it puts out moar powa

 

The FD RX7 alts are 100A (some of them)

Speaking of 100A alts.... Subaru H6 engines have 100A alts that are internally regulated and are piece of cake to remove.



Product Detail - 12289 MIIIA3TB Reman Alternator | Remy

 

It puts out more juice? But but but thats more draw on the engine so you make less powah. And it must be heavier from the more winds. Its like 2 steps backwards.

 

if the electical system demands are the same, the bigger alternator will not consume any more HP. just because it's 100A doesn't mean it produces 100A all the time - only when the voltage regulator tells it to.

more weight, yes, unfortunately.

 

don't buy alts at rock auto. get a 30% off coupon from advance auto parts and order there. you tend to get alts under $100.

 

Well, my jeep is waiting on new pads after one of the front pad wore down to the metal (apparently the squeal wear indicator was missing from those cheap *** pads). So I grabbed the Jeep battery, put it in the miata - and lo and behold, all driveability and stalling issues disappear. I test the miata battery only to find out its basically discharging on its own (!), meaning it most likely has a dead cell. Still on warranty - just gotta wait for Pep Boys to get the replacement from their warehouse.

With the Jeep battery I went out for some tuning/pulls.

Good news! Still spinning 3rd gear, despite it being summer. The bad news is that it looks like I need a new fuel filter. You know how they say you should change your fuel filter after 100 miles of E85? Well, I guess its 100% true. I'm at about 140 miles on E85 and fuel pressure drops like a rock in boost. Voltage is solid so its either the fuel pump dying or clogged fuel filter. Fuel pressure sensor is BALLER!

Observe. Fuel pressure is displayed as [fuel pressure] - [boost pressure], to get accurate fuel pressure differential at the injectors.

 

Virtual dyno puts the above pull (23-22psi) at 324ft/lbs tq. My 400whp dyno was at 326ft/lbs - at 26psi.

Even with the plugged filter and shitty AFRs (i'm targeting 12.2 in boost - because E85) the car still makes boat loads of power.

Compared to a pull last week at different boost and AFRs

 

Can you post your virtual dyno pull log?

 

log attached

 

Damn that EFR spools fast. Still old GT2871 seems to keep up surprisingly well if you compare boost levels between those two. Although I believe it’s due my Ign timing: http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/e85timingm.gif

 

Soviet, couple of questions if that's OK?

1) Have you tried the HP/TQ dyno output from Tunerstudio beta if so I'm wondering how well it compares to Virtual Dyno.

If you've not, it's a function on the tunerstudio beta's that add's HP/TQ estimation into a datalog, it uses all the inputs from the MS plus whatever additional data you can add Cod, frontal area, gearing, GPS if you have it etc.

2) Is that run to redline? I notice your knock events go to 100% but on that screengrab they don't look to be much higher than 30%? On my car above 4.5 - 5k they almost flatline, I've had to reduce the gain to the absolute minimum to stop them flatlining, but I'm worried now that I just won't pick up any lighter knock events.

I'm using the OEM MK2.5 resonant sensor, is that the same sensor you are using?

 

muoto, Don't you have an NB? And its heavier and all... I actually know my car's exact weight.

I use a Bosch knock sensor with ms3 knock board. I think its pretty much useless. The values go to 100% because I set the min/max in MegaLogViewer. My knock readings *always* look like that and I think its just valvetrain noise. I also have it set on lowest gain possible.

That pull wasnt to redline because there was too much traffic and I was afraid of attracting police attention

I haven't checked megasquirt's torque thing, but virtual dyno has been very very very accurate compared to dynojet.

 

Yeah NB so it’s probably close to 2600lbs with driver which gives extra 25whp to that virtual dyno graph


It is very accurate! Last time when I played it in local Dyno Dynamics dyno. Results were 3-5% close each other. DD gave 284whp and after that virtual dyno 287whp (these with old GT2560)

 

Your BMEP per MAP is very close to 200psi, which would be impossible for gasoline.

 

he's on e85

 

 

perfect

 

You think MS3's knock sensing is useless, or that sensor isn't much use?

Have you played with the knock windowing? I we - as in the MX5/miata community - need to nail that to reduce the amount of external noise picked up. It's good to know that I don't just have a faulty engine or anything though, so thanks.

I'd heard it was very accurate, that's why I wondered how it compared to TunerStudio's version. It's nice only running 1 program rather than two

 

No, the MS3 knock sensing is great, probably one of the best - its just useless on *MY* engine and I could never get a good reading out of it. Knock sensing on E85 is kind of pointless anyways. You need like 120C/250F air intake temperature for it to knock, lol

 

Well I have one half of that equation, shame it's the wrong half