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TURBO AUTO NB

Old Oct 5, 2016 | 09:01 PM
  #61  
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Why not a dedicated set of slicks for the track?
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 09:13 PM
  #62  
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Maybe in future but at the moment cars are sending me broke

i think theese yokohamas will be more than my axels can handle has anyone tried the 400hp units from the drive shaft shop ?
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 09:26 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by mx5psi
micky thompson ET street R's
Can confirm these things stick.
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 09:46 PM
  #64  
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Damn the budgets. Slicks will be the best dollar you spend if you get the right ones.

You will find drag slicks are foregiving, even more so coupled with an auto trans. Don't worry about axles until you start breaking them.

Old Oct 5, 2016 | 09:52 PM
  #65  
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It will happen its all a learning curve as iam not a seasoned drag racer

i think suspension will be equally important as well

im thinking about stich welding the door frame and solid mounting this hardtop before i go
Old Oct 5, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #66  
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Suspension becomes important when you get really competitive, or when trying to get radials to work. Today's drag tires are really really good. I do plenty of drag racing, and experience has taught me there is no better investment than the right tires.

The key is choose wisely. Most people make the mistake of going too big. The right tire for a Miata will look shockingly small depending on power.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:03 AM
  #67  
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I am taking your advice and getting M&H slicks when I have a few more bucks.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
Suspension becomes important when you get really competitive, or when trying to get radials to work. Today's drag tires are really really good. I do plenty of drag racing, and experience has taught me there is no better investment than the right tires.

The key is choose wisely. Most people make the mistake of going too big. The right tire for a Miata will look shockingly small depending on power.
I run Mickey thompson ET Street R's, 225-50-15's on my setup. What do you think of those? They are bigger than stock. Seem to work best around 18 psi pressure.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:58 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
I run Mickey thompson ET Street R's, 225-50-15's on my setup. What do you think of those? They are bigger than stock. Seem to work best around 18 psi pressure.
what boost do you launch yours at pat

Old Oct 6, 2016 | 03:45 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by mx5psi
what boost do you launch yours at pat
Around 20-25 PSI with a manual transmission, RPM's vary from 4,200 to 4,800 depending on track conditions.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 05:49 AM
  #71  
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Ok maybe the drive trains stronger than i thought in my head 10-12psi max

my ultimate goal is a 10.99 but i dont know if 400hp and auto is enough

Last edited by mx5psi; Oct 6, 2016 at 06:01 AM.
Old Oct 6, 2016 | 08:00 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by sonofthehill
I am taking your advice and getting M&H slicks when I have a few more bucks.
I think all you need is the 7.5-23-15 for your power level. I think it will be capable of 60' in the 1.6 range. Going bigger will only slow you down on the big end.

Originally Posted by patsmx5
I run Mickey thompson ET Street R's, 225-50-15's on my setup. What do you think of those? They are bigger than stock. Seem to work best around 18 psi pressure.
I think it is a good tire, but drag radials are less forgiving and require a lot more suspension tuning, particularly with manual trans. Once you get it right, they are actually faster than bias tires. Are you getting wheel hop? I get none using bias ply.

my ultimate goal is a 10.99 but i dont know if 400hp and auto is enough[/QUOTE]
That is plenty of power to break in the 10's if you launch hard enough.
Old Oct 9, 2016 | 06:09 AM
  #73  
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Productive day i got a mint condition hardtop with perfect seals and rubbers with frakenstien bolts and demister wiring cheap well cheap for us in oz

side latches are missing but my intention is to solid mount it

i also wired up my auto thermo fan to my unused fog light switch works a treat

Last edited by mx5psi; Oct 9, 2016 at 07:30 AM.
Old Oct 11, 2016 | 05:01 PM
  #74  
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my bluetooth module has arived so i can have music again




Has anyone thought about bumper cuts to reduce drag?
Old Oct 16, 2016 | 01:29 AM
  #75  
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sorry about the video quality i will make more

tyres hook up well on high boost its so much more grip
Old Oct 16, 2016 | 05:01 AM
  #76  
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Finally a video!

Really looking forward to a video at wide open throttle going through the gears!
Old Oct 16, 2016 | 05:32 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
I think all you need is the 7.5-23-15 for your power level. I think it will be capable of 60' in the 1.6 range. Going bigger will only slow you down on the big end.

I think it is a good tire, but drag radials are less forgiving and require a lot more suspension tuning, particularly with manual trans. Once you get it right, they are actually faster than bias tires. Are you getting wheel hop? I get none using bias ply.

.
With a manual it would cut low 1.7 60' times, but the reason for that was mostly to do with the clutch. I swapped to a puck clutch and choose not to slip it out of the hole as I knew that would destroy it fast. It would wheel hop if I tried to dump the clutch out of the hole over about 20 PSI or over 4,500. I could fix that with air, but it slowed me down on the big end. Drag radials are meant for auto cars, not manual, so it should be better now, though I'm sure it won't launch as well until I get a higher stall in it and whatnot. One thing at a time!
Old Oct 16, 2016 | 09:45 AM
  #78  
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Bit worried about the converter at the moment went behind home put it on high boost and raked out third from 80kmh it sat at 6,800rpm and kept pulling like a train

if got a bad feeling converters slipping or maybe 3.63's are too tall for 80 in third

im new to this auto thing on a plus auto holds 25psi and grip
Old Oct 16, 2016 | 04:59 PM
  #79  
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Does it slip in all the gears the same under high load? Just wondering if it's the converter or the clutches in the trans slipping. The rear gears shouldn't matter.
Old Oct 16, 2016 | 05:32 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
Does it slip in all the gears the same under high load? Just wondering if it's the converter or the clutches in the trans slipping. The rear gears shouldn't matter.
i doubt it would be clutches the box is well rated higher and proven in much higher applications

iam going to put it on a friends Dyno tomorrow and see what power it makes and what the curve looks like i think we can work out converter slip with it i need to look it up

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