If you can send me a CAD file of your top covers I can get my local CNC plasma guy to knock you out some from flat carbon fiber sheet. I need to make a bunch of flat carbon to make floor pan plugs for my stupid E30, anyway.

For that matter, if you can CNC male and female mold halves out of aluminum, I could easily make your velocity stacks, and you could bond them to your straight sections.

 

The male/female top/bottom molds would be simple. I have no idea at all how to 1. make a part from the mold and 2. attach the part to a stainless straight tube.

 

I hear carbon welds to aluminum with a plasma cutter and tig filler

 

What about keeping it at 3.5 qts, and compensating with a good synthetic oil (Rotella-T synth), a good oil cooler, and an Accusump with a dash warning light? Seems like you would come out ahead compared to just a large sump.

 

Id be happy to make the stacks for you. And epoxying them to stainless would be easy.

 

I am considering it. I have to run a remote filter anyway, may as well include an oil cooler while I am at it. Now to go back and read thru all the oil cooler threads to see what's slick. My intercooler is offset towards the driver's side because of the old A/C condenser which is now gone, I guess that would be a nice spot for a cooler that's turned 90deg, next to the intercooler. We'll see.

Here is beelzeboss' oil pan, from the KL V6 thread on m.net. This is what I am going to do, adding wings to increase volume. Plus it looks like his engine is pushed forward at least an inch more than mine...my sump starts further forward on the pan adding potential volume. But my engine looks to be lower so I dunno.
2.5l = 2.64 quarts.


Thanks, I may take you up on that if I cannot smoosh the stainless tube.

 

Tim, as always, my heart gets all a-flutter when I see this thread pop up in the "new posts" list. :-)

 

It's been a little while...my damn oil pan has taken me 3 weekends to get to this point and it's still not finished. Not exactly fun.

Pics!
These bitches took me 4 hours to machine last Friday. I only broke 1 end mill. I suck.




Trans crossmember using FM's subframe rails as a mount.






The OIL PAN OF DOOOOMMMMMM. 4 quarts to the bottom of the little 1" tall step. Probably 4.5 quarts to the oil pan rail. Plus oil filter, remote filter lines, and probably an oil cooler should be a fair capacity.




I still have to weld on the inlet -12AN inlet fitting for the oil pump. And drill a few holes larger...


I made it follow & clear the subframe shape by 1/4", then hammered as much of the subframe for extra clearance as I could. The hard/thick parts I ground down. I still have to clean this up once it's on a lift so I have more room.






-12AN external pump pickup


Plenty of room...


-10AN turbo oil drain. Cause someday there should be a turbo in there somewhere.


And now for the best (for me) part! This $18 'universal' Moroso dip stick was as close to a bolt on as can be. This is it installed unmodified. I have to trim an inch or so off the top when I set the stick height to my sump volume, but that's simple with my tubing cutter. Man that's a killer break.

 

Staring at that now, I'm not sure why I don't do the entire sump out of hard line. I'm only going to have maybe 6" of hose. Whatever.

I'll also paint that dipstick. Chrome is ghey.

 

I'm pretty jelly.

I need to do a hard-pipe like that on my oil return.

 

Man that oil pan looks like it was a pain.

Where does the external oil pickup run to? You machined the pump to draw oil from outside the block, or KL motors use an external pickup stock?

 

Oil pan reminds me of the first one I built for the fe3 setup to fit the stock subframe, had the sump fit the shape of the crossmember similar to yours for maximum volume. FE3 is pretty tall, so I still had to compromise on capacity a bit, but like you said, once you consider the oil cooler, accsump, lines, etc, should be enough oil in the system.


Then I got the V8R subframe to clear the 4" downpipe, and built a new oil pan while I was at it. The V8R subframe made the oil pan design A LOT easier this time around.

What's the "-12 external pump pickup" tube exactly for? Your oil cooler circuit run an external pump I take it?

Did you mill those exhaust manifold flanges manually or CNC controlled?

BTW, the xida spring perches/adapters I mentioned earlier... here and here

 

wont it just turn purple/blue with heat?

 

The external sump pipe is going to be connected to the input to the OEM oil pump via a small section of hose. I ran it externally because in order to keep it all inside the pan a very tight bend must be done at the pump inlet. The other's with KL swaps do it that way. When I saw that the pump inlet flange was on the same plane as the oil pan rail, I figured life would be easier this way. Plus this let me slammered my engine for maximum intake manifold clearance so there isn't room for the pipe between the engine and steering rack, I have to go around the engine.

The pump inlet -12AN fitting isn't welded on yet because I still have to pick up the 90degree bend from McMaster today after work. I was supposed to get it last night but when I opened the package it was missing.



I CNC'ed the exhaust flanges on our 2-axis CNC bridgeport retrofit. I would run the whole profile program, manually go down .080, run it again, etc. But I am getting experience using all the various programs, I did the modeling, CNC programming, and ran the machine. I am starting off on the small/simple/inexpensive machines first.

Hmm...I dunno. If it does, it's only in one spot by the rear exhaust pipe.

 

Ah.. Ok I see how low the profile is of the sump now... VERY low, yea FE3 has the pump inlet on same plane as the sump flange, had to do a VERY tight inlet pipe as well, but managed to fit inside the sump. Your setup definitely allows for maximum height clearance, so kudos for extracting that much!

 

man... awesome, Tim... just awesome.

 

Thanks again Everyone!

Pics of -12AN line installed. Now I have to clean & paint it. Oh, and I have to go to harbor freight and get a bigarse adjustable wrench to tighten these.

 

Not much clearance between the pickup tube and the crossmember/subframe when in place - and those don't look like solid mounts... thoughts? I caught the 'plenty of room remark' above the pic... I can just see the pipe/weld cracking at the pan after bouncing off the member several hard times - that'll be a mess!

 

Wow tim thanks for making me feel like i totally suck.

 

Eid:
I'm retarded. That oil set-up is baller.