Well.... 99 Turbo project is on hold.......

Since.....


I just picked this up:
















I got a killer deal on the car, 02 Miata LE:

Begi turbo kit, EWG, not sure what model and no idea what kind of turbo???
XEDE fuel management and 550cc(?not sure?) injectors
Innovate analog wideband (not working)
Autometer analog boost gauge
seems like a koyo radiator with slim fans
Hard dog roll bar
FM Butterfly brace

Car has issues, hence the cheap price. I will be making a new thread to hopefully get some help making it a proper running car again.

Issues:

1. Oil leaks galore, seems like mostly from Valve cover gasket (already have new gasket.
2. car is slow, and i mean SLOW. only feel turbo kick in at like 5.5k rpm and holds 9.5lbs boost. but only feels slightly faster than my 99 NA. turbo spool SUCKS takes forever and reaches 9.5lbs at like 4.5-5k rpm. and almost no boost 2-4.5 rpm.
3. has code P0171
4. when going over 70mph on hwy for a 1 hour car shuts down, feels like im out of gas, car starts loosing all power for a few split seconds, followed by total loss of power. then i pull over, crank and it doesnt start, just cranks. so i pop the hood, let it cool off for 15 mins, and it starts fine, and drives fine for another 20 minutes, and shuts off again.
So what i did to get it home, is drove from VA to FL 60mph gentle cruise control, no AC. and then it didnt shut down on me. (i read that this could the the cam angle sensor overheating, so i just bought a new one today).

these are the main issues. and my 99 NA is MUCH faster from 2k - 5k rpm.

Have a look at the engine bay pics, and see if you can see anything that is obviously not connected correctly. and please help me identify the turbo, i cant see the name plate on it.

Oil catch can and egr valve and breather filter that is spitting oil and wet with oil seems suspect to me so far.

 

Welcome to my world...



Looks like a GT2860, if spool is bad it's possible it's burned up

That was the case with mine.

 

I posted more details in this thread, we can take the discussion there.

https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...r-miata-88158/

How do your Xede maps compare to mine? (they are posted at the above link).

what issues are you having with Begi kit or xede?

 

So i now decided to continue with my 99 sport and turbo it.

Although it will not be an ebay build anymore, as i picked up a complete AVO turbo kit for a steal.

Full AVO kit with:
AVO log manifold
I/C and all piping
GT2560R turbo
AVO Downpipe
5th injector and controller (will not be using this).

 

Are you selling the old downpipe?

 

its not a bad setup but the downpipe on these sucks. should make for a fun ride though!

 

I will have some stuff for sale which i will post in the for sale section once im done installing this kit and it all works, then ill sell the other setup that i gathered.

I think i have an updated kit or a custom downpipe, as the downpipe is not the super sharp restrictive bend one that i see in all the avo pictures.
It looks like a normal round tube 2.5" downpipe, and not the regular square shaped avo one.

 

yeah, that isnt too bad. Not like the one on my friends car. is this kit meant for an NB? that could be why maybe?

 

better than the original, but still a cheater bend

im sure its fine for a starter setup

 

made some progress today,

removed stock bits (intake, header etc...)

test fitted turbo, yay! no hit shelf

downpipe seems to be hitting a piece that sticks out on the transmission.... not cool.

need to bend heater hose out of the way, and get a flexible lower radiator hose.






Now i understand why people remove PS and AC, how in the world am i supposed to stuff a 2" pipe between all these PS lines?!?

 

looks good. should make some good power.

 

bye bye power steering. i dont want to deal with all these hoses that block my route for the charge pipe.



Also I cut off about 3/8" from the tab that sticks out from the transmission that was in the way of the downpipe.
DP fits great now.

 

im 90% done!

Trimmed rear shelf lip a bit, dp was hitting it.

and started working on intercooler and piping.

ACE hardware racing FM style mount.
eBay Intercooler 27x5.5x2.5 with 2.25" inlet/outlet
eBay universal 2.25" piping kit.





Hotside piping




Cold side:




Notice the cheater oil feed line, i put a T on the oil relocation kit
Does any one know which hose is dirty oil in and clean oil out??
I want the oil feed to be on the clean oil out port.
Its a Thompson oil relocation kit, i looked at the instructions, but they dont mention which is in or out.

 

Clean oil goes "out" (back to engine) through the hose that lines up with the center of the relocation piece.

dis one,



Looks like you got it right

 

Thanks!!


In other news.....

Its Alive

 

Installed a shorter AC compressor belt, and shimmed the two upper bolts with one washer each, belt squealed. did two washers each upper bolt, still squealed, but not as bad.
Belt seems tight when i push it, but Next i will add one washer to each lower bolt.



Car is running and driving great!, i really like the 2560R turbo, it spools very quickly, and at only 6 PSI my car already feels fast

i will upload some videos later. but here are the engine shots, all done, just have to clean up the hoses a little.






A few questions for you boost gurus!

here is how i have my vacuum lines tapped, does this seem ok?
I tried upping the boost on my Innovate EBC, as WG only is about 6psi. but once i upped the duty cycle on the EBC, it did up the boost, but it flactuates between 8-10psi, its not stable.

any other suggestions on what part should draw vacuum from where? MS2, Boost gauge, ebc, BOV... ?

 

Looking good! I have a mazda P/S Delete tensioner pulley I could sell you if you want it. I bought it and never used it, I have it somewhere in my garage. It's made for what you're trying to do, run a/c only.

 

I believe the EBC should be coming off of the piping right before the throttle body, not off of the manifold. Change that, and moved the boost gauge to where the EBC was

Give the MS it's own source.

Use reference point 'B'

 

Thanks, let me see if i can make this washer method work, if not i will deff pm you for the idler pulley.

Thats what i was thinking, move EBC to before TB but after IC.

 

to be honest, its not a big deal with EBC, since it's controlled by the ecu unlike an mbc
you can reference it off the compressor and still be fine