Savington

iTrader: (31)

I wouldn't run the car with that large a leak. You will warp the turbo/manifold flanges, and then you'll never get them to seal properly again unless you remove them all and have everything surfaced.

Loosen the other 3 nuts, then tighten them all evenly. It looks like you're just pinching the nut against the turbine housing because everything else is tightened down already.

If the stud is too long, then that's BEGi's problem - our kit fits perfectly.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

100% wrong.

Hornetball, read this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed-turbo-kits-3/epic-nuts-studs-loosening-thread-reposting-stupid-stuff-without-reading-%3D-warning-35874/

The entire thing, every single post, front to back.

bboyalan

iTrader: (2)

I have already attempted this two or three times with no dice. The 15mm nut gets stuck against the housing, so there is no point wasting my time and energy beating a dead horse here. I appreciate your input though but cannot blame anyone or anything really... well except maybe the studs and/or nut lol.

ANYWAY, my turbo's bearings just sh*t the bed thanks to excessively held load when needed to get over inclines and the like. I am trying to source another Garrett T25/T28 and have inquired about an S15 GT28R locally. There is also a Godspeed T28 available on CL, but I am trying to steer clear of that for now if possible even though people have had their successes with ChinaChargers - was simply never a fan really. I am just trying to plan out how to approach the flange/stud/manifold situation this time since I can only afford to do this one more time; everyone's advice thus far is being taken into consideration. Luckily, the SR20 turbos should allow me to re-use my -3IF oil feed and the rest of the fittings; I believe anything else requires ordering a different one.

hornetball - I knew that your SN looked familiar. I enjoyed reading your build thread a month or two ago.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Except if the horse isn't dead - the pictures you've posted pretty clearly show that the nut is being caught on the rear edge by the housing. If you loosen the other 3 fully and slide the turbo back, that will free the housing from the nut and you can tighten it down from there.

The only other way would be if the flange of the nut were being caught by the turbo, but there's a washer in there that has a larger OD so that's clearly not the case.

Either that or you've galled the threads and the nut is locked up tight, which makes it seem like the turbine housing is still hitting it.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I've tried to read that thread a few times. Just don't have the time -- it's too long. Would be nice if someone would sticky a summary of the conclusions . . . kind of like the suspension hierarchy where you can go to the end and get rankings.

Don't dispute that I'm wrong. Just ask my wife.

bboyalan

iTrader: (2)

You might be correct, but the verdict will have to wait for when I remove it and play around again. Depending on how soon I can source a replacement locally, I will have time either tonight or Thursday night after classes.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Well, OK, I went and poked around some more. I saw this quote from a guy named Savington . . . do you know him?

Perhaps your objection is the recommendation of 8.8 or 10.9 bolts rather than Inconel studs. Rest assured, I would not run nor recommend 8.8/10.9 for the track. I'm with you there. However, my 8.8's are holding up well for street and some auto-x. I've put a ton of miles on with no issues. I should have asked whether OP was intending to track the car. My bad.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

damn 2 pages of posts on how to tighten 1 bolt.
damn.

bboyalan

iTrader: (2)

...and your one post calling a nut a bolt

Yes, anyone would be correct in presuming that I have no intentions on tracking this car. The manifold came with these studs already in place, so that was not my unnecessary decision.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Right. You proved it

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I just realized bboyalan has my old manifold and downpipe. So it is a Begi manifold with the TSE studs. I had them working fine with a China 2871. Although I do think I had to get them all started with the turbo apart from the manifold and then slowly tighten them all down one at a time.

I honestly would not try to remove the studs. I resbonded them in around this time last year. I would say to take the manifold with you if you are picking up a turbo locally. This way you can try and make sure it fits before you buy it.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Then it's definitely a case of having tightened the nuts unevenly. You've gotta tighten everything evenly or else the housing will bind up on one of the nuts.

crashnscar

iTrader: (9)

And that is definitely not one of the nuts we supply with the kit. You may have better luck (clearance) with a different nut.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

He's a *****.

My objection was actually to your characterization of safety wire being the final solution. The problem isn't that the hardware comes loose - it's actually an issue with the steel becoming so hot that it deforms/creeps, which reduces the preload on the fastener to zero, and then a little vibration spins it right out.

The wire doesn't keep it all together - it may stop the fasteners from turning, but that doesn't mean they won't elongate and cause a leak anyway.

The basic synopsis of the stud thread is that it's a metallurgy issue and not a fastener issue, so regardless of what solution you use to keep the fasteners from rotating, you have to address the weakness in the fastener itself.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

After looking at the picture he posted again of the close up I have to agree that he is not using the nuts you originally sent me. I sent him all the parts I originally got, except for new c-clips, the old ones were destroyed when I removed them so I bought new ones to send out.

bboyalan

iTrader: (2)

Ah, are these the "correct" nuts supplied by TSE accordingly? I honestly thought that they were just miscellaneous used bits with the others. They also measure 15mm but have a slightly smaller head. The unused BEGi standard 10mm studs accepted them easily as expected.



I left the car at home today and will do the same tomorrow because of the current turbo's condition in addition to [what I believe to be] the mains pissing themselves as mentioned earlier. I am planning on tearing into the car tomorrow night and temporarily reverting to "stock"/naturally aspirated. Hopefully my -10 AN plug arrives by Friday too. A reassessment just sounds like a good idea before investing in another turbo so soon; a select few are in sight though!

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

^^^

Those look like the stage 8 nuts and I think that's what TSE sends with their kits as well.

You should have better luck using them.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Those would be the ones that TSE sends out. Basically you install those, then put the locking clip over and then the c-clip. That makes it so that the nut can not back off itself. Between those and the Inconel studs there should be absolutely no problems of the manifold and turbo separating.

bboyalan

iTrader: (2)

Just to bring a little closure to this thread, here is how it looked when I tried threading it again with the parts removed from the car:


This is the flange sitting on top of the manifold slightly tilted.


This is as far as it will go with the turbo pulled back, wiggled, whatever.

If you look closely, you can somewhat see the section of the housing above and behind the washer that causes the fitment issue. That is what it looks like to me anyway.

I will be posting in the classifieds now and later again today to help recoup my costs, so hopefully there is some interest.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Is that the only stud that is hitting and will not allow the but to go down? If you have a local ACE hardware around you could probably go there and pick up a few extra studs. I would try cutting that one stud a few threads shorter and seeing if you can get the nut to go down.

This is going to be a street car correct and not a track car you should be fine running normal studs and nuts on the car. I ran like that for 3 years without an issue of stretching. This way you could just sale the Inconel studs and not be out as much money.

I am also very sorry that the studs are not working for you. I honestly did not have my old SR20 T25 when I installed the Inconel studs so I had no way to test them. Had I known one would be to long I would have been up front about it.