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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-09-2007, 11:55 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
I wanna print those things and just make an identical set of pipes!!lol/jk
That answered alot of my ''I wonder if I could just......'' questions...(ie: comp. outlet to a 90* bend should work, at an angle maybe??...
you could easily roate the housing back a tiny bit and go straight down with it and the angle toward the front, just like BEGi and FM. But once you cut the mouting plate off for the coolant hardline, you get lots of room inbetween the PS and shelf. I'll take a few more shots today of how I moved my PS line to fit it. The fact that I just needed 90 coupler and 90 pipe was nice though.

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I wonder if need to mount the bottom of the IC to anything..the pipes should hold it tight I hope!)......
I didn't see the need as my mounts up top keep it very sturdy and the pipes below don't move.
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:17 PM   #22
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Sam, glad this may help u out...If you need particular pics or anything now's the time! As you can see I'm a rookie, but my hands ARE dirty, so if there's anything I can help you with let me know...Good luck on your adventure!

Brain, def would love some more shots...My pics are deceiving..I cant get it to point straight down without notching the shelf...and I'm not too thrilled about the idea right now...I have the FM instructions, with the template and all...looks easy...I'm gonna play with it some more once I get the lower radiator hose replaced, AND the comp outlet adapter...I have a feeling that with the comp out. adapter its gonna be too tight and may require notching the shelf to get the best setup! I'm not "scared", just if I can avoid it I'd like to...we'll see

-Slight update, been talking to WOT about the lines/fittings/etc..Cool guy, good peoples...and in case anyone has their head up their **** like me...he's a dealer for Atp Turbo, check out their site..lots of goodies, but go to WOT to order!!!...That said I should be hearing from him today, and ordering....

-Also bought the IC with me to work...gonna try to hit up Home Depot/Hardware store and get the appropriate bolts/straps...I'm gonna do exactly the way FM does it....Gonna by some extra straps in case I decide to try and secure the bottom some too...Doubt it, but if I find an easy way I will, why not right?
LOL @ me, bringing a 18x12 IC to HD just to see which bolts fit!**
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:45 PM   #23
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If it isn't to much trouble I would like to see a better picture of exactly what you had to unbolt to rotate the compressor to point differently.

I here some people ditch MAF and go to a MAP sensor on turbo setups. What made you want to stick with MAF? How will you mount the MAF to the turbo?(always wondered what people do without kits).

Will you be assembling your own megasquirt if the PNP doesnt come out? What will you do if neither occur?

What made you decide to go for an atmospheric purging BOV and not recirculating?

Heres something I always wondered.
I see that begi offers downpipes and turbine outlets in one size, what size exhaust are they designed for?
What if you have a larger then stock exhaust, do you need a larger down pipe and outlet?
Basically, to make a complicated question simple, how do you pick/match the exhaust to the outlet/downpipe?
Can you buy one outlet/downpipe for use with the stock exhaust and then upgrade the exhaust without the latter components?
Do all turbos hang in the same place? Is resting place standardized so any exhaust can be bolted to it?

Would be nice if you could Bold these and answer one by one. No rush, I have till october.
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:01 PM   #24
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I believe the bolts for the IC are m10 x 1.25 or something...could be wrong...it's easier your way.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
If it isn't to much trouble I would like to see a better picture of exactly what you had to unbolt to rotate the compressor to point differently.
WILL DO THIS FOR YOU TONIGHT

Quote:
I here some people ditch MAF and go to a MAP sensor on turbo setups. What made you want to stick with MAF? How will you mount the MAF to the turbo?(always wondered what people do without kits).
HAVEN'T FIGURED THAT PART OF THE BUILD OUT YET, I THINK THAT W/ MS YOU KINDA HAVE TO DITCH THE MAF for MAP...STAY TUNED WE'LL FIND OUT TOGETHER..LOL

Quote:
Will you be assembling your own megasquirt if the PNP doesnt come out? What will you do if neither occur?
I'M AGAIN FIGURING MURPHY'S LAW AND ASSUMING IT WONT BE AVAILABLE..I'VE RECRUITED 2 OR 3 "TECHIES" (CHEAP LABOR THEY LOVE THIS STUFF) AND WILL GET THE MANUAL TO SEE IF ITS SOMETHING THEY CAN DEF DO...IF NOT, I'LL MOST LIKELY HAVE DIYAUTO SEND ME A BUILT ONE...OR MAYYYYYYBE GO AT IT MYSELF..BUT THATS PROB A LAST RESORT..(NO SOLDERING/PC BUILDING EXP)

Quote:
What made you decide to go for an atmospheric purging BOV and not recirculating?
NOT A DD, MOSTLY FOR TRACK/AUTOX DAYS SO NO PROB W/ THE LAW...AS FOR PERF. WISE I CAN ALWAYS CHANGE SETUP TO RECIRC

Quote:
Heres something I always wondered.
I see that begi offers downpipes and turbine outlets in one size, what size exhaust are they designed for?
What if you have a larger then stock exhaust, do you need a larger down pipe and outlet?
Basically, to make a complicated question simple, how do you pick/match the exhaust to the outlet/downpipe?
Can you buy one outlet/downpipe for use with the stock exhaust and then upgrade the exhaust without the latter components?
Do all turbos hang in the same place? Is resting place standardized so any exhaust can be bolted to it?
THIS ONE GOT AWAY FROM ME A LIL BIT...HOPE THIS HELPS...BEGI'S DP BOLTS UP TO THE STOCK EXHAUST FLANGE (I BELIEVE PRECAT)...I WILL BE USING A CUSTOM 3" EXHAUST, AND WHEN I SPOKE W/ STEPH, SHE HAD A GREAT/SIMPLE IDEA...CUT THE STOCK EXHAUST FLANGE, AND USE IT ON THE NEW PIPING...PRESTO.....NOW I HAVE NO EMISSIONS/SMOG, AND ITS NOT A DD, SO LIKE I SAID I'M DOING 3" STRAIGHT (NO CAT) TO A MAGNAFLOW MUFFLER...YOU'LL HAVE TO ASK ABOUT AFTERMARKET EXHAUST SYSTEMS, BUT I'D THINK IT'D WORK SINCE MOST AFTERMARKET SYSTEMS ARE CATBACK, SO THEY'D HAVE TO BOLT UP TO STOCK FLANGES.....IF NOT U CAN PROB GET SOMEONE TO USE THE STOCK FLANGE ON THE AFTERMARKET SYSTEM AS WELL.......AS FOR TURBO LOCATION, FROM WHAT I CAN TELL THE MANIFOLD SEEMS TO BE THE DECIDING FACTOR...SOME SIT LOWER OR HIGHER, BUT I THINK FOR THE MOST PART ITS PRETTY CLOSE...SORRY IF NOT MUCH HELP, BUT I MADE UP MY MIND TO USE BEGI FOR MANI+DP A WHILE BACK, AND I KNOEW I WAS GOING CUSTOM 3" EXHAUST, SO MY ONLY THOUGHT WAS DP FLANGE WHICH WAS NO BIGGIE....




Here ya go...like I said pics will be later since i'm at work...hope this helped, and maybe someone can chime in to help you out as well...

**
Might be funny to see a guy walking around HD w/ I/C in hand...but at least I'll know what I'm getting...I gotta get one of those bolt/thread measuring thingies...I'm hoping to have the I/C setup tonight or tomm night...sounds easy..3 straight brackets, 4holes, 4bolts, 2 existing bolts....Bet the hardest part is getting it straight/level...

Last edited by Braineack; 07-10-2007 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:31 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
If it isn't to much trouble I would like to see a better picture of exactly what you had to unbolt to rotate the compressor to point differently.

For you Sam...
1st pic shows turbine housing bolts--there's 5 or 6, simply break 'em free and unscrew a lil (about 1/2 way)...once you do that (and take off the wg) the turbine can be clocked/rotated whatever..
2nd pic shows comp housing bolts/brackets--there's 2 brackets, with 2 bolts holding each bracket...again loosen, and then you have to strongly, but gently/calmly/smoothly rotate the comp housing....
***If these dont serve the purpose I'll take better one's when I take the turbo off the car again...was just too lazy to do it tonight..Anything else I can help u with lemme know!


***And for all, 3rd pic is 1st part of IC mounting...I wasn't even planning on doing anything tonight, but couldnt resist...So I grabbed the hacksaw and cut a bracket, then drilled 2 holes...nothing to brag about..

FYI home depot doesnt really have metric bolts, at least not in any size that seems useful to an automobile....But VOILA, open my intercooler box and there's 4 bolts!!! Home depot did have alum brackets...tho..

There's gonna be some washers in there, just like that for now...
Enjoy...WOT is expecting my call so i can finally order my lines/fittings/etc..
Attached Thumbnails
Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-turbine-bolts.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-comp-bolts.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-intercooler-part1.jpg  
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:08 AM   #27
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Thanks a lot of the explanation and the pictures.

I think you answered my exhaust question. If I understood correctly normally you would re use the stock pipe between the catalytic and the exhaust manifold, to connect the downpipe to the cat and then after the cat you can have a larger exhaust?

In my mind what I want to know is, if you get a 3 inch exhaust and want to retain your catalytic, how do you connect the cat to the downpipe? What is this piece called? Would this be a turbo back exhaust?

Confusion++, but once I'm set straight I should be good.

--------------

About the wideband O2 sensor. I was reading the FAQ and it basically says that its usefull for an an after market ECU but if you(the person) will be doing tuning its pretty useless.
Does the aftermarket ECU use both the OEM and a WideBand O2, or just one, or replace the OEM with a wideband to properly meter the AFR?

Last edited by Saml01; 07-10-2007 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:29 AM   #28
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Tony.....you gotta rotate the center section to be veritcal.
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:55 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Tony.....you gotta rotate the center section to be veritcal.
Im guessing that you cant just rotate the turbine or compressor to any angle, the bolts have to line up with the holes.

I like to be thorough

------

Reading the FAQ and just thinking logically, I think you will need a new fuel pump to match your larger injectors. But I hear that most people are getting away with 265cc injectors that come stock I believe if they are making in the neighborhood of 200hp.

Just curious, other then doing the math how else would you know if its time for larger injectors?
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:02 PM   #30
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Brain---I was leaning over when I took the pic...it's perfectly vertical, just a bad pic for orientation...but thnaks for looking out!...

Sam--if you look under the car you'll see a flange BEFORE the cat...from that flange UP to the headers get removed, but its actually 2 pieces (headers + downpipe), you just remove as 1 piece.... Then BEGI downpipe connects to the turbo, and to the cat... If you want to retain the cat, there should be a flange just AFTER the cat, where you can bolt up your exhaust...
**Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but this is the way I understand it...
***Sam, the BEGI DP I was told was being built...but wont be here for at least another week or so...When I get it I'll go picture crazy for you...

***Again correct me if I'm wrong guys, btu in ref to the wb02...I think you can run it either with the stock one (run 2), or by itself...And I think you have it backwards, it's only useful if tuning yourself...if you go somewhere to get it tuned, they will have one they can temp install...
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:01 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
Brain---I was leaning over when I took the pic...it's perfectly vertical, just a bad pic for orientation...but thnaks for looking out!...
duh i see it now....blocks usually arent sitting on 30 angle
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:18 PM   #32
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Lol...not true, when I did my swap my engine was sitting at 30degrees until I realized the motormount was lined up...took 3days of fighting!!!!
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Old 07-10-2007, 04:48 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post

Sam--if you look under the car you'll see a flange BEFORE the cat...from that flange UP to the headers get removed, but its actually 2 pieces (headers + downpipe), you just remove as 1 piece.... Then BEGI downpipe connects to the turbo, and to the cat... If you want to retain the cat, there should be a flange just AFTER the cat, where you can bolt up your exhaust...
**Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but this is the way I understand it...
***Sam, the BEGI DP I was told was being built...but wont be here for at least another week or so...When I get it I'll go picture crazy for you...

AH HA. I figured out why I was so confused.

The first picture is what I saw on flyin miata while doing my research. If you noticed I may have mentioned "turbine outlet" and "downpipe". For some reason at some point I started to think they were the same thing. Hence, my question, which effectively is, how does the down-pipe reach all the way to the cat. Why did I ask, looking at the picture its really short, and no way the cat is that close to the turbo. Thats where all the confusion came. The second picture I just found on Begi's site and after re reading flyin miata I saw where I was confused. Two piece down pipe.

The next question is about the third picture. Why dont you get one of those manifolds? I hear that the larger tubes allow the exhaust to reach higher velocity upon exit.

Third question referring to the third picture as well, where are you getting the piece that allows you to mount the maf/map between the air filter and compressor?
Attached Thumbnails
Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-22-20100.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-1.8_downpipe2-copylg.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-1.8_miata_s4_3.jpg  
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Old 07-10-2007, 05:07 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
AND if I understand the drain really needs to be 100% vertical for proper drainage??
I've always tried to keep it as vertical as possible, but direct from Garrett's turbo guide:

"The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after key-off. The layout of the [water] pipes should eliminate peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger approximately 25 degrees about the axis of shaft rotation."

Also,

"Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over approximately 40 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil oulet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go 'uphill' at any point."
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Old 07-10-2007, 05:13 PM   #35
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Sam I suggest you start posting your own threads.
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Old 07-10-2007, 05:27 PM   #36
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You are right.I guess my manifold question is on topic, but the rest I agree should be in its own thread.

I apologize :(, I guess I did get a little carried away with the hijacking.

Sorry tvalenziano.
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:32 PM   #37
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Hey man its all good, but yea I appreciate it...
But dont just become a refuge now...just fyi on that 3rd pic..you'll have to research and decide for yourself...but from what I gathered, the turbo i'm using spools super fast, so it wasnt really neccessary(overkill?), also they are more prone to cracking and whatnot vs a cast iron piece, but they can be fixed easily(durability?), and its more money (el cheapo?)..lol
As for the piece for the map, I simply havent gotten that far yet...

TurboTim, I saw that too...but as with most of the info on their site it left alot unanswered for me...everyone on here always says vertical for the oil drain, so...I just followed the herd..
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:39 PM   #38
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I did some research, seems that the curvy manifold is not for T3 turbos. Dont worry about being cheap, it wouldn't have worked for you anyway .
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:54 PM   #39
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Slight update...called Begi today to see status on the dp (sam's ? reminded me to follow up), and they had already shipped it out!!! Which was great, until I asked them to verify about the wb02 bung, and 3" after the flex.., somethign what arry, and it shipped incorrectly..they intercepted it via ups, and rerouted back to them so they can correct...So I guess it'll be mid next week or so, which is what was originally anticipated when I ordered due to fab time...oh well.....

Big update, on the misc parts...for the time being I'll leave out where I ordered from, but once I receive/inspect/install I'll post my full opinions...I'll say this much now, service/advice/patience upfront has been fantastic...Good news is if all is good (prob will be), I was able to get the following from 1 place, 1 order.....This should spare a few people a ton of legwork...thanks to the "anonymous source" which will soon be revealed!
Parts ordered...

Oil Drain Flange (1)
Oil Return Gasket (1)
Inlet Gasket (1)
14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb (2)
Straight 1/2" NPT to -10 AN (1)
45 Degree 1/2" NPT to -10 AN (1)
Custom Oil Feed Line 90*/90*/ @ 30" (ss braided) (1)
Custom Oil Return Line straight/45*/ @ 25" (ss braided) (1)
Wastegate reloc Bracket (1)
HOSE-RUBBER-3/8"- (6 ft)
Coupler 2.00" to 2.50" (3)
(SS) Straight Pipe 2.00" (6ft)
(SS) 90 Degree Elbow 2.00" (6)
(SS) 90 Degree Elbow 2.50" (2)
T-Bolt Clamp - 2.25" (9)
T-Bolt Clamp - 2.75" (7)
Straight Coupler 2.00" (4)
45* Coupler 2.00" (1)
90* Coupler 2.00" (1)
Straight Coupler 2.50" (2)
Aem Uego WB02

With this chunk taken care of...I'm sitting at about 3k spent( dont tell da wife!! ), and with MS, clutch, & exhaust being the biggest items left...Others include DIY fuel rail hardware, gauge pods, vacuum lines+fittings, air filter, heat shielding, and lower rad hose...and MAYBE a lightweight flywheel..(I hear some say this us a no/no on turbo cars??? Need some opinions there)...Gonna end up a lil over budget, but with what should be a badass setup...I hope...

Comments, concerns, thoughts, questions, etc are welcome...
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:57 PM   #40
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I did some research, seems that the curvy manifold is not for T3 turbos. Dont worry about being cheap, it wouldn't have worked for you anyway .
Now ur starting to make me second guess myself..lol...I dont have a t3, I have a gt25...per begi site
"549.00 p/n 60402 '94 to '97, External Wastegate, w/ EGR, T25 or T28 Turbo" ...of course you'd have to ditch the intg wg...
Either way I'm happy so far...just would like to know for the sake of knowing....
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