deatschwerks injectors if i remember....

 

Very interesting build and amazing fabrication skills.

I just recently bought a 2003 miata and am contemplating on putting a turbo onto it as well

300whp is a goal I am shooting for as well, my question to you is did you use a cometic headgasket (mls) and arp studs? I read as much as I could but did not notice you mentioning anything about that anywhere. Thanks

 

No.

 

In before a bunch of blown bp6d's because a bunch of n00bs saw 1 thread where one is holding up at 300whp

 

Pretty much. One guy who runs a 300whp stock BP and maybe goes WOT once a week does not mean the motor will hold up to regular use at 300whp.

 

Sav, you may remember this one...

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-beware-31000/

 

Those are some pretty awesome figures, I'd be interested in watching how long it lasts!

I plan to run my block on a flat torque curve with an upward slope in torque past 5.2k - if it blows it blows.

I personally don't buy the MBT thing unless you accidentally ran e85 or the engine had been worked. On UK 98ron we're det limited on every setup I tune at this level.

 

Nothing was changed in the block so no studs or headgasket

I dont force anyone to by the fact that i it mbt. All i can say is that i had to give it 5-6 more degrees before i start to hear knock with the det cans and with 5-6 deg more advance i was loosing around 10-12 whp
Maybe you are always knock limited at those power levels but i bet you need more than 12psi to break the 300whp mark too.

 

Interesting build! I'm currently in the process of tuning my 2002 Miata with a IHI mazdaspeed turbo setup. I am also using an AEM FIC with the boomslang harness. The car is running but really needs to be dialed in.
Would you mind posting your Cal File so i can compare your configuration to my Fuel, ignition, 02 map?
also, thanks for telling me about the additional 250 ohm resistor that needs to be wired into the boomslang.

 

Do you think the fact that they are home made det cans may result in you not hearing knock until after you start loosing power?

Not talking **** here, just concerned about your motors health.

Keith

 

Keith I can assure you the det cans work pretty well because when you start hearing very little knock only by listening to the engine without the cans and than put them on It pops like crazy in them. Generally I start hearing knock with them around 2-4 deg before I can start hearing without them. These also help a lot when i tune loud cars or ones with external dump tube.

 

Big power with a piggyback and MAF. You're giving me hope

 

Subscribed to see how long she lives.

 

This has helped me a lot. i saw you said you where going to upload your tune. have you uploaded your cal file. im doing the same as what you have done and would like to have a look at a good map for me to go by

 

did ~ the same on a stock BP with 10:1 compression and a chrubo based on GT2860R
boost peak (7 psi) is around 3700 rpm
dunno the rwhp, cause here in sardinia we have not many dynos...

 

jimmywiz. no i havent uploaded my cal file but it would probably be useless for you as each tune is different for each car.

 

bump

We upped the boost to 16psi last week instead of the 12 on the dynosheet. 20k this summer on the engine and still perfect compression.

we'll trya quarter mile run on monday to see if we can manage a better time than we did at the beginning of the summer. (i hope for at least a better trap speed than 112 :s)

 

You are making me consider pushing my motor a tiny bit. I already have a core ready to rebuild if I blow this one...

Can't wait to hear how long it lasts at 16psi.

 

finally didn't pulled good times on the quarter mile since we had some serious misfiring at 16 psi ... we had to bring it back to 9psi to avoid misfires. I think we are dealing with a dying coil since plug gap is already at .016 :s

 

I think you are dealing with a dying motor, but lets hope you're right and I'm wrong