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When I did my ducting I used 1/8 abs. I got a 4x8ft sheet for under $50. Then used a heat gun to get ot to curve the way I wanted. Then I sealed all the cracks with aluminum tape. Try the splitter then just get the bfw spoiler. Can always run the wing in addition to the spoiler just make the spoiler super low aoa
Until im able get help on properly ducting I may just attempt to create some diverter panels. It won't be awesome but it might be marginally better than this hotdog in a hallway gap the lrb undertray comes with. I'm not using the plastic air guide on the front bumper but might try to pick up a second hand oem undertray to see if it'll mount to something (my subframe also has no provision for oem undertray)
Completed bracket Weather strip to seal against the radiator fins Lower bracket is slotted to accommodate slight manufacturing variations for welded bosses. Upper bracket with spacer integrated (initially was to be separate) Does not contact sway bar and maintains a fan blade distance of 0.7" from the radiator fins.
Today I installed the master cylinder and brake booster. Had to re-cut the spacer but if folks are using an NA/NB1 booster, it looks like a socket cap bolt and the wilwood spacer would allow this to be a drop in item.
If using the nb2 booster, then this black master cylinder is drop in but the push rod has to be adjusted about 1/8" out.
This Ight be an OK alternative for hardline flexibility. If you're comfortable working with flaring and cutting hardlines, this eliminated the need for a tee.
I opted to use the two port prop valve since I busted the handle off to accomodate a remote bias adjustment ****. The baller integrated prop valve with tee is awesome and I half wish I experimented with that first.
It's for sale if anyone is interested.
Im waiting for a 37° double flare and die set to come in to accommodate a - 3AN banjo im using for the passenger side hardline but I hope to bleed this and be back on the road in a week. I have a week to shake the car down before the colonial cup challenge/hpde weekend. No time to install splitter but I do t have a **** to balance that out anyway.
Measured the depth of the hole
Of you could use a button cap screw and the power booster adapter that comes with the wilwood kit. " />Needed to cut a spacer to take up the 0.58"
Of you could use a button cap screw and the power booster adapter that comes with the wilwood kit. Preliminary location for prop valve. Because I eliminated the hood latch system I used the routing and grommet pass-through for the remote adjuster. Trimmed the torsion cable and soldered the end to hopefully shunt cable fraying. I was going to mount this by the old hood release but that was too low and I might kick it entering and exiting.i just mounted it up here since it's free space and accessible.
I gave up on implementing fog lights on the NA because the nb brackets are no where near aligned to where the fog holes are on my NA bumper. This is fine since the car is no longer my daily, I'm just trying to find a way to get this to be a dedicated duct.
The NB1 bezel fits a snug 3.5" piece of PVC which I initially tried with a 4" to 3" reducer. I later found some other PVC bits that fit a tiny bit more loosely but should be OK.
- I cut it to reduce the amount of protrusion from the front....its not going to look pretty since the bezel has a really short edge on one side. It will show some white. I don't know what to paint PVC to make it last so I may just leave it.
- I cut the back end that's threaded only to leave a flange. Itll allow for easier access to hose clamp. I may rivet the PVC into the bumper and the slip the 3" to 2.5" hose reducer in and silicone or just hold it in place from the back end where the hose clamps will tighten against the flange. The silicone reducer had a lip so it'll rest on the PVC and not pass through .
I don't know if this is going to work, but I have my fingers crossed
PVC things?
Spacers after the cut bits are discarded (behind)
3.0-2.5" reducer for silicone hose
Silicone hose reducer nesting in pvc.
Won't pass through, but hose and clamp is accessible from back end.
So the pvc spacer presses into the back of the fog bezels, it pokes a bit but not sure I can help that. Maybe try to stain the pvc a dark color? I imagine paint would just chip in its current location..
Just have to rivet or bolt the pvc into the bumper in 2-3 spots.
The 3"-2.5" reducer slips on in
If this doesn't work, concealer pointed me to the aircraft spruce vents everyone uses. I'm just really bad at fabbing mounts and duct stuff but it's a cheap alternative.
That's just aesthetic, and I can't source Schedule 40 pvc anywhere locally. It should function fine and I'll worry about that later. I kinda just want to get it together. I have a 1 week deadline.
Got the bumper back on and routed the brake ducts. Bled brakes but need to do it again still feels soft. Battery is dead, but the car started with a jump for the first time in several months. Changed oil and found no leaks. Need to sort out an overflow tank, but radiator is full and cycled, need to top off since there was no expansion after Cool down.
Hopefully drive around next week to break in the clutch, job interview mid week, then track day next weekend.
So car is buttoned back up, just some small odds and ends with plastic clips and putting wheels on.
My gf helped me bleed the brakes. Motive power bleeder did a great job flushing fluid, but it just needed a couple old fashioned pump-hold-floor actions to stiffen up.
I am switching over to the PFC 11 pads and got the rears on, the fronts seem to be the wrong pad shape. I ordered the 7752 from OGracing but these look like the thicker 7754 with the notched out center for a bridge bolt. It's 16mm thick instead of 11 (or 12?) there's no way it's going to fit. I hoped to have this on the ground tomorrow.
Ill hope they have these pads in stock so I can pick them up and start bedding.
03-31-2018, 11:33 PM
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