Ryan's build thread - Clean and Mean
11-05-2012, 10:40 AM
#61
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The base map Reverant provided was so good right out of the box that very little corrections were even needed. I am currently running wastegate pressure to fine tune it before I turn up the boost. It is already leaps and bounds smoother than the **** tastic stock MSM tune.
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11-05-2012, 10:55 AM
#62
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I have one question for you though Rev. What is the service light (the one that is a car with a wrench in the middle of it) used for with you MS2?
It blinks at random intervals. I thought it was an AFR warning light because I noticed it at light loads when I was cruising and AFR was around 15.5 but it blinks sometimes when AFR is a lot lower.
It blinks at random intervals. I thought it was an AFR warning light because I noticed it at light loads when I was cruising and AFR was around 15.5 but it blinks sometimes when AFR is a lot lower.
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11-05-2012, 10:58 AM
#63
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Overheating warning (approx 217*F). Sometimes its spot on, other times its not. Its one of the things I get asked about a lot, so I decided to completely change the way it works on the newest model, and also to make it adjustable.
Do compare the coolant reading through TS and let me know at which temperature it begins to blink.
Do compare the coolant reading through TS and let me know at which temperature it begins to blink.
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11-05-2012, 11:02 AM
#64
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I will definitely check that out. i hope my coolant temps are not that high on the street when I am not ragging on the car. Thanks for the info.
Even though I am just at the tip of the iceburg with your ECU so far I am already incredibly impressed and glad I didn't try to make my own MS3x. Well worth the slightly extra cost for the massive amounts of saved time, inevitable headaches, and extra features.
EDIT: @Miata2fast, We definitely all need to get together again soon. How is the miata coming anyway?
Even though I am just at the tip of the iceburg with your ECU so far I am already incredibly impressed and glad I didn't try to make my own MS3x. Well worth the slightly extra cost for the massive amounts of saved time, inevitable headaches, and extra features.
EDIT: @Miata2fast, We definitely all need to get together again soon. How is the miata coming anyway?
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11-06-2012, 08:54 AM
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Yesterday after work I made my way over to Sixshooter's house to use his timing light to set my base timing so that I could finally drive my car in heavier loads. That only took about 5 minutes so we decided to take some time to smooth out some of the cars behavior at idle and then go for a drive and tune a bit.
Sixshooter got my idle running perfectly pretty quickly by just adjusting my idle up a bit from 850 to around 1050 to stop the car from almost stalling everytime the fans kicked on. It also handled my A/C better this way. While he was messing with my idle I checked to see when the coolant warning light kicked on and it started to blink right around ~195 degrees instead of at 217. Reverant, If you could let me know how to adjust this I would really appreciate it as the light is rather annoying.
When we went out for a drive we noticed that in heavy loads the base map was rather rich so we focused on leaning that out for a little while and we found a rather strange anomaly. Right at 5K rpms my car goes incredibly rich, 9.5:1 or something like that. It only does this between4800-5200 and then it behaves normally again. The autotune will not tune this out and if it is adjusted manually and then autotune is allowed to mess with those cells it makes it really rich again. We can not figure out why it is doing this so we set autotune to only tune to 4500 and later I will tune above 5200. Until I can figure out this issue I will leave that dead area at the manual settings we put in there.
If anyone has any idea why this could be happening I would appreciate the insight. I was thinking that maybe some of the MSM specific solenoids were interfering or something but I am not even sure they are in use at all with the MS2.
Other than that I am completely happy with the ECU so far and I have picked up a lot of midrange power where the stock ECU use to bog down the engine. the car is only running 5psi right now and I plan to turn it up slowly to 14 psi by the end of this week to see what it can really do.
Sixshooter got my idle running perfectly pretty quickly by just adjusting my idle up a bit from 850 to around 1050 to stop the car from almost stalling everytime the fans kicked on. It also handled my A/C better this way. While he was messing with my idle I checked to see when the coolant warning light kicked on and it started to blink right around ~195 degrees instead of at 217. Reverant, If you could let me know how to adjust this I would really appreciate it as the light is rather annoying.
When we went out for a drive we noticed that in heavy loads the base map was rather rich so we focused on leaning that out for a little while and we found a rather strange anomaly. Right at 5K rpms my car goes incredibly rich, 9.5:1 or something like that. It only does this between4800-5200 and then it behaves normally again. The autotune will not tune this out and if it is adjusted manually and then autotune is allowed to mess with those cells it makes it really rich again. We can not figure out why it is doing this so we set autotune to only tune to 4500 and later I will tune above 5200. Until I can figure out this issue I will leave that dead area at the manual settings we put in there.
If anyone has any idea why this could be happening I would appreciate the insight. I was thinking that maybe some of the MSM specific solenoids were interfering or something but I am not even sure they are in use at all with the MS2.
Other than that I am completely happy with the ECU so far and I have picked up a lot of midrange power where the stock ECU use to bog down the engine. the car is only running 5psi right now and I plan to turn it up slowly to 14 psi by the end of this week to see what it can really do.
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11-12-2012, 10:30 PM
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I had some free time today because my federally funded employer gave us the day off for Veteran's Day. My MBC was not easy to dial in correctly when I was tuning full throttle pulls and the EBC is all around better so I decided to install it. I picked up a light switch block-off plate from Home Depot for like 55 cents and made a quick bracket for my GM boost solenoid. It isn't pretty right now but it works and I will cut off the excess and spray paint it black later.
I really need to clean up my engine bay but that will be for another day.
I went out for a drive to make sure it was working and I happened upon this interesting specimen.
It has a porsche badge on it but it looked like a kit car on the inside. I could be wrong and if anyone knows what it is let me know. I would have got some pictures of the inside but the owner and some of his friends came outside and I needed to go.
I really need to clean up my engine bay but that will be for another day.
I went out for a drive to make sure it was working and I happened upon this interesting specimen.
It has a porsche badge on it but it looked like a kit car on the inside. I could be wrong and if anyone knows what it is let me know. I would have got some pictures of the inside but the owner and some of his friends came outside and I needed to go.
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11-13-2012, 10:36 AM
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^ Looks like a Porsche 550, maybe a replica. Either way pretty neat.
Porsche 550 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Porsche 550 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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11-13-2012, 02:00 PM
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Yeah I am 99% sure it was a replica. The interior didn't look like the picture of Ralph Lauren's. It was much more plain with visible frame/cage supports. It was still very interesting though.
Back on topic... I haven't been able to do much tuning in regards to the EBC but I noticed that in third gear it pulls like a train but in fourth it is rather underwhelming until I get up to like 4500 rpm.
Should I be tuning it with the boost duty cycle tables manually or should I use PID instead? Both?
Back on topic... I haven't been able to do much tuning in regards to the EBC but I noticed that in third gear it pulls like a train but in fourth it is rather underwhelming until I get up to like 4500 rpm.
Should I be tuning it with the boost duty cycle tables manually or should I use PID instead? Both?
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11-13-2012, 03:08 PM
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I didn't really have time to stick around and chat and I figured it would be really awkward to walk up take a few pics and then walk away without engaging him.
I thought about asking if it was a replica but I did not want to offend in case it was real. This was in front of a Bonefish that often has Ferrari's, SLS AMG's, Lambo's and all that jazz so it attracts the type of person that might get angry if you label their classic as a replica.
I thought about asking if it was a replica but I did not want to offend in case it was real. This was in front of a Bonefish that often has Ferrari's, SLS AMG's, Lambo's and all that jazz so it attracts the type of person that might get angry if you label their classic as a replica.
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11-21-2012, 10:39 PM
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So I thought I knew what I was going to do for my suspension but then I read a thread I had never seen before and it altered my plan a little. This is the thread (Post #9 and everything else he posts are the relevant parts):
Verify susspension choices...
I was originally going to go with 450/300 spring rates and make a coilover around the MSM bilstein's for the best cost benefit for my level of use. I chose those spring rates because that was the highest I had heard that the Bilstein's could handle properly but after reading his posts I am inclined to maybe go for 600/400 like he suggests.
Does anybody have any input on this? Don't say something stupid like xida's/FCM or bust because I am not spending 2k on coilovers when I do not competitively race. I know the MSM bilstein's are more than adequate with the right modifications for what I need so it does not make sense to blow the budget.
Verify susspension choices...
I was originally going to go with 450/300 spring rates and make a coilover around the MSM bilstein's for the best cost benefit for my level of use. I chose those spring rates because that was the highest I had heard that the Bilstein's could handle properly but after reading his posts I am inclined to maybe go for 600/400 like he suggests.
Does anybody have any input on this? Don't say something stupid like xida's/FCM or bust because I am not spending 2k on coilovers when I do not competitively race. I know the MSM bilstein's are more than adequate with the right modifications for what I need so it does not make sense to blow the budget.
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11-21-2012, 10:47 PM
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Normally I would have taken what he said with a grain of salt and discarded it. However, he seems to know what he is talking about and explains it in context of the shock dyno of MSM bilstein's campared to that of xida's. He could be completely wrong which is why I wanted to bring it over here where I know we have some experts on suspension to see if his reasoning is legit.
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11-21-2012, 11:01 PM
#79
I'm not even close to an expert, but most "experts on here" claim 400 is tops for the msm billies
Also his analogy makes sense, except he doesn't really give you any tips on that magical "in between" that everyone wants.
saying 800lb springs on a daily is acceptable is retarded. I realize the whole "springs don't affect comfort in the way that most think on a miata" argument, but anyone claiming you can daily on 600 or 800 springs has either driven on the street like 1 time for like 10 minutes, or doesn't notice the teeth shattering bumps cause they have a permanent ***** up their *** set on full vibrate. Even with proper shocks the ride is still terrible on the street. Keep in mind those little imperfections that most say are so completely un-noticeable, are like 80% of what you'll feel, and those big bumps are like 20% at the most. as long as your setup is OK on those big ones not shattering your bump stops, having something soft enough to absorb the little ones is WAY more pleasant than something that will let you feel every single ripple in the road.
Also his analogy makes sense, except he doesn't really give you any tips on that magical "in between" that everyone wants.
saying 800lb springs on a daily is acceptable is retarded. I realize the whole "springs don't affect comfort in the way that most think on a miata" argument, but anyone claiming you can daily on 600 or 800 springs has either driven on the street like 1 time for like 10 minutes, or doesn't notice the teeth shattering bumps cause they have a permanent ***** up their *** set on full vibrate. Even with proper shocks the ride is still terrible on the street. Keep in mind those little imperfections that most say are so completely un-noticeable, are like 80% of what you'll feel, and those big bumps are like 20% at the most. as long as your setup is OK on those big ones not shattering your bump stops, having something soft enough to absorb the little ones is WAY more pleasant than something that will let you feel every single ripple in the road.
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11-21-2012, 11:11 PM
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Maybe I am weird but I like feeling the little imperfections in the road. It makes me feel like I am one with the car if that makes sense. I can feel everything the suspension is doing.
I hate driving cars that most people think are comfy because I can't tell wtf is going on beneath me. I don't want a ride that is super harsh but most of what I consider harsh is the kind of jars you get from the bumpstops.
I for instance find the current ride quality of the MSM with the low profile 17's completely acceptable. It is far from perfect and bottoms out too much with the soft springs but it in no way bothers me. Most people complain about how harsh it is and I just don't understand it. I figure once I switch to 15's with a higher sidewall that stiff springs would not bother me.
I may just go with 450/300 like I was planning originally but the 600/400 really peaked my interest when he actually went into the data explaining why it would work correctly.
I hate driving cars that most people think are comfy because I can't tell wtf is going on beneath me. I don't want a ride that is super harsh but most of what I consider harsh is the kind of jars you get from the bumpstops.
I for instance find the current ride quality of the MSM with the low profile 17's completely acceptable. It is far from perfect and bottoms out too much with the soft springs but it in no way bothers me. Most people complain about how harsh it is and I just don't understand it. I figure once I switch to 15's with a higher sidewall that stiff springs would not bother me.
I may just go with 450/300 like I was planning originally but the 600/400 really peaked my interest when he actually went into the data explaining why it would work correctly.
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