133+ And thats with like a 1.4 60'.

 

possibly. that '13 stg1 I tuned a couple weeks ago just ran 13.08 @ 103 yesterday in the heat.

with you not knowing how to use dbw I'd expect a solid 15.5 from you
nope. he doesn't have a fail 06-07
JayL ran an 11.2 @ 123 iirc
Decent soft launch on DR's and he was at 390

 

Yeah so 125+ for high 10s.
I'll just go trap that and claim I have a 10 second car

 

Wrong! That is enough to get into the 9's.

You will need to be in the low 120's with a car that is hooking properly. I went 10.60's (or was it 10.80's Damn I can't remember) at 126 MPH with 60's only in the high 1.6's

Edit: I think I have seen professionally set up cars hit 10's at 119 or so, but you really have to have everything set just for drag racing which the normal Joe does not usually do.

 

I just took the Wallace racing optimal 1/4 stats calculator and put 10.0 in for ET.

 

Or a 9.99.

 

To be fair, we aren't talking about hooking properly since Soviet doesn't have the drivetrain to do so. Obviously the better you hook up the lower your trap speed can be to get to 10s.

 

I think you might be surprised what the Miata drivetrain will hold up to if it is tuned properly. Most people break axles because of ride height problems. Slicks act like a cushion unlike wheel hopping radials that act like a jack hammer on soft tissue.

Apexonyou went into the 11's with a stock 5 speed, and I have gone a 1.71 60' with a stock diff on slicks.

 

For ride height, you want to adjust it so that axles are parallel to the ground, right?

 

I'm getting sick and tired of you living your life and basing all your logic on these online calculators.

I'm gonna neg every single one of your future posts that refers to a stupid calculator like this.

50% of all your posts are complete and utter lies simply because you rely on anything but actual real world experience/data/feedback. Stick with what you know from real life PLEASE!!

Key contributors to both his and your success are weight redux and lots of prep though. That's not really applicable to most of us unless we get serious about drag racing.

 

I think you want them even a little bit slanted down because once it squats you want them to be parallel.

Same with camber: you want it positive so that once it squats it doesn't go negative.

But that's all more for the serious drag racer, like miata2fast

 

Bingo! But I would add that you want to tune out the amount of squat to a degree.

Vlad, you fail to see my point entirely. It is not really that I did lots of special mods that were drag oriented only. I simply made a few tuning changes that made it very livable on the street, or could be easily changed if I decided to change the type of motorsport. The biggest change was the fact that I had a set of dedicated slicks for drag strip duties. The design element of drag tires is they do not pound on the chassis as hard as street or road race tires and reduces the chance of breaking parts.

I am not suggesting you will not break parts, but you will lesson the chances if you choose wisely.

By the way, the 1.71 60' time was when my car was bone stock on nitrous with only the air conditioner removed as well as the passenger seat. There was no extensive weight reduction at the time, nor did I have the ability or knowledge to tune the suspension.

 

No I see it clearly. And I agree. I guess our understanding of "prepped" is different though". Mine more lazy than yours lol

You're like "well I pulled off a couple parts and threw on slicks and voila, nothing special". To me that's like "whoa that's weight redux and investing in a whole set of separate tires just for the 1 or 2 times I'll visit the track".

Just different mindsets

But yeah of course you're right: reducing weight and adding a tire that prevents the jack-hammer effect are 2 very potent improvements one should consider when drag racing, and to most not really a lot of money or effort.

PS: apexonyou was significantly gutted

Back on topic:

so when is this soviet tank going to the drag strip?

 

I might be going on August 9 for test and tune.
There aren't a lot of tracks close :(

 

Raised boost to 26psi and went to MD to visit my parents.


Take that log with a grain of salt though because the place I recorded it is not my normal road. Its a bit of uphill and then levels out. Its also a bit bumpy and I think one of those bumps caused me to spin a wheel a bit, leading to RPM and hence Virtual Dyno TQ spike at the end.

What I can tell you FOR SURE is that the car is fastest its ever been.
88.1% duty!

 

******* nice man! jelly.

 

Looks seriously fast
DAT ultra solid boost
But yeah obviously not accurate past 6200

 

Yeah I want to do another pull tonight... Just gotta wait till laaaaaaate at night!

 

boys and girls
my clutch is slipping

it slips in 5th between 5700 and 6200 rpm (or so)
its an old 6 puck act clutch with extreme pressure plate that was originally rated for 405ft/lbs

 

Here's what Virtual Dyno thinks (for the lulz)


Difference between runs is about 5* in timing. Red "High Timing" line is 15* @ 3500rpm rising to almost 20* at redline.