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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 03-27-2008, 11:54 PM   #21
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synthetic mobile 1 5w30
without the turbo it idles at 30psi and wot at 60psi
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:07 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
if oil pressure keep building, then hydraulic lifters keep valves open. so yes I guess valve float is a reason why. if you wanna increase your revs, you need solid lifters....Tom's motor can easily rev out to 10k without worries.

Not to mention with a solid lifter, the cam profile can be more aggressive (ramp rates and opening times), solids will make more power.
Using a solid lifter in these motors also require adjusting the valves as maintenance item or are the solid cams super super hard and don't wear quickly? I'm not familiar to the type of OHC "follower" buckets these engines have so I have absolutely no experience with them.
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:23 AM   #23
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something's whacked if your throttle is changing oil pressure independent of rpm

I'd go so far as to add "shim-under-bucket" solid lifters for revving to 10k. I'd be nervous revving the heavy over bucket shims to high revs for extended periods (higher gears)

Nice build Tom.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:01 AM   #24
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I wondered when you were going to post this up...

PM me if you are going to part with all the old stuff ;D (At least the mani/downpipe)...
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:11 AM   #25
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to the op, im loving the manifold you are making

i have a quick question, what the difference between a 3 angle valve job, and a 5?
i just noticed u had a 5 done, and ive never heard of that
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:27 AM   #26
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Better flow past the valves and better seal do to more contact points.
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Old 03-28-2008, 10:56 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by urgaynknowit View Post
to the op, im loving the manifold you are making

i have a quick question, what the difference between a 3 angle valve job, and a 5?
i just noticed u had a 5 done, and ive never heard of that
an ideal valve seat cut would be a smooth radius for flow but since that's virtually impossible to produce for cheap, shops will cut a series of angles to simulate the round edge. the more cuts, the closer the approximation is to a smooth curve.
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Old 03-28-2008, 11:30 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
I'd go so far as to add "shim-under-bucket" solid lifters for revving to 10k. I'd be nervous revving the heavy over bucket shims to high revs for extended periods (higher gears)
My head has the shim under bucket conversion as well, but it's actually the theoretical risk of water pump cavitation (as well as general engine longevity) that has me keeping the redline <9k rpm. Not too many people have been there so hard to say if it's an issue or not, but it'd suck to kill the engine over 500 more rpm when 8500 seems like plenty, especially when the torque starts dropping off after 5-6k based on dyno charts.
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:59 PM   #29
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Electric water pump! You could even set it to run a min after shutoff to keep the turbo cool, like the new TT BMW's.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brgracer View Post
especially when the torque starts dropping off after 5-6k based on dyno charts.


well let's see if Brian did a good job choosing cams before you say that
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:10 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
an ideal valve seat cut would be a smooth radius for flow but since that's virtually impossible to produce for cheap, shops will cut a series of angles to simulate the round edge. the more cuts, the closer the approximation is to a smooth curve.
i see, more cuts = smoother, got it
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:14 PM   #32
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:04 PM   #33
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very nice mani. i like it very much
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:39 PM   #34
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Step #1 DONE! Only a zillion more to go!

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