@Bird: I'm working on this ---- pretty much in all of my spare time, lol.

@Viper
http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-00-Mazda-...#ht_1048wt_906
Baller timing belt kit.
It doesn't include the tensioner spring which kind of bummed me out.... Also the water pump gaskets are cheap ----.. but hey, baller black pulleys. IDK how well they will work, though. They aren't smooth - have a bit of a texture on them. We'll see.

 

Hey guys.
Quick question for anyone who knows anything about welding.

I decided to get an -8AN bung welded to my oil pan. First I tapped it pan right below the turbo but it didn't work out. The 3/8 NPT to -8AN fitting bottomed out and still wasn't tight. I either stripped the threads, tapped it wrong, or the fitting is ----. In either case I doubt it would seal.

So, I found a place to get it welded. How should I prepare it? The fitting is 22mm wide, the current hole is about 16mm. Should I enlarge the hole? To how big? 22mm? or make it larger so the weld can seal the gap?

Please educate me.

 

Also this is how the drain line looked like (and will be once the bung is welded)
I just hope it doesn't interfere with the steering shaft.

 

How do you like the black nylon AN Lines?

 

They are quite nice but I never dealt with regular ss lines so can't compare!

 

Are eBay timing kits worth the cash? Or are they total crap?

 

I have used eBay timing belt kits for years, you just need to make sure it comes with a GMB water pump.

 

Huh, roger. Thanks SHOES!

 

Hey, can I buy the driver fender from you?

or swap for a really really shitty one?

 

On the weld fitting.. Just make the hole as big as the inside dia of the fitting. Is it flush with the pan? Leave as much pan as you can for the welder(heat soak). The cleaner the material the better, oil free too.

 

I check back on this and you're rocking EFR?

VERY good progress indeed lol

 

yep, I went from poor man's turbo to baller status.

 

On the weld, like the guy previous said you want the hole to be as close fitting to
The threads as possible. The more aluminum there will be easier to weld.

 

Absolutely love the single tag to this thread. Looking good dude.

 

K thanks guys. The OD of the fitting is 7/8". I thought about just using a stepper drill bit but instead I'll enlarge the hole with a dremel. I want to move it a bit so there's more room to weld next to the "rib".

 

delays, delays, delays

but I got the oil pan back from local shop. they welded the bung on and I finished the oil drain and hulked the engine into the car.

i'd write more but I gotta sleep and work and shiт







there are a few things i'm not happy about but i'll fix them later. tomorrow the rear subframe + diff + ppf are going in.

 

I like what you did with the coolant line, just tapped it into the speed sensor hole!! Man that stuff looks sexy in your super clean engine bay. I'm glad it will be put to use on a built motor track beast!

 

I'm actually going to change the water lines around. I can't get the water inlet hooked, and I don't like the loop the outlet does.

Yeah I bought these hose holder things and they are pretty handy!

For now I'm going to just throw the engine harness in there but eventually full tuck with fusebox (and eventually tiny battery) in the passenger seat.

 

Oh hey also forgot to link you to this: it's considered the EFR bible.

http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf

What made me think of it is that just to remind you, the "bottom" water port should be the inlet, and "top" one should be outlet. They suggest that so that it purges any possible air from inside the water jacket in the turbo.

 

yeah I read that thing, well, most of it! it's awesome.

I actually stripped one of the water plugs already :( they are soft and tightened like a motherfuсker. luckly I found a m14x1.5 plug that should work and fit. for the inlet I'll use an m14 to 1/8npt adapter and a 90* barbed fitting. should work as well and then all the lines will be basically hidden