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In Soviet Russia car build YOU!

Old Sep 26, 2012 | 01:30 PM
  #761  
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Thats a badass chair to get for free! Even more so when you wear that to sit in it. Do you have a TV for that remote or is it just for imagining a TV on the wall?

You're so close now, sub'd to see this thing run. BTW are you selling your old ebay rad?

Also, thank you for the beautiful turbo pics, they help for my own imagining of nice things.
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #762  
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I sold the radiator.
I do have the front brakes (m-tuned corrado brackets, corrado rotors, 1.8 calipers, ss lines, porterfield r4s and carbotech xp10 pads).
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:47 PM
  #763  
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In addition to buying race safety gear and doing lemons, I'll be going to Argentina in December to climb the highest ******* mountain outside of Himalayas

dis bitch

22841 feet (or 6962 m) of freeze-your-*** glory.
atmosphere at summit is around 40% oxygen compared on sea-level.
average temperature in summer (when we're going, cause it's the southern hemisphere) is like -20F with windchill
Attached Thumbnails In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-.aaa-aerial-view-aconcagua..jpg  
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #764  
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please have your affairs in order, specifically with your car to be bequeathed to me, before you leave.
Old Sep 26, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #765  
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The best or nothing. I like it.

Originally Posted by soviet
I got that chair for free...
As said above, that is a fantastic chair to score for free - especially with the fold-out foot prop. I approve very much of just about everything of yours in this thread, including your adventure sports.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 02:55 PM
  #766  
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Tried to get the car started yesterday - surprise, didn't quite work.

The crank sensors on 99-05 and 96-97 are different. 99-05 is a hall effect, 96-97 is a VR sensor. Both are 3 wire but the difference is wiring -
- Hall effect is signal, ground, +12V
- VR is signal, ground, shield
So as you may have guessed I wired my VR sensor as Hall. Oops. No damage, just had to redo it.

After I rewired it, I started getting RPM signal but with sync loss reason #2 code (missing tooth at wrong time) at regular intervals. I guess I have to adjust the VR pots on the megasquirt board.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #767  
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why adjust the pots? sounds like you entered the wrong angle on the wheel for the tooth if there's a pattern to the input/error
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #768  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
why adjust the pots?
Turning ***** fix things?
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #769  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
why adjust the pots? sounds like you entered the wrong angle on the wheel for the tooth if there's a pattern to the input/error
Because it's not reading the teeth correctly so the missing tooth randomly shows up as tooth, like, #45 instead of #36. You know? e.g. it's reading noise as teeth or something.

Wrong angle would just mean I'd have +60 degree advance
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 03:09 PM
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okay gotcha brah.
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 11:50 PM
  #771  
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Played around with the VR pots and was able to start the car
For some reason I had to turn both pots fully clockwise... manual says fully counter-clockwise. Who knows?

dat signal.
red is cam, green is crank.


how I modified the CAS

outer ring is, normally, crank signal so I had to change the CAS crank wire to go into cam input on MS3X

I haven't figured out the exact angle yet (gotta confirm with timing light) but it's somewhere between 90-80*.
Attached Thumbnails In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-36-1wheel.png   In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-dsc_2141.jpg  
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:13 AM
  #772  
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car runs good. idle control is still wonky a little bit and now with a new radiator fan there's a good 250rpm drop when it engages.

180 thermostat is back in the car as well (vs 160 before)

tomorrow I'll secure all the wiring and go for a drive
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:19 AM
  #773  
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Originally Posted by soviet
car runs good. idle control is still wonky a little bit and now with a new radiator fan there's a good 250rpm drop when it engages.

180 thermostat is back in the car as well (vs 160 before)

tomorrow I'll secure all the wiring and go for a drive
Why am do idle control drop RPM when fan turn on. ? System voltage dropping to *****?
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:21 AM
  #774  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Why am do idle control drop RPM when fan turn on. ? System voltage dropping to *****?
Inrush current, and extra load on the alternator. I have my fans wired in parallel, but I really need to undo it as I see even more drop than Soviet when they come on.
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:22 AM
  #775  
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Increase load on alternator -> motor turn slower.

I'm supposed to be running closed loop idle control but I think I broke it again (logs show duty % never going past minimum value)
MS3 also has "fan on +additional idle %" setting that I couldn't get to work either.

But I spent maybe 5 minutes dicking around with it. New fan and radiator is SUPER EFFECTIVE
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #776  
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Originally Posted by soviet
with a new radiator fan there's a good 250rpm drop when it engages.

There's an idle up for that im sure youre not using.
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 12:11 PM
  #777  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
There's an idle up for that im sure youre not using.
There is, I tried it (briefly) without any effect. It's just a fixed % idle duty idle up
:(
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 12:43 PM
  #778  
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son, ...

need i continue the meme?
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 01:33 PM
  #779  
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:|
I'll fix it tonight. ughh!
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #780  
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drove the car.
runs great. makes some random noises still (things rubbing and what not). wastegate unscrewed itself. idle a bit wonky. but it runs and boosts

I held my camera in my mouth and made this video - darth vader style. it's night, obiously.


spool is roughly the same (guessing 100rpm worse)
the "sensor01" is turbine speed, in thousands
Attached Thumbnails In Soviet Russia car build YOU!-efr6758-first-drive.png  

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