94 MSPNP SR20 DIY Build
#21
The flap should be tight against the hole. It shouldn't leak otherwise you'll loose spool. If you don't have the actuator hooked up to it though it will be loose. If the actuator doesn't hold it closed tight then the actuator could be bad or you might just need to adjust the pre-tension with a little bracket/mounting modification.
#22
Well no **** it isn't kosher(jew), i personally use a pair of 8" 90* needle nose because strong snap ring pliers are expensive and the needle nose are more like $7 locally most the time. Make sure the ends fit in the snapring before buying of course. If it's real rusty soak it with oil.
The flap should be tight against the hole. It shouldn't leak otherwise you'll loose spool. If you don't have the actuator hooked up to it though it will be loose. If the actuator doesn't hold it closed tight then the actuator could be bad or you might just need to adjust the pre-tension with a little bracket/mounting modification.
The flap should be tight against the hole. It shouldn't leak otherwise you'll loose spool. If you don't have the actuator hooked up to it though it will be loose. If the actuator doesn't hold it closed tight then the actuator could be bad or you might just need to adjust the pre-tension with a little bracket/mounting modification.
I think I should try to be even more clear. The flap is attached to a little elbow that is operated from outside the turbine by the actuator. The flap itself is loose, like its not rigidly attached to the arm.
#23
So your kosher flap is not meant to be rigidly mounted to that arm. It should be loose on there so that it can move around in order to seal even under temperature changes and whatnot. So no worries unless something just doesn't seem right. They usually rattle on that arm unless closed. They snap shut no problem with a good actuator though.
#27
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Here is a mock-up of what I plan to do. I tore the car apart friday afternoon and went to the junkyard today. I got a new hood to cut open and make a vent, and an extra radiator fan for $60, great deal at pick-n-pull.
Now I strapped the intercooler and radiator into the car with tie downs to see what it will look like. I am doing a v-mount without cutting any of the frame/bracing apart in the front. It looks do-able for sure and I am STOKED!
The rest of the pics are at:
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/kylelind/
Now I strapped the intercooler and radiator into the car with tie downs to see what it will look like. I am doing a v-mount without cutting any of the frame/bracing apart in the front. It looks do-able for sure and I am STOKED!
The rest of the pics are at:
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff276/kylelind/
#30
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Huh, nooo.....there is only that one radiator and intercooler, with each of them exposed to the incoming air thru the nose. Look at the pics on the link. It seems like great flow with a vent in the hood and fans on the radiator. I am going to make shrouds to close it all in and split the flow to each. It seems awesome to me!!??
#32
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Huh, nooo.....there is only that one radiator and intercooler, with each of them exposed to the incoming air thru the nose. Look at the pics on the link. It seems like great flow with a vent in the hood and fans on the radiator. I am going to make shrouds to close it all in and split the flow to each. It seems awesome to me!!??
I think he had to much to drink before he posted... magna has a little more sense then that...hopefully
#33
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Here is a photo update of my build progress. I have welded up a STRONG support to hold the radiator and protect it from being pushed back into the engine. I aligned it so that it will fit right inside the lower lip of the bumper...and it bolts on where the tow hooks were.
I have also started on my tubular shorty schedule 40 stainless manifold that I designed in solid works. It has come along really well but required some very tricky cuts through .125" walls. Looks just like my model!!
I will keep you updated!!
I have also started on my tubular shorty schedule 40 stainless manifold that I designed in solid works. It has come along really well but required some very tricky cuts through .125" walls. Looks just like my model!!
I will keep you updated!!
#34
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****, dude. That V-mount bracket setup is really, really cool. I'm excited to see how the final product turns out, especially your hood venting. If it turns out nice, I may want to duplicate the venting on my car for track use.
#35
very sweet...
i want to do something similar, i wonder if there is any data to support your claim of good airflow, it would make me feel a lot better...i have a vented CF hood and a wizdom front bumper, so i get lots of airflow, my fan only comes on if im sitting still for a while, otherwise while driving it never comes on ...so i think ill be alright...please keep us posted
i want to do something similar, i wonder if there is any data to support your claim of good airflow, it would make me feel a lot better...i have a vented CF hood and a wizdom front bumper, so i get lots of airflow, my fan only comes on if im sitting still for a while, otherwise while driving it never comes on ...so i think ill be alright...please keep us posted
#36
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Yeah, will do......I may put a fan on the intercooler as well with a thermal switch. Also I am going to put 2 spal 9" fans on the back of the radiator with very good shrouds to keep the flow in.
What does everyone think of splitter lips in the front to keep the air through the nose??
What does everyone think of splitter lips in the front to keep the air through the nose??
#38
Yeah, will do......I may put a fan on the intercooler as well with a thermal switch. Also I am going to put 2 spal 9" fans on the back of the radiator with very good shrouds to keep the flow in.
What does everyone think of splitter lips in the front to keep the air through the nose??
What does everyone think of splitter lips in the front to keep the air through the nose??
in front of the two, getting it to flow in that direction, also, you wont have too much room to work with using your stock bumper...but the two fans should help the radiator plenty, just use a 160* thermostat i guess...good luck to you, im gonna wait till someone has it figured out and is willing to share, lol
#39
I think splitters like this work great.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...7-splitter.jpg
They make force more air to go up through the mouth of the car and the air that does go under the car is more laminar creating less drag.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...7-splitter.jpg
They make force more air to go up through the mouth of the car and the air that does go under the car is more laminar creating less drag.
#40
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Yeah, cjernigan, that is exactly what I am planning to make. I will also split the air accordingly for the intercooler and radiator.
Do I really need to get a different thermostat? The 160* would just open sooner, not a big difference from the 180*???
Do I really need to get a different thermostat? The 160* would just open sooner, not a big difference from the 180*???