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Absurdflow Low Mount (A/C P/S friendly)

Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Nagase
Hey, I'm just looking for a quantifiable reason to buy your manifold instead of someone else's.
Buy the manifold that doesn't warp and use stretchy studs. He's my only hope.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by hustler
Buy the manifold that doesn't warp and use stretchy studs. He's my only hope.
His manifold has held up to extended sessions of racing where others have failed? I've read through the threads to see cracked cast manifolds, but... well, Savington is using his manifold, and I haven't read a report of failure on that. So that might be a very good point there!
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Nagase
His manifold has held up to extended sessions of racing where others have failed? I've read through the threads to see cracked cast manifolds, but... well, Savington is using his manifold, and I haven't read a report of failure on that. So that might be a very good point there!
There will soon be 2-more "hardcore track crew" members with the manifold. I'm doing a 2-day event in 3-weeks...that will be real data. I'm not saying that no other vendors are capable of making a manifold that doesn't fail on the track when driven by the most angry of the angry...but this is our best bet when you use the v-bands. You have to pay to play though.

I mean no disrespect, but its highly likely that you don't drive with the level of anger of the select few in the nation who have this problem...at least not today, maybe later. Then again, you could be Tarzan for all I know.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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Oh, I agree with you. I was more interested in the flow, for street/autocross/hpde use.

I have another car I'm working on that I'd care less about wadding up for OT use down the road.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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Coolant re-route: Simply pull the metal pipe out of the fitting, tap and plug it (or weld it closed, then turn the whole assembly 180 degrees. Find a suitable flex hose to connect to the radiator.
Make a T-piece for the upper hose and run heater hose from the heater outlet across the top and into the T. This will make all the engine HOT water go through the radiator, rather than 15-25% being re-circulated back into the engine still hot.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Nagase
Hey, I'm just looking for a quantifiable reason to buy your manifold instead of someone else's... I know it looks nice, but it's too expensive to buy because it's shiny.

I'm not saying it's no good, I just like actual hard data, and if you did post up some hard data by dynoing your own manifold to someone else's, you can prove its worth, and that would be a great selling point for you, might make more money. I like your manifold.
I hear ya. there should not be much difference between this manifold and the one Paul runs. From the spool thread, his (and arties) has better spool and more peak hp compared to other GT2560R setups.

EDIT: And my manifold's aren't shiny
EDIT 2: I don't think my manifolds are any more expensive than what else is out there. Plus mine come with a lifetime warrantee (haha) and if you also purchase a turbo & downpipe or what not, it gets very affordable (I basically give the manifold away).
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by drgoodwrench
Coolant re-route: Simply pull the metal pipe out of the fitting, tap and plug it (or weld it closed, then turn the whole assembly 180 degrees. Find a suitable flex hose to connect to the radiator....
If this works, I will weld the pipe hole shut for people with my manifold free of charge if they send me the piece. Not sure if this will work with the A/C P/S crew.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 11:59 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Nagase
Oh, I agree with you. I was more interested in the flow, for street/autocross/hpde use.

I have another car I'm working on that I'd care less about wadding up for OT use down the road.
I plan on using my car for autox, although I won't be running r-comps (225/50/15 Kumho XS), so won't be too competitive...compared to SM2 cars.

I rode in Paul's car when we dropped my car off. Let's just say I'm SOLD!!! Paul's car/setup is a lot lighter than my car (2048 vs ~2500 w/ full tank of gas). His car was extremely sick! I volunteer at one of the Subaru shops in the Mid-A. I've driven 600whp+ STis. Paul's car is as much fun as those cars, if not better.

The spool is so quick, I was grinning from ear-to-ear. I told my friend Bruce to ride w/ Paul. He came back w/ the same grin. And he thought my 311whp WRX was quick....

If I put down similar whp/tq numbers, I'll be extremely pleased! It sucks to keep waiting b/c I realize that this is a one-off job. Plus, Paul and Tim had to work out their respective schedules and what not....so it's like XMas all over again. WHEN CAN I OPEN UP MY PRESENT?!!

I don't think Paul drives that "light" with his car...so if the manifold's held up, I think it's probably going to survive where others might've failed.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by saint_foo
I don't think Paul drives that "light" with his car...so if the manifold's held up, I think it's probably going to survive where others might've failed.
You are correct. He doesnt drive it light at all. He tries to get people to race all the time when hes out.

And going for a ride in his Machine is ******* fun as hell. Mines a blast too, but that extra weight loss is key.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Nagase
Would anyone happen to have any dyno graphs or logs with actual spool reduction with this manifold?

I looked through the spool thread, but the only accurate comparison is back to back, same car, same pull/dyno.
Actually, spool isn't even accurate on the dyno. You can load the car up as much as you want to make it spool earlier than it naturally would. The tests we did from that thread are on flat road, starting at 1600-1700rpm, in the 1:1 ratio (either 4th or 5th).

Benefits of this manifold:
-It WILL spool better
-It WILL make better power up top
-It WILL make more torque in the middle
-It WILL get you laid
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 01:26 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Savington
-It WILL get you laid

* results not typical
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by saint_foo
I don't think Paul drives that "light" with his car...so if the manifold's held up, I think it's probably going to survive where others might've failed.
There is absolute zero comparison from the loads and stress on a street car vs. the typical amateur track day. Its even further for the men on this forum who are tearing stuff up like myself, savington, and that dirty dutch guy.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
There is absolute zero comparison from the loads and stress on a street car vs. the typical amateur track day. Its even further for the men on this forum who are tearing stuff up like myself, savington, and that dirty dutch guy.
I think it's cute that Hustler lumps himself in with the real racers.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
Benefits of this manifold:
-It WILL get you laid
Imagine being the guy who makes them.

Completely unrelated cause it's a different manifold, but I'm not too sure about spool advantage with the EWG where I put Sav's.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
Imagine being the guy who makes them.
LOL you must get to pick and choose your supermodel menage-a-trios partners every night
It's like the sail makers in sail boat racing; they are one of the reigning gods on the water.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Savington
-It WILL get you laid
... in the butt.

>:3
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I think it's cute that Hustler lumps himself in with the real racers.
I'm not a "real racer" but I did 60-hours of seat-time in one year alone and I'll crush your skull if you ever disrespect me again.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
From the spool thread, his (and arties) has better spool and more peak hp compared to other GT2560R setups.
Don't forget about the 3" dp. That will have a big effect on spool. IMO, your manifolds haven't been proven to offer better spool yet. The trade off between short (log) and long (tubular) runners is spool vs peak power. If your design is the best of both worlds my hat goes off to you, but I don't see the proof yet.
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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from what I've read on the interweb (including the full-race site" you get slower spool with tubular manifolds, but more power and torque once spun up. There is a lot more volume in the tubular manifold to fill compared to a log (its big, its heavy, its wood).
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
from what I've read on the interweb (including the full-race site" you get slower spool with tubular manifolds, but more power and torque once spun up. There is a lot more volume in the tubular manifold to fill compared to a log (its big, its heavy, its wood).

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