
