In the spirit of the 6UL rip off thread, I how about a Stance magic 6UL crank trigger?

 

make sure its not +36 offset though or Emilio will kill yoiu

 

-3 offset baby.

 

But how am I supposed to stretch 185s on it?

 

Amazing

How do I order one?

 

There's is a lot of very respectful fab work in here. I too, am in awe/chuckling at your trigger wheel.

The car has a great snarl to it. Good luck getting the under hood temps sorted!

EDIT: Forgot the thing is hurt. Good luck with that too.

 

Hey Tim! I had to sneak over here and watch the vids. Don't you just love torque? I'm hoping I can get the RX8 to sound that good. Same firing order anyways.

 

Hey Jeff! Yeah torque is good, but this PT5858 doesn't spool well enough to give me the short-shift low rpm torque feel of a 2560 on the 1.8. Freight train up top though. Part of me wants to buy savington's twinscroll EFR7064 but there's basically zero additional funds for this.

You can see from the pics that my headers aren't equal length, but I think the closer you can get to equal length the sweeter it might sound?

I have been slowly taking apart the bottom end to see if I can find what has been making this odd sound I have been hearing at idle. I have only removed the rod bearings and they are fucked, especially for only ~2000 miles. Looks like detonation damage/pitting and smearing of the aluminum lining. Front most (closest to oil feed) are the worse, the #6 rod bearing looks the nicest. This is backwards to traditional KL wear, where the rear bank gets the least oil supply. So I got to pay more attention to detonation it seems. And take a look at the mains, that's on the list next. Maybe tomorrow. Fortunately the journals all look fine.

These are bi-metal King bearings.

 

Hey Tim, looks like you need to get your *** in gear.

Porsche 944 V6 - Beyond.ca - Car Forums

 

Haha nice. Looks a little familiar.

I did some machining today during lunch. I'm building an electric oil priming pump because my main bearings were worn after just ~2000 miles and I would notice it would take a sec or two after the engine is running before the oil pressure gauge would move. This may not be the issue but it's something fun to build.

I got new Clevite bearings ready to go back in for the mains and rods. I still want to cut an oil pressure relief valve access hole into my oil pan before i can reassemble that. And of course my intake manifold, still here partly done since 2012. And I have to finish my electric det can thing.

 

This may be relevant - I recently noticed that both my Mazdaspeed motor mounts were tearing. That's after ~2k miles of service. Most of those miles were beating on the car, but no clutch drops. My plan is to add an engine stay after discovering that they are OE on many cars out there AND reading over and over about how miserable any kind of "positive" fastening motor mount is for vibration. The idea of a shock absorber to control the engine makes a lot of sense to me and should ease the burden on the mounts. Have you considered this?

 

Not really, no. I did at one point in my past because I think they look cool, but I have not thought about it for the V6. It's pretty smooth now that I have:

1. taken the car off jack stands. That helped a bunch.
2. adjusted the pinion angle from 'should work fine' to 'theoretically perfect'
3. Made a soft mount for the front of the PPF instead of rigidly bolting it to the trans cross member
4. had the driveshaft balanced 3 times. It ultimately had to go to a shop that had highspeed balancer, not old school machines.
5. replaced the energy suspension polyurethane transmission mount with a factory ford super squishy deform it with your hand mount.

 

I think your problem is that mounts for a BP are utterly incapable of dealing with the superior-in-every-way F-series motor.

 

I wish they made AWR mounts with rubber as an option. Would be perfect.

 

Nothing's stopping you from making those yourself.

 

Too lazy, and I dont think I could keep up with demand.

 

I'm saying just buy a set of the mounts, press out the poly, press in new rubber pieces. Done. For yourself.

Or call AWR, i bet Tony would do it for you if you ask nicely.

 

I think it's the torque on upshifts causing the rips. This on a street car that hardly knows the meaning of pulling lateral Gs. But I suspect you'll have some torque there. Of course my swap probably has more mass and a higher cg than your v6.

I don't think rubber in the AWR will work. The problem is that there isn't enough room for bushing material in the captured design for a Miata application. Hard parts take up so much valuable space in the design. Using rubber would just reach the limits of mount quicker (compress quicker.) There are loads of passenger cars that have these "stays" stock and are sold as motor mounts at pullaparts for <$10. I have also seen mtn bike coil over assemblies used in engine swaps- but unsure of a spring in the equation...?

 

SUre it would reach the limits of the mounts faster. But not while idling and cruising. It would still transmit less vibes during the times that matters than poly. And it cant tear out.

 

Pic of an engine stay you are considering?