DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:19 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
All engines must have identical design properties in your world. Why doesn't my Miata make power at 14,000 rpm reliably like my motorcycle did? Surely they are both engines! Maybe I am just a fool for not trying to rev my Miata so high. I haven't tried it and it just might work.

I'm going to recommend you do some reading on internal combustion engine design and theory of operation before making recommendations to the other noobs. Study things like rod ratio, undersquare versus oversquare engine designs, quench, tumble and swirl, combustion chamber design, the effects of cam duration and overlap on dynamic compression ratio, and definitely forced induction detonation characteristics relating to mechanical compression ratios. Report back your findings for us.
Suck Squeeze Bang Blow. That's right isn't it?

No wait, that was saturday night.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:27 AM
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bonk
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Old 03-27-2019, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
I'm going to recommend you do some reading on internal combustion engine design and theory of operation before making recommendations to the other noobs. Study things like rod ratio, undersquare versus oversquare engine designs, quench, tumble and swirl, combustion chamber design, the effects of cam duration and overlap on dynamic compression ratio, and definitely forced induction detonation characteristics relating to mechanical compression ratios. Report back your findings for us.
Do you have a book recommendation that covers these topics on a beginners level?
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ivanskoro View Post
Do you have a book recommendation that covers these topics on a beginners level?
It would be cheaper to Google each of those terms and read a little from multiple sources for free. Several explanations of the same idea sometimes help perception more than a single description.

I started with automotive textbooks for theory of operation of all components and then transitioned into performance enhancing technologies like combustion chamber design, camshaft design (including all of the "Camshaft 101" lessons from major camshaft manufacturers), intake runner tuning, and all of the other terms mentioned in my other post. Then I transitioned into forced induction theory and operation. I would recommend the book
https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606 https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606
when you reach that point, but not before then. Ideas build on each other.

I've been at it for awhile but still have a lot to learn. Technology and understanding keep progressing. But our little engines were designed in the 1980's using technology that was old and not cutting edge at that time. Mazda is small and quite poor compared to Honda, Toyota, and Nissan. They used existing architecture out of necessity.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:35 AM
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I guess I can turn this into a build thread?

I got most of the parts, still waiting on the pistons though as Bryan was low on stock when I ordered. Picking up the motor tomorrow, then I can start disassembly and send off parts to the machine shop.



Still need to get the full gasket set, bearings, oil pump gears, water pump and flywheel. You may notice I have an OEM style clutch in the photo, I am staying N/A for a while, and already had this clutch on hand. When I actually put in the EFR I'll pick up an ACT or FM clutch.

Also wishing I got Manley rods, I found out that the Eagle rods don't come already weighed. Not too much extra work but I should've just spent the extra $20 for Manley rods lol

Speaking of oil pump gears, Fab9 sells the Boundary gears by themselves. If I clean the pump thoroughly and install the billet gears would this be acceptable? Or just get a new OEM pump? I will eventually also have a Fluidampr, in case anyone asks.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I wouldn't. The money obviously doesn't go towards a "Make the forums work consistently" fund.
Here i am quoting myself in the hopes that i will be able to see my reply so i can read the rest of the thread.

Robb M. it's happening again.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Here i am quoting myself in the hopes that i will be able to see my reply so i can read the rest of the thread.

Robb M. it's happening again.
are you running out of RAM? I can't seem to replicate. Can you please remind me your browser/device setup?
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:03 AM
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HP Elitebook with an i7, 512mb ssd, 32gb of ram, nvidia quadro m2000 2gb.

Issue randomly happens on Chrome and Firefox both. Just went 3-4 days without it happening, i've had it happen twice this morning already.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:07 AM
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Our tech guys were unable to replicate, I haven't yet either. It's def not your machine based on the above. Not even sure what info I could ask you to try and collect to help isolate this. All I can think is a rogue ad unit. I'm certain you have related threads and infinite scroll turned off?
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:16 AM
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I can't intentionally replicate it either, unfortunately. Yes those dumpster fires have been eradicated from my personal preferences.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:33 AM
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i guess screenshot if possible and let’s look for a common ad? not much of a solution.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
HP Elitebook with an i7, 512mb ssd, 32gb of ram, nvidia quadro m2000 2gb.

Issue randomly happens on Chrome and Firefox both. Just went 3-4 days without it happening, i've had it happen twice this morning already.
I think its time to upgrade that solid state drive
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:48 AM
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OP, I would install a ral clutch first time 'round. unless you like to pull engines. I dont like to, so thats my thought.
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
OP, I would install a ral clutch first time 'round. unless you like to pull engines. I dont like to, so thats my thought.
I work at a shop, I can change the clutch out in less than an hour. I bought the Exedy clutch a while ago when I first got the car, I'm definitely going to use it while I'm still N/A. No reason to wear out an expensive clutch when it's not boosted.
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Robb M. View Post
i guess screenshot if possible and letís look for a common ad? not much of a solution.
I don't have ads. There's a screenshot of what happens in the Front Desk thread when i first notified you of this happening.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:20 PM
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Last edited by achulz; 03-28-2019 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:54 PM
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Confirmed for troll account.
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by achulz View Post
I work at a shop, I can change the clutch out in less than an hour. I bought the Exedy clutch a while ago when I first got the car, I'm definitely going to use it while I'm still N/A. No reason to wear out an expensive clutch when it's not boosted.

sell the unused stock clutch. save labor AND money. unless of course, more complicated and more expensive is what you are after.
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Old 03-28-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
sell the unused stock clutch. save labor AND money. unless of course, more complicated and more expensive is what you are after.
I bought the clutch a year ago. It's something to use while I save up for everything else. There's no point in an stronger clutch when I'm still at stock power level.

I'm doing this in two stages, first the motor build, then after it's all broken in and I have time to save for the really expensive stuff, I'll add the rest. I'm definitely going to have to pull the motor twice, but like I said earlier I have the means to do it. I'm not in any rush to finish this, the only reason I don't keep the second motor out of the car and install more parts is because the one sitting in the car barely has compression and is a ticking time bomb.
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Old 03-31-2019, 04:05 PM
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The $200 BP6D was a gamble, but after disassembling, I found it is in pretty good shape. No spun bearings, cylinder walls looked okay, the only major problem I found was one of the shims popped out on the first #4 cylinder exhaust valve lifter, which leads me to believe it's why the previous owner ended up pulling it out.

Pretty much a steal though! I am in the process of moving so I won't be able to work on it until I get settled in but at least I know it's a good base to work from.

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