1.6T or 1.8 Swap
the love is gone. This is no longer MT, it's now become the Torque Wasteland 
I know that even after I'm done making double the power most people make, I'll still get ragged on because it could have been "that" much better with a 1.8. And I'll take it like a bitch because I know I can't fault them (even though I need the traction over low end).
The only way I can redeem myself is the hope of companies producing T3 EFR housings

I know that even after I'm done making double the power most people make, I'll still get ragged on because it could have been "that" much better with a 1.8. And I'll take it like a bitch because I know I can't fault them (even though I need the traction over low end).
The only way I can redeem myself is the hope of companies producing T3 EFR housings

DO IT
Until its done and you're flexing on fools, wouldn't you say you're a hypocrite?
Seriously, I love you 1.6 broz but put up or shut up.
<3
*edit: and don't you dare post up jasons plot or something gay like that. I wanna see YOURS
what I've been saying is that if a mild build will satisfy, the costs to turbo are considerably less, and the relative cost of a 1.8 swap is higher.
example: my 1.6L running 13psi, vs. a similar 1.8L setup running 7psi:

that low-end makes significant difference in how well it drives on the street.
or a few years later when I installed a smaller turbo for more low end, still at 13psi, and compared to a 1.8L running a t25 at only 9psi that same day:

that's disheartening for sure, especially after driving both back to back.
we are talking $300-600 on a used block before fitting parts. That's trivial in the scheme of things.
Last edited by Braineack; Mar 19, 2013 at 01:35 PM.
Sav, I don't disagree with what you've said but you're list of parts and comments apply to a high horsepower build. and for a high end build I completely agree.
what I've been saying is that if a mild build will satisfy, the costs to turbo are considerably less, and the relative cost of a 1.8 swap is higher.
what I've been saying is that if a mild build will satisfy, the costs to turbo are considerably less, and the relative cost of a 1.8 swap is higher.
Even a "mild" build is 2500+
I think what you're confusing us all with is your definition of "mild" build being a hacked together POS setup that produces 200whp at best, vs the rest of us thinking of healthy 250whp fun setups that last.
I think.......
Some specifics then, look at fluffy pillows dyno in the dyno section. on an fm manifold and sr20 turbo with ms2 and mediocre exhaust he made 125lb/ft@2500, 150lb/ft@3000 and 200lb/ft from 4000rpm, that's my idea of a budget build, manifold and downpipe are $750 (current price), ms2 is what, 750 or less? and a I would assume the sr20 turbo was used. how is that a bad or hacked together build? nice power from 4000-7000 rpm, 125-150lb/ft available from 2500-4000, sounds like a pretty nice street car to me and pretty darn cheap for the performance.
add a cheap ebay intercooler and wideband for another $500-800
Jim
add a cheap ebay intercooler and wideband for another $500-800
Jim
Whoa, whoa, calm down brochacho. These things take time and I had to learn the ropes. Big power budget ballin' is an art.
Some specifics then, look at fluffy pillows dyno in the dyno section. on an fm manifold and sr20 turbo with ms2 and mediocre exhaust he made 125lb/ft@2500, 150lb/ft@3000 and 200lb/ft from 4000rpm, that's my idea of a budget build, manifold and downpipe are $750 (current price), ms2 is what, 750 or less? and a I would assume the sr20 turbo was used. how is that a bad build? nice power from 4000-7000 rpm, 125-150lb/ft available from 2500-4000, sounds like a pretty nice street car to me and pretty darn cheap for the performance.
Jim
Jim
you noticed all the skeptisim on his numbers right?
there was no way he's making 215hp on that turbo with that amount of boost. 60% DC on 460cc injectors is closer to 150rwhp dynojet. it takes me ~90% DC on 460cc injectors to make ~230rwhp dynojet.
making 150rwtq (dynojet) by 3000RPM is a great benchmark for the absolute bare minimum you want out of your setup; good luck*.
*hint, this is child's play for a 1.8L, it's not for a 1.6L.
And you've been complaining about your 1.6 for even longer
Just get a 1.8 you cheap jew
But seriously, I have been. ebay kit-fm3-2554, sr20 t25, 2870-etd-holset. It's progression and getting better all the time. Until then, I will talk mad **** because I'm cool like that
Just get a 1.8 you cheap jewBut seriously, I have been. ebay kit-fm3-2554, sr20 t25, 2870-etd-holset. It's progression and getting better all the time. Until then, I will talk mad **** because I'm cool like that
First world problemsOP, you're over thinking this. No one frowns in a turbo miata. It's physically impossible. If you can't source a 1.8 locally or can't afford the shipping of a long block, etc..you won't be "sad" with a turbo 1.6, especially if you're going to stay within stock motor power limits. I had so much damn fun with my 2554 that is was sickening.
First world problemsOP, you're over thinking this. No one frowns in a turbo miata. It's physically impossible. If you can't source a 1.8 locally or can't afford the shipping of a long block, etc..you won't be "sad" with a turbo 1.6, especially if you're going to stay within stock motor power limits. I had so much damn fun with my 2554 that is was sickening.
On the other hand, for ~$600 there is no performance upgrade that comes anywhere near the price/performance of a 1.8 upgrade.
If you are going to shell out $4000+ for a turbo setup, it would be silly to not spend another $600 for a 1.8.
If you are going to shell out $4000+ for a turbo setup, it would be silly to not spend another $600 for a 1.8.







