TSE EFR NB2 Build Thread
05-19-2017, 12:36 AM
#724
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On a more serious note, I'm having an issue with my oil temp gauge reading 230-255 all the time. Like, when I go to start the car up in the morning, I turn the key to let the fuel pump prime and the gauge says 23x. So would this be an issue with the sensor or with the gauge itself?
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05-19-2017, 04:15 AM
#725
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On a more serious note, I'm having an issue with my oil temp gauge reading 230-255 all the time. Like, when I go to start the car up in the morning, I turn the key to let the fuel pump prime and the gauge says 23x. So would this be an issue with the sensor or with the gauge itself?
--Ian
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05-19-2017, 01:24 PM
#729
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Where is the gauge, and where is the sensor routed? Is it consistently broken, or just intermittent?
Start by checking for physical damage. If it looks OK, then unplug the sensor from the gauge and use your DVM to check the resistance across it. (it's a thermistor, right? Not a thermocouple?). That'll tell you if it's the gauge or the sensor.
--Ian
Start by checking for physical damage. If it looks OK, then unplug the sensor from the gauge and use your DVM to check the resistance across it. (it's a thermistor, right? Not a thermocouple?). That'll tell you if it's the gauge or the sensor.
--Ian
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05-19-2017, 02:35 PM
#730
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You can see where the gauge is in the t-hill vid (under the radio). The sensor wire is routed through the firewall. I put the sensor itself in the drain plug, so I drilled a hole through the drain plug and stuck it in there. The gauge constantly shows over 230. But it does move up to 255ish. I have no idea what the difference is between a terminator and a thermocouple. I'll Google it. But it just looks like a brass nub basically. I posted a pic of the sensor a couple pages back or something.
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05-19-2017, 03:49 PM
#734
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Dollars to donuts its the ground at the sensor.
Attach a wire to a known, good, solid, clean ground point somewhere on the car. Strip back 2"+ of insulation off the other end of said wire and wrap it around the exposed metal BODY of the sensor, preferably around the threaded portion that is exposed becauseNPT. Secure with small hose clamp. Report results.
Attach a wire to a known, good, solid, clean ground point somewhere on the car. Strip back 2"+ of insulation off the other end of said wire and wrap it around the exposed metal BODY of the sensor, preferably around the threaded portion that is exposed becauseNPT. Secure with small hose clamp. Report results.
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05-19-2017, 05:08 PM
#736
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A thermistor is a resistor whose resistance varies with temperature. The gauge for one is basically just an ohmmeter with a different scale on the front. They're really cheap and really simple, most oil & coolant gauges are thermistors.
A thermocouple is a device where two wires of different metals will generate a voltage between them, and that voltage depends on the difference in temperature between the ends. They're more precise and faster than thermistors, but also more expensive and harder to use. The voltage they make is really small, so you need a very precise amplifier circuit to read them. Thermocouples are usually only used for EGT.
Anyway, yes, I agree that the problem is probably related to the 1-wire sensor. Generally speaking, a dedicated ground wire is much better.
--Ian
A thermocouple is a device where two wires of different metals will generate a voltage between them, and that voltage depends on the difference in temperature between the ends. They're more precise and faster than thermistors, but also more expensive and harder to use. The voltage they make is really small, so you need a very precise amplifier circuit to read them. Thermocouples are usually only used for EGT.
Anyway, yes, I agree that the problem is probably related to the 1-wire sensor. Generally speaking, a dedicated ground wire is much better.
--Ian
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05-21-2017, 08:13 PM
#738
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Welp, I signed up for a track day at Laguna on the 8th as a reward for finishing finals. I haven't messed with my car yet, too busy studying for next week (finals). But this means ill have the next week off, so I will mess with it then and report back about the grounding situation. I also really need to find out where my downpipe is vibrating. Its driving me nuts.
I also ordered blueprinted front hubs a few days ago in hopes that they will fix my pad knock back issue. Fingers crossed.
I also ordered blueprinted front hubs a few days ago in hopes that they will fix my pad knock back issue. Fingers crossed.
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06-02-2017, 02:26 PM
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The new front hubs came in a couple days ago. I didn't bother to remove my ARP studs from my old hubs and transfer them over. It was a nightmare for me last time I did it so I just ordered the hubs with the studs installed. Anyone want some front ARP studs?
While I was in there, I threw on the drivers side 3' duct. I mentioned in a previous post how I wasn't able to install it at the track due to a stuck bolt. Well, that bolt snapped when I tried to remove it. But thankfully I was able to remove it by using a tiny drill bit and going in diagonally.
I have also had a pretty bad oil leak ever sense I fixed the oil seals. It looks to be coming from right above the oil feed block. Its just really odd that it started happening right after I changed the oil seals
What makes it even worse it that to even get to that fitting I have to remove all the stuff below it (oil feed block/line/pressure sender) and that is not easy because I have very little access to it. I have a feeling that its tight and is coming from somewhere else but its the only sport that I can visually see oil coming from. 
While I was in there, I threw on the drivers side 3' duct. I mentioned in a previous post how I wasn't able to install it at the track due to a stuck bolt. Well, that bolt snapped when I tried to remove it. But thankfully I was able to remove it by using a tiny drill bit and going in diagonally.
I have also had a pretty bad oil leak ever sense I fixed the oil seals. It looks to be coming from right above the oil feed block. Its just really odd that it started happening right after I changed the oil seals
What makes it even worse it that to even get to that fitting I have to remove all the stuff below it (oil feed block/line/pressure sender) and that is not easy because I have very little access to it. I have a feeling that its tight and is coming from somewhere else but its the only sport that I can visually see oil coming from. 
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06-02-2017, 09:31 PM
#740
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I have also not gotten around to fixing the ground issue with my oil temp gauge. But I've been thinking about it. if I insulate the signal wire with rubber, couldnt I just crimp on a ring tounge connector onto the ground wire and do it that way? As opposed to wrapping/taping the ground wire around the brass body of the sensor?
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