Every Miata would benefit from a extractor hood vent. It can't hurt to have cooler engine bay temps, especially when you're already struggling with oil and coolant temps. My highly uneducated guess says that you still won't be 100% happy with your temps once you finally get out on the street with it again.

 

Really? Power steering delete is probably one of the favorite mods on my car. and it was Fwee + shaved some weight!

 

I love power steering. Hataz gon hate

 

just a matter of personal preference. no hate here.

 

I cant wait to get it back in.

 

I have a factory hood I will let go cheap if interested, Just has some minor hail damage.

 

can you email me pics? tim at absurdflow comm

 

I'll try and get pics tonight or tomorrow for you.

 

Thanks for the pictures Pat. Hold off for a moment. I have other things to fix now.

I ran into a new issue yesterday. The engine would shut off/stall. Did it first while on a long incline on the parkway, which is under construction there, and there was little room on the shoulder. Holyshit moment. After a few minutes of trying to hook up my laptop and trying to start it, it finally fired off like there was nothing wrong, and I made it to work. Thought it may have been my fuel pump kill switch cause I was working that while stuck; couldn't hear the fuel pump cycle with semi's flying past inches from my head. Soldered a new switch in during lunch.

Same thing occured on the way home, this time while I had the lap top on. But not datalogging correct parameters...oops. It's either the crank or cam sensor....either the crank isn't picking up all '24' teeth before the cam sensor resets the cycle, or the cam sensor isn't picking up at all. My 'sync error' counts constantly rise.

With all the extra effort to seal off the engine bay to help cool the fluids (even more of which I have done while doing the oil cooler), perhaps I am now exceeding the 185F max temp on these DIYAUTOTUNE hall effect sensors. I didn't realize that limit until this morning. That may explain why this has occurred right after either a prolonged load (up the long hill on the parkway) or after lots of boost (the 3 times on my way home), and why the car fires right up like no problems after sitting there for a minute or two. Hell, the crank wheel sensor is right behind the radiator, and a half dozen inches away from the exhaust header and downpipe. It is reading the teeth, but not sure if it's reading all of the teeth or not. Must datalog the correct parameters next time out.

Anyway, oil cooler seemed to help tremendously. 20F coolant temp drop on the highway, 25F coolant drop on the backroads. I do have pics, will post soon.

 

What crank wheel are you using, again?

 

My own.

I initially had Trackspeed's, but I would loose sync with that once things got warms and my aluminum bracket would change shape. That wheel and my sensor were very finicky, requiring a very tight air gap, too much for my aluminum bracket. I cannot recall the symptoms when that would happen though. But the car never got off the jackstands with that wheel on it, it would fail as it warmed up. I could always put the TS wheel back on and see what it does, see if the symptoms are the same; not reading some of the teeth.

New wheel is 12 rareearth magnets. in testing, the air gap could be around 3/8". I have it around .080 or so, eyeballed.

 

Can i get you to humor me and put a stock KL 36-1 trigger and sensor on it? It works pretty well.

Unless you had a specific need that caused you to want to re-invent the wheel? :P

 

Sure. Have one? Along with the sensor? And the settings for AEM EMS series 1?

I went with 12 teeth because I know the AEM EMS can handle it. I could always ask Savington if I ran into issues. The default wizard for their distributor modules work. They may have a wizard for 36-1, I cannot recall. Hmm my laptop is here...

Making a mount for DIY's other hall effect sensor with 260F rating will be easier, if that's the problem.

I should be able to get the crank damper/pulley off without dropping the sway bar.

 

Needz some hood rizerz to keep those underhood temps down


Also vids of this bad ************.

 

Haha yeah. Well...I had the rubber weatherstrip at the fire wall, that seals the back of the hood, shortened back when I had the air filters back there 'n stuff. I replaced that just prior to yesterday, now I'm having issue**. Coincidence?

**issue with sensors, but engine coolant issue is greatly helped.

 

Oh.... i didn't know it was EMS driven, sorry.

I don't have a spare setup just yet unfortunately. Once my new block comes, i will, though.

Otherwise, the stuff should set you back $50 or less to your door if you put out a "bounty" on Probetalk.

My car uses the factory 36-1 wheel and a Haltech pickup, running a Platinum Sport 1000, which i don't know is that much more "powerful" than the AEM.

Megasquirt guys just use the 36-1 wheel and pretty much any factory pickup.

 

the kl and miata factory sensor is the same, just different wire lengths (seems to be this way for almost every mazda I have worked on). If you can locate a factory 36-1 kl pulley that would probably be your most reliable option.

 

Factory wiring for sensor:

 

Factory 36-1 shouldn't be hard to find. I don't have that sensor on my BP so I'd have to source the sensor too.

I will look into that once I determine if that is the actual problem. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

I have a crank sensor on my BP motor that came from a 97 that I dont need, it's useless.