Went to Sebring this weekend. Saturday was dry but for some sprinkles. Sunday was alternating heavy rain and light rain.

Here is video of the awesome rain session from Sunday. I broke it into two parts so you could see everything from the start. There were only six of us actually crazy enough to run in this session and I was a little late getting to the grid so the others were already out there. It was very slick in spots, grippy in others, and deep in several. The track doesn't drain like a crowned roadway does by design. You need fast hands to catch it when it tries to spin. I <3 Rain-X.

Wow I can't believe you tracked in that weather. The crowned streets were not draining so well on my side of the bay. ---- was crazy. I think I saw atleast 30 cars yesterday stalled out in random streets because they tried to go through the floods. Looks like you had fun though.

Jesus, a 2.5 minute pit-out? No wonder Forza didn't include pits for Sebring.

Lol, it's a wee bit quicker in the dry, but it is still 3.7 miles around it.

Second session Saturday morning - passed blue 240Z early on but eventually he started to catch back up so I pushed it until I went too far and locked up a wheel or two in a braking zone, so I released the brake and just went off track:


First session Saturday:

I bought a replacement oil pressure gauge kit. My sender and OPG that came out of my '93 parts car flipped out on the track Saturday. It fluttered spastically for about a lap and then suddenly went to zero !

There is still plenty of oil being pumped into the valvetrain but the sending unit diaphragm is probably toast. New ones are $135!

For quite a bit less than that I bought a new 52mm Prosport Premium Series gauge kit that has a new sending unit, stepper motor internals, warning w/audible alert and flashing lights. The gauge face rapidly flashes from white to red and back when you go below the limits you set.

Now where do I put it?

jesus, i watched the wet videos... you have some cojones...

You should have gotten one small enough to fit in the stock location, those always look good.

Sav will tell you to tape it directly in front of you, like, on your visor.

Meh, probably just stupid, lol.

I thought I would learn a lot about the car and the track doing it and I guess I did.

I would have gotten a smaller, 45mm gauge but it wouldn't have the warning feature. Frankly, the warning feature means you can put it somewhere other than your line of sight.

I am so tempted to get that Oil Pressure Sensor and gauge. Any clue if it will screw into the stock location? Also if it will work to input to MS?

IDK about the first part. IDK about the second part too.

I think the stock location is a British pipe thread and the sender stuff for prosport is typically NPT.

I have the stock location and my sandwich adapter to choose from. The sandwich plate has 1/8 NPT so hopefully everything will be fine. The stock '93 sender is already on an adapter tee to allow for the turbo oil feed so I could change adapters if necessary and make it work.

The BP engine uses a 1/8NPT threading for the sensor. I measured the stock one with a die set.

For your perusal, some track pictures from Homestead Miami Speedway:

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Well, time to reveal the postmortem of the turbo. The turbine shaft shows no real wear at all, but the bronze CHRA bushings are worn significantly. The turbine shaft has a bit of bluing between the two bushings which indicates some excess heat was present. The compressor wheel has a little wear due to contact with the compressor housing. The turbine has no marks demonstrating it made any contact with the turbine housing.

For some added excitement I found that the compressor nut was loose when I began the disassembly!

I am suspicious as to whether the amount of oil to the turbo was sufficient. The bluing is the cause of this concern. I have put the oil feed line into a jug and verified that oil is flowing though it when the engine is running but have no way of determining whether the volume is adequate.

I still question the possible role of the BOV but have no good way to single it out as a cause either. It is troubling to have no definitive answer.

I will purchase a rebuild kit for the turbo and will install it but meanwhile I am toying with the idea of installing the Chinese turbine housing onto the Garrett CHRA from the oil cooled 2860 I was originally going to use. This would allow me to use the downpipe and everything will be in the same location I already have. I test fitted it and it goes together pretty well. I guess it won't hurt to play around with it. It couldn't hurt to try it out.

I may look at increasing the oil hose's smallest diameter opening to let a little more oil flow in case that is the root problem.

No pics of the parts because I suck, lol.

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I was going to use a garrett turbine wheel and housing on a china CHRA and compressor wheel, but I got lazy and just used all the china parts.

If everything fits, it fits.

Replacement Chinese 2870 installed with proper feed line and return line in time for my track day at Sebring this weekend.

I didn't wreck or break the car so I guess I won the track day. Although I tried to plow a field by turning in too late into turn 16.
Here's the evidence:

Installed Hard Dog door bars this weekend. They tie in to the lower front mounts of the Hard Dog roll bar. They are much less intrusive than I thought.

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Door bars stopped the hard top from squeaking so the must be doing something.

For those that have not followed along closely, the turbo failure was due to improper oil feed line materials. It dissolved the inside of the line.

My oil pump relief valve seems to be sticking open intermittently, reducing the oil pressure especially at low RPMs.