I would take jason up on the offer and see how his curve compares to the "default" AEM curve for the toyotas.

How do you create this curve anyway?

In the EMS? it's in the dwell settings. The Scion TC coils are listed. Same style coil as were using. I can send u my cal if you want Tim and you can poke thru it. I just switched over to boost comp mapping too >0psi. I like that much better then cell by cell mapping under boost.

Mitch explained and demonstrated boost comp mapping when I went to the class last year, pretty cool stuff (almost as cool as demonstrating the various anti-lags!) I never got around to doing boost comp fueling in my car as the fuel map is pretty close the way it is. But it does allow for "automatic" fuelling for higher boost, assuming you never tuned for a higher boost, etc.

I know the coil dwell settings are in the appropriate cal files/wizard files, but I want to know how AEM, Jason, or whomever actually creates the files "in a lab".

EDIT: Yah send me your cal file. I know you fixed/completely redid/started from scratch after getting my cal file. I'd like to see what you did for certain things (idle trims, accel and decel fuel trims, etc). :)

Okay, I may have found a source for the actual Toyota connectors, but I am going to make sure that it fits into the coil before I say more.

Problem is that they are like $11 a connector. Pricey, but not horrible for ~$45/set (just for the connectors not including coils) I haven't had any luck with the local junkyard so at that price, it looks good to me, but granted soldering directly to the coil is cheapest.

Once I'm sure that they fit and it's the right part, I'll post back, but is there any interest at that price?

Tom

IMO, $44 is too much to spend on just the connectors. Though good job on finding them.
But if people are afraid of making their own harnesses and willing to spend $40, I'll offer a complete plug-in harness, with soldered and heatshrunk connections for 1.6 apps. It would have pins at each terminal, labeled and color coded, just snap each one in, and would not require any cutting of any original wires so you could go back to stock at any time.

Ben, when should I send you money?!? I would need to send the plugs right?

The longer the dwell, the greater the coil "charge" current and thus the stronger the spark. However, there is a point beyond which current will no longer increase, and the igniter will quicly overheat. Just before this point it the optimal dwell. It varies with voltage, thus the "curve" (vs. voltage). I also test running the coil at high RPM and high voltage at the optimal dwell point and make sure it doesn't overheat after 2 hours or so.

SOL, if you have Toyota COPs and a 1.6, no you wouldn't have to send me any parts. I would need interest from maybe 2-3 people though to order the wire and connectors needed. Once I had the parts, I could get them all done inside of a week.

Well you got one right here! I bet there are alot of other people that would be interested.

Which connectors are you going to be using?

Actually dwell is more the time it takes for the magnetic field to build. Too much dwell (more then needed for core saturation) is not needed and creates excessive heat in the windings and drivers. Not enough dwell and the coil's output is weakened due to the lower field that wasn't fully built. afaik

I'll get that to you tonight. I only used your timing map to test your timing curve. I overlooked where my breakpoints were set vs. yours so I had a hell of alot detonation with it. (see pics. lol) I ended up with a scratch timing map and scratch fuel maps and dialing in things as I learn more and more about the system. Oh, I found the 2-step and used that for anti-lag and added an additional switch inline with the clutch pedal (for enable/disable) so it's clutch activated. I don't even have to let off the throttle to shift! oh yeh! :bigtu: But it's got to be hell on the exhaust valves considering 10psi with -17 timing must be a flame-thrower out the exhaust ports. haha

Insta-spool Antilag NLTS ftw! Shooting flames is cool too:bigtu:

Dammit, I need a turbo ASAP.

Yes... you do! :bigtu:
and COP. :bigtu:

COP's are sitting in the garage, and one in my room FWIW.

Just need to source connectors.

Thanks, however I have (all miatas have?) a clutch switch from the factory that'll work for the 2-step. They actually have two, one for the ignition safety switch and another clutch switch. Right? Yeah, I remember the spring broke and it caused the Link to not work right.

I also used the 2 step (via ignition retard, of course) as a "open loop" antilag, very simple to quickly setup. The TT's don't need antilag so it's just a standard ignition cut rev limiter now...

anyways I now have it turning off at ~24 mph and (unrelated to the clutch switch), which is a few mph slower than the vehicle speed in 1st gear at the 2step cut rpm. It acts as a ghetto traction control (never tried the actual traction control function) assuming I don't spin the tires. I find it easier to feather/slip the clutch at a steady 4900rpm (@ WOT) than at 7400, etc.

I see, thanks.

I'd be interested.

Find out what's offered for quantity. ;)

Will do, but will have to wait as I'll be sending the coils I bought to Jason first so he can test them for the optimal dwell times, etc...

Cool on both fronts, but can you not hang one to a coil, or send Jason only one coil... Or I can send Jason a coil. Or something.

Since I was getting the item shipped from the buyer anyway, I figured that I'd just send them directly to Jason to save time. Thanks for the offer though.

mine will be here Friday...hahaha, everyone is going COP.

Why wouldn't you? Cheaper then replacing the stock spark plug wires and a much better system overall.

i feel kinda special, being the second person to go COP lol, i know a lot of people are thinking about soldering to the pins, and filling it with epoxy, but what if one day you have to replace the coil?

Flipster! How's it working out for you? What ecu are you running them on again? hehe I'm all warm and fuzzy watching my brainchild grow. :)

Sign me up for connectors too. I haven't bought the plugs yet, but once I have the connectors that should be the easy part.

One weird thing I noticed upon taking off my coils- there dont appear to be any wires on the coil side of the harness so my hopes of making a plugable harness setup are stillborn. I guess I will just hack apart the stock harnesses to do the wiring.

Still, this seems very sweet. I can't wait to get mine.

i'm still running the stock ecu, i don't plan to go too crazy with it, as far the future goes with an ecu, i plan to do EMU, i have nothing really to compare my MPG with so i'm not to positive if my MPG went up, it seems really low, but then again i was told before that the 6 speed will do that to the car. I definetley enjoy knowing that all the little ignition stutters i use to have are all gone, and feel the car is much smoother, i even cleaned up the wiring a little bit more since my original pictures were posted

Awesum another success story showing noticable improvement. That was the goal plus the cost savings on wires. :bigtu: Post pics because you used a different coil so lets see how it finally turned out.

how many pounds of boost you running flippy?

1) Solder the wire to the coil
2) Fill with epoxy
3) cover with heat shrink (over the coil connecter and wires, mostly for looks)

I would run all the wires to the rear of the valve cover and connect them to the chassis harness with a weather pack connector. If one needs replacing in the future it is simple to remove the pins from the connector, stick the new soldered/epoxied coil in, crimp on new pins, and re-insert them. Weather packs are a god send.

if you do quick-connects at each 4 wires, then you'd only have to re-epoxy that connector each time, not a big deal.

Magnetic field strength is proportional to current.

The primary of the coil is say 2ohm, 12 into 2 ohms draws 6amps. Drawing 6amps for longer then it takes for the field to build (dwell) is excessive. Dwell is a time variable not a current variable.

My 1.6 is officially running on COPs in wasted spark on the stock ecu. Hopefully sometime this weekend it will be running on MSII. I'll probly just keep it on ws for a while because I'm way to lazy to wire it up for sequential ignition right now.

Sweet! Congrats....

You MSII fockers make me think i should go that route sometimes.

Go AEM! $399 =)

could EMU be setup to run sequential? i was reading up on it, and saw it could be setup for 4 channel ignition

I don't think so. I'll look into it

who's still doing group buys on coils and/or connectors?

I was offering it but no one wanted any. Coils $60 a set but I need 6 buyers

Lazzer I am interested, but I need a time....2 weeks from now would be good for me.

When I have 6 buyers I can get them. I'll put you down.

A'ite, fuckit. Lazzer, put me down too. Toyota coils like the ones you use, right?

put me down. i'll get them even if i dont use them and sell them to someone for 65.

COPs pwn!

I take it you like it?

totally fixed the bogging on the old ass long block in the car right now. my guess is that my ignitor was on the fritz. Anywho, I'm very happy that the motor will last me long enough to get my motor stuff back from the machine shop and assemble the bitch. all I needed was a few more weeks, looks like ill get that at least.

SOL General
TurboTim
y8s

I have you guys covered. Toss in $5 for shipping usps.
Total $65

Paypal to Lazzer408@yahoo.com

I will personally test them before shipment.

Only 3 more orders. COP guys lets go! Get some of them m-net guys over here. (feel's like I'm pushing crack)

EDIT - Sorry Tim I forgot to mention. Yes they are the 1ZZFE coils I used.

I'm down. Paypal tomorrow.

It's definitly a hot spark off those little bad boys. I keep forgetting to get some pics of that. lol

Got you on the list.

2 to go.

I have so many things going on I'm loosing it. :eek5: I contacted a old friend who's built custom machinery with all sorts of specialty connectors per. his specs. He had everything made. I asked him for some input and he's going to see what it might run to have connector's made. You would have to crimp or solder wires to them yourselfs. It would be plastic plugs and terminals he said. My fingers are crossed that I won't need to buy 100,000 of them to get them for $.50ea :D

Put me down too. I'm into it. Who was making the reversible set up again?

Edit: Also, I'll be going to the shippers on Monday to ship a valve cover to Ben possibly. I shipped one to Jersey a while back for powdercoating and it wasn't too expensive.

Ok your in. 1 more to go.

Reversable what?

Sorry I'm not bustin' out CAD for this so paintbrush it is. :D Someone have a head/valvecover laying around to check how much room is under the area right around the plug holes? I was thinking something like this could work, look good, and be done with hardware parts for a few dollars. Maybe use locknuts to hold the bolt to the valvecover and the washers might not be needed. A steel bolt head would seal against the aluminum just fine by itself. Cut the bolt just long enough and use nice chrome acorn nuts or even wing nuts for quick plug access for all the racers.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...mountLarge.jpg

I've never tried it, but that would appear to be the case. Below are excerpts from the EMU install manual. http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/2...diagramro6.gif

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4325/ignchartfr4.gif


The tuning manual also notes that CAS input is necessary for the conversion. I'm not sure if the EMU will like the Miata's CAS since it does not have a discrete #1 sensor...

At any rate, y'all have inspired me to do the same, I've got my Corolla coils sitting on the bench, a dead miata ignitor to salvage for the connector (making this truly plug-n-play) and I've ordered a piece of 1.5" x .25" aluminum flat stock to make a bracket out of. I plan to use the three long bolts which normally hold the valve cover in place to also hold a bracket down, and then a bolt will thread through each coil into the bracket. (Although I must admit, Lazzer's idea is sufficiently sexy that you've got me thinking about doing that instead.)

I've never tried it, but that would appear to be the case. Below are excerpts from the EMU install manual. http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/2...diagramro6.gif
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4325/ignchartfr4.gif


The tuning manual also notes that CAS input is necessary for the conversion. Mine isn't connected, and I have no desire to crawl that far back into the wiring right now.

At any rate, y'all have inspired me to do the same, I've got my Corolla coils sitting on the bench, a dead miata ignitor to salvage for the connector (making this truly plug-n-play) and I've ordered a piece of 1.5" x .25" aluminum flat stock to make a bracket out of. I plan to use the three long bolts which normally hold the valve cover in place to also hold a bracket down, and then a bolt will thread through each coil into the bracket. (Although I must admit, Lazzer's idea is sufficiently sexy that you've got me thinking about doing that instead.)

I had the same thought. In fact I have the dead ignitor sitting right here with me at my office desk with the coils. Incedintally, I have been informed by SWMBO that these items are no longer permittable in the kitchen. :dunno:

My original plan was to pop the ignitor open and use it as a PNP plug. However the damn thing is sealed shut, and my options for tool use are limited to torch and zis wheel. Hardly the precision instrument required.

Please keep me informed.

I dunno about the need for pnp really, I've been daily driving my coils for a couple days now and if anything its better than it was before. I don't see myself ever converting backward. After a long 45min drive on backroads (read: in the mountains, at high rpms) I can pull over and feel the COPs and they are "cool" to the touch in under hood temps speak. They simply don't feel like they are going to over heat at all.