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Hey that is Moore's automotive. I dynoed there about 8/9 years ago.
Yea it way closer than PTuning, it's just down the street from where I grew up. Moore quoted $660 for the clutch change since it's going to be winter and I don't have a driveway.
Yea it way closer than PTuning, it's just down the street from where I grew up. Moore quoted $660 for the clutch change since it's going to be winter and I don't have a driveway.
Unless Shibby loans me a spot :3
Anytime. No reason to spend that money, we can knock it out in a day. I'm sure we could recruit extra hands too.
Yea it way closer than PTuning, it's just down the street from where I grew up. Moore quoted $660 for the clutch change since it's going to be winter and I don't have a driveway.
Unless Shibby loans me a spot :3
Just use Scott's house, he has a garage and trans jack.
So for the meantime, I went ahead and got the 949Racing twin disk. It was so light, I thought for a moment that they forgot the flywheel.
Down the line, I'm pretty sure I'll be picking up the KMiata trans adapter kit and even though I was dead set on the ZF 6-speed to compliment the 3.63 PEM rear end now re-crunching through the gear calculator it seems like the G260 5 speed would be a pretty sweet trans stretching out some power. I just would just feel more confident once the speedometer solution is sorted and I find another rear subframe to modify for OEM diff sans PPF. Pretty sure I'll be putting the car up for winter before I'm able to break the clutch in for another dyno pull, it's getting real cold out.
I wanted to do a before and after on the intercooler piping from 2" to whatever it ends up being down the line. Some small tinkering jobs over winter, probably going to commit to deleting A/C now. I have a normal car, it'll only suck for next years MATG. I smell coolant so I want to inspect the supermiata radiator. Pull the bumper off and redo some wiring/start playing with sheet metal/sheet plastic, pop rivets, rivnuts and ducting.
I noticed a bit of a sheen on my last oil change. When do people start to get worried about bearings?
So for the meantime, I went ahead and got the 949Racing twin disk. It was so light, I thought for a moment that they forgot the flywheel.
Down the line, I'm pretty sure I'll be picking up the KMiata trans adapter kit and even though I was dead set on the ZF 6-speed to compliment the 3.63 PEM rear end now re-crunching through the gear calculator it seems like the G260 5 speed would be a pretty sweet trans stretching out some power. I just would just feel more confident once the speedometer solution is sorted and I find another rear subframe to modify for OEM diff sans PPF. Pretty sure I'll be putting the car up for winter before I'm able to break the clutch in for another dyno pull, it's getting real cold out.
I wanted to do a before and after on the intercooler piping from 2" to whatever it ends up being down the line. Some small tinkering jobs over winter, probably going to commit to deleting A/C now. I have a normal car, it'll only suck for next years MATG. I smell coolant so I want to inspect the supermiata radiator. Pull the bumper off and redo some wiring/start playing with sheet metal/sheet plastic, pop rivets, rivnuts and ducting.
I noticed a bit of a sheen on my last oil change. When do people start to get worried about bearings?
What do you mean by a sheen on your last oil change? A sheen of what?
It might have been a dirty pan with a dash of paranoia. You know when you break in a motor and you change the oil out, it has a metallic sparkle/stratification. Like that but on a much more muted level. There was some contrast in there as opposed to the deep homogeneous brown we come to love and expect. This was the first oil change after having run nearly two months on E85. The oil smelled a bit of moonshine. (Do folks decrease oil change intervals on ethanol?)
It might have been a dirty pan with a dash of paranoia. You know when you break in a motor and you change the oil out, it has a metallic sparkle/stratification. Like that but on a much more muted level. There was some contrast in there as opposed to the deep homogeneous brown we come to love and expect. This was the first oil change after having run nearly two months on E85. The oil smelled a bit of moonshine. (Do folks decrease oil change intervals on ethanol?)
I always hit the oil with a bright flashlight, and if I do that, I can always see something. I think a muted level of sparkles is ok if you're pushing the car hard with a built motor.
I have a mercedes C63 that I change the oil on every 5K miles, and it usually shows 5x the metal my miata engine does if not more, and it seems to run fine.
I change my oil ever 1K miles or so. I previously did this with cheap oil. I now run a good synthetic, probably still gonna do 1K changes. I hooked up the PCV and a catchcan, and am going to see how the oil looks/smells. Before at 1K it had an E85 smell to it but was pretty clean since I never put many miles on the oil.
I previously used castrol GTX which was about 20/oil change including a mazda filter. So I did every 3 months or 1k miles, whichever comes first. I have a huge oil cooler and now if I drag race it doesn't hurt the oil too bad. Before putting that cooler on, I could do fresh oil thursday, race friday, and saturday the oil was hammered so I'd change it again. Now it holds up much better so I do the 3 months/1k miles.
PCV is supposed to help extend oil change intervals, FWIW. I didn't run it for years, but am trying it now to see if it makes any difference.
I’m sorry to hear that your clutch started slipping right when you needed it most. You can check a couple things to rule them out as possible causes before moving to removing the transmission.
First, check to make sure the clutch pedal is still adjusted properly per the FM installation instructions. As the disc wears, sometimes a readjustment is needed and if it’s not adjusted properly will make the clutch slip and wear prematurely. The adjustment procedure starts at step 13 - https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...structions.pdf
Next, make sure to inspect the slave cylinder. Pull the boot that is on the pushrod off the body of the cylinder and check the inside for fluid. If the inside of the boot is wet, the slave cylinder is on its way out.
If after adjusting the pedal, you find that the transmission needs to come out to inspect the clutch, then next step is to contact Competition Clutch through their warranty/support website - https://support.competitionclutch.com/ . Click on ‘New Support Ticket’ and fill in the necessary information. Give a description and attach pictures as well. This is the quickest way for you to get help. If you have any issues at all going through Competition Clutch, please let us know. Competition Clutch should take care of things from there.
Feel free to keep me in the loop and let me know if you have questions or need anything else!
Eric -Tech/Mechanic - 04 MSM
Worth a shot....
I followed these instructions shortly after install a year ago, but I guess my clutch has aged with use? I'll check my slave too. I'd be pretty embarrassed if I booked dyno time and it did it again. Then I'd be out another some funds and would back to square one. If this transmission is coming down, the twin disk is going in whether or not Competition Clutch warrant's it.
Had to block up my front bumper a bit since a state trooper cited me for failure to display tags. It's the same trooper that gave me a warning for speeding when I was logging for Vlad instead of throwing me in jail. He remembered my car, asked if I had been driving slower and said my car smells like alcohol.
Just threw a thing on, and got it dismissed. I don't like it, but Virginia.
The car is scheduled for a clutch change early December. Shibby offered to help out but with holidays and unknown TDY schedule for work coming up back in Seattle, I just want it done. After break in, will try to cycle back to e85 and redyno for glory.
Then sending the intercooler off for inlet / outlet modification. Among other projects like: ducting, wiring, and A/C removal.
Also looking at getting a quickjack but will need to find accomodations for storing it before I commit. May turn the underside if my front porch into a shed come spring.
Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 11-17-2017 at 03:12 PM.
Maybe if I use the bottom holes to mount; but bracket will def be visible. I can also flip the bracket upside down and mount the plate real low, like bottom of lip level.
10-28-2017, 10:39 AM
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