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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-15-2007, 02:05 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Core, or overall dimensions? If core, please post overall. Just curious. Thx
Overall dimensions.....crxracing.com, but u can buy fron one of their ebay auctions & save 10bucks...I paid like $90 shipped...
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Old 07-18-2007, 03:02 PM   #82
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Default Progress Update

Ok, finally got a chance to escape from the in-laws and do SOME work...

I did the lower radiator hose re-route with the flex hose...It seems fine..I may need to re-adjust because it's still very tight for pipes with the PS...I also cut about an inch off the PS line and pushed it as far onto the nipple as possible to make some more room. I know everyone has complained about it, and successfully done it, but at this point I'm scratching my head with the piping...I mocked it up a few diff ways (no cutting yet) and wasnt getting any to really work...I'm gonna have to redo the flex hose to make some room...the hardest part I see is ACTUALLY making the 45* or 90* out of the comp outlet...the coupler hits the hose...

Also did the oil feed...straight forward...unbolt, insert the oil feed fitting in its place..My line had a 90* fitting on each end...So far I'm routing it up from the feed location (facing the front of the car), under the turbo and around to the top..Staying away from manifold...

I'm still awaiting my downpipe from Begi, should hopefully be here in the next couple days...Once that comes in, I'll be able to really start moving some on this...Unfortunately right now I'm held up...Dont want to really install everything till its here so i can have exact placement...

Also I have a "teckie" researching the MS to see how much he wants to assemble...Should be getting back to me today/tomm..

I'm at work now, some pics will be on tonight...
Looks like we hit a lil slow point, but stay with me guys, we'll be rockign soon!
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Old 07-18-2007, 03:09 PM   #83
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I can do the MS for you....


on my PS line, I was able to flip the line so it comes up and back forward to the resivoir. not under and back, which was in the way of my pipes. The line that screws in stayed in the stock location for me.
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Old 07-18-2007, 03:26 PM   #84
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Umm u'd actually volunteer..? I wouldnt mind "donating" a lil somethign something...

Also I was thinking about workign something on the PS hose...If i can somehow get the radiator hose lower, or bring it foward and out of the way It should work...I even notched the shelf to clock the turbo straight down...Still too tight..I know I'll figure it out with trial and error, just dont want to waste pipes for the trial and error...
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Old 07-18-2007, 04:47 PM   #85
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Brain, question about the DIY fuel rail...
I called the local advanced auto, and they have pretty much everything...
Couple things I'm unsure of..

1-1/8" NPT tap: I have a tap/die set at home, but doesnt specify "npt"...also the one advanced is selling doesn't specify either..they "are sure" it's all the same...but I've learned that when they "are sure", dont listen...Can u shed some light?

2-5/16" tee: They dont have this in brass, only plastic...Will that be fine, or def get brass?

3-1/8-5/16 brass fitting: Dumb I know but this is 1/8" thread to a 5/16" BARB correct?

Other than that they have the rest..just to double check...
21/64 drill bit (already own)
5/16" hose clamps (already have some)
2' of 5/16" fuel inj line (they carry)
j/b weld (already own)
grease (already own)

Instructions seem pretty straight forward in your writeup...basically drill the "back" of the rail, tap it, screw in/jb weld the fitting fitting ,and tee off/reconnect the lines...Anything else? Curing time is 24hrs right? Basically use the JB like thread lock, only MORE? Have you heard of ANYONE having issues with leaks?

Gonna try and do this tonight...While I'm waiting for the DP and whatnot i can do this, then the i/c piping and at least have that SIDE done...I know it's the easier part of the build, but at this point having some of the "to-do" list completed will feel like I'm getting SOMEwhere!
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Old 07-18-2007, 05:15 PM   #86
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well i wouldn't do it for free :gay:

yeah, drill the back of the rail, tap it, screw in fitting. split the feed, the end.


tap: probably npt (what I like to do is drill into wood or spare metal and test both tap and drill bit to see if they work together, then screw in teh fitting to make sure the tap is correct.

brass tee: if you cant find it (try pepboys and advanced), if not go to ACE or Lowes and build one...get a Tee with three female 1/8" threads and get (3) 1/8" to 5/16" fittings.

fittings: yep barb or slip-on or whatever

Last edited by Braineack; 07-18-2007 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 07-19-2007, 12:08 AM   #87
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Default Progress PICS

Ok well here u go guys...pics of the oil feed fitting from the block, a not so good one of the lower radiator flex hose, and an idea of the routing for the oil feed line...Of course the oil feed line will not be left like that...

***I WAS able to get al the parts for the DIY fuel rail at Advanced Auto parts (for those of you that like 1 stop shoppign like me!)...Unfortunately the in-laws stoel me away as soon as i got back from the store tho...

As for the piping, I was lookign tryign to figure it out...Its not really the lower rad hose..I can prob squeeeeze by that, there's a hose right under it, closer to firewall..it actually looks like a hardline, with a section of hose in the middle...Anyway my issue is not the actual 90* bend, its being able to come DOWN out of the comp outlet enough to MAKE any kind of bend..
I measure 2.5"-2.75" MAX between that line and the bead around the comp outlet adapter....Not enough room for 90* pipe or coupler and YES I did think of trimming both but thee's no way...My only chance is to see WHAT it is(hopefully Haynes can identify it), and to figure out a way to move it further forward (towards the radiator) to allow me the 4" I need to make the turn....After that I'm ok with another 8"+45* drop to be level with the IC inlet...then a simple 90* into the IC.....Haveb't done much w/ the outlet side of the IC...but looks like a simple 90* from TB, then around and into the IC outlet...Looks tight with the fans, but should be ok...

Also the 2nd to last pic is just a routing idea I had if all else fails...clockign the turbo the exact opposite way and makign the turn THEN going down...I dont liek it because it's more piping, AND will make it VERY hard when its time to put an airfilter/inlet pipe in there....

***LAST pic is marked (poorly) to better show the routing issue
Attached Thumbnails
Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-lower-rad-flex-hose.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-oil-feed-fitting.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-oil-feed-line-routing.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-dsc00391-medium-.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-problem-1.jpg  


Last edited by TonyV; 07-19-2007 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:40 PM   #88
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Hmm. I guess this is why the Begi kit performs a coolant bypass. Is it the line you are referring too or another line that they eliminate?
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Old 07-19-2007, 09:54 PM   #89
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I'm confused. You're showing pictures of power steering lines, as well as the coolant hardline under the manifold. Circle what you need to move, and we'll tell you what it is.

That hardline needs to be bent, by the way. Take it out (pull it out of the fitting, it's just an o-ring), throw it in a vise, and carefully bend it from 90 to 45 degrees.

Also, replace your heater hoses. I can tell from just looking at them that they need to be done.
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Old 07-19-2007, 10:17 PM   #90
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you need to copy how I do it, its a 90* off the turbo and and 90* bend, thats it....

you can see how I pulled the PS line out of the way, just swivel it up out of the way and route the pipe underneath.

cut the bracket that the radiator hose used to bolt to.

and then slip pipe up through from underneath. May need to pull the front PS line out of the way.

go back and study my pics.





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Old 07-20-2007, 11:55 PM   #91
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guys both real good points, and brain thanks again for great pics!
I dont think the PS will be an issue as I already have it turned upwards (just took the pic before doing so).

From what u guys have explained I'm pretty convinced that it is the coolant hardline..FM mentions bending it slightly, but I thought they were referring to the line that becomes a heater hose, and I couldnt figure out what the issue was so I never bent it...now it makes sense! Just in case I've attached a pic w/ the problem line circled as requested...

Dont see hwat u mean about the heater hoses, they look pretty good, please clarify...maybe the pics make them seem worse...

*So I'm hoping to finally get to cross some stuff off the list this weekend...I have a short "to-do" list, then pickup my sis-in-law who is flying in, and hopefully all the in-laws can play nice and I can get caught up...My wife's family is german, u'd think I'd be able to get them all working in there and put that "german engineering" to work! :gay:

Anyway, even if i dont get to do all this since I'll basically only have a solid day, here's what I hope to get accomplished...(not in exact order of course)
-Turbo side IC piping
-TB side IC piping
-DIY dual feed
-oil pressure gauge/sender swap
-send out injectors (witchhunter)
-any other tidbits I can

**Couple questions that came up...
1-The oil drain fittign I have for the oil pan seems HUGE. Its about an inch, maybe a lil (not much) less in diameter. Is this tooo big? It obviously fits my lines/oil drain flange, but I was just thinkign where da hell am i gonna get a tap that big! I havent looked for one yet, just igured I'd ask...I have posted a pic in the previous page or 2 when I posted pics of what i got in my "big order" (45* fitting).

2-I've been waiting for that damn dp to get here...now it wont be here till mid next week.. ANyway, I havent wanted to really get to work on plumbing the turbo/lines, and really installign the manifold because I'm afraid i'd have to remove/loosen everythign in order to align the DP during installation or whatnot....Is this true??? Or can I finish the manifold, egr fitting, turbo, lines, clocking, etc etc and DEF (150% sure) not have to undo thigns to get the DP in?? It'd be nice to get that stuff outta the way....ONLY if I dont have to redo shiznit once the dp arrives...

Thanks guys!
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Old 07-22-2007, 12:37 AM   #92
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Default Progress Update---w/ Pics!!!!

Wooohooo, turbo side IC piping 99% complete...Need to cut 1 more pipe but I ran outta energy...TIP****USE A POWER SAW WITH THE PROPER BLADE..this will save you time cutting, and time sanding down rough edges..I thought a hacksaw would "get er dun", but nahhhh. I mean I COULD, but it took me about 20min of hacking for 1 cut, plus another 10min of sanding the edges...30per cut is BS...

So basically I bent the line I circled in the previous pic/post, but that wasnt enough...I THINK I ran into the PS line Brain was telling me about, it comes from the radiator as a thick coolant line, then bends up to the PS or AC (I forget) as a thick hard line....I carefully bent that UP, and got my pipe in UNDER it...Also I redid the coolant line higher as well....

More specifically....
-Trimmed the PS soft line a bit at the nipple and pushed it further onto the nipple to make a tighter turn (otherwise it iterfers witht he comp outlet)...And rotated it UP (you have to be in there to know what I mean) in order to make room for pipes to go UNDER
-Routed the Lower rad hose the same as stock but also higher up (about the same height as PS), also to allow pipes to go UNDER
-Unbent the hard coolant line mentioned above..it interferes with the comp outlet..(now the comp outlet sits INSIDE the 45*(used to be 90*) bend
-Bent the PS line that goes from middle of radiator(soft line & makes the 90* turn up as a hardline) to PS pump UP and made the bend SLIGHTLY tighter..again routed pipes UNDER this...

The piping is routed as follows for me...
-Comp outlet clocked to ALMOST 90*down
-90* coupler facing the front of the car (slightly towards the wheel, and had
to trim about 1.5" off the end that goes on the comp outlet)
-Staight pipe about 12"-14"
-45*coupler brings the end of the straight pipe to within a 90* angle of the
IC inlet
-90*Hard pipe connecting the IC inlet to the previous mentioned 45* coupler
***I WAY OVER ORDERED FOR THIS SIDE (only used 90*/45*coupler +
90*hard pipe and small section of straight pipe...)

Thast all the progress for today, only had like 2hours to work on it...Tomm should be interesting to see how much more I can get done...My plan of attack is 1)Homedepot, 2)IC outlet piping to TB, 3)remove fuel rail and convert to dual feed, 4)swap oil pressure gauge/sender, 5)button it up....Since no one has yet to reply to my questions in my last post-jk

Come on guys, I'm trying to make this as informative as possible and I'm really takign the time to detail/document my build for others...Between running a business 12hrs a day M-F, having a pregnant wife to tend to, and the infamous in-laws in town, cut me some slack..I knwop some of you can do this in 1 sitting probably, but I cant...hopefully my questions will get some attention, and hopefully thos 1000+views I see are newbys gaining alot of help from this...Those of you that have posted here I realllllly appreciate your input and advice! The rest of you CMON!

Here's ur pics!!!! (sam pay attention! I will prob have enough piping left over for 2 setups so let me know when ur ready!)
**EDIT---WHY CANT I POST PICS??? THE "MANAGE ATTACHMENTS" BUTTON IS GONE????
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:49 AM   #93
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Maybe I should just book a jetblue flight to florida and help you out. I'm a recent college grad with a business degree, you can stay home and fiddle with the car and ill run your business . I know you want too.

Btw, where did you buy the couplers and pipe? home depot products?
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:52 PM   #94
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lol...i'm game!
Wideopentuning is where i got the couplers & piping...he's a member here...good guy, but he's been MIA the last week or so, been waiting on a response from him...but i'm sure he'll get back to me soon...
FYI he has a thread in the clasifieds section...some pricing can be found there..
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Old 07-23-2007, 12:58 AM   #95
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Default Big Time Progress Update!!!!---pics??

Someone PLEASE tell me why i cant post pics/what i have to do to post 'em?

Anyway...you'll all be happy to hear that I got ALOT done today...Only had about 6hrs, but kept getting interrupted...

1-Finished hotside piping
2-Started/Finished Coldside piping (hard than I thought)
3-Pulled fuel Rail
4-JB weld on NEW Dual feed fuel rail is curing as we speak!
Also, got around to putting the outlet on the turbo, the fitting for vaccum hose, and premantely clocking it (fine tuned angle/tightened ALL bolts).

What I'm stumped on, and upset about is that I cant for the life of me figure out how I'm supposed to get to the oil pressure sending unit to swap it
I tried from above, tried from below, even removed the wheel...The ONLY way I see is to remove the intake mani..I'm ok with that, but I cant see/get to the bolts UNDER the intake mani...Last time I was workign with a 99head/Mani, so the intake is a 2 piece setup...perrrrect for this...Any Ideas?????

I have some GREAT pics that would really help document alot of stuff...Brain, awesome pics to go in your Fual Rail writeup (if u want)...Showing the tap, hole drilled, fitting, and jb weld...along with process...
Also have great pics of BOTH sets of pipes done, as well as a stp by step on routing...Not cutting or anything, just showing 1 piece going on at a time..easy to see angle, fitment, etc...

Anyway...here's the play-by-play...
IC-piping (coldside)
1-2.5-2.0 transition coupler (straight) off of TB
2-90* hard pipe to make the turn out of the TB (had to trim off some of the
fan shroud..not too much, and integrity is as good as it was)
3-Straight coupler+ 45* hard pipe(90* cut in half) to come slightly away
from stuff(fan shroud, pulley, sway, etc), and down..
4-Straight coupler into 90*Hard pipe bringing the pipes to a 90* angle with
the IC outlet (aka facing forward)
5-straight coupler into 90* hard pipe into the IC.
*I used almost al my pipe..i think I have like 2 straight lengths and a 90* left...also used all my couplers but 1, and I'm short 4 clamps..but it's all good!

Dual feed..
1-Removed 3 bolts holding rail on
2-made some room by removing a vacuum line+pcv, and cutting a zip tie
3-unclipped harness on each injector (broke part of 2 of 'em, but not
bad..should hold fine, lucky it wasnt worse, and YES I was as careful as
I could be, the damn things were shot from the heat, 1 touch and crack)
4-removed gas cap and pulled 2 fuel lines from hard lines (I put a piece of
tape around the feed, also I had NO fuel come out..literally 2 drops..there
was a lil more in the rail/lines, but an once or 2...)
5-removed rail, then removed injectors from bores...(anyone interested in four
1.8l injectors??)
6-Put rail in vice and followed brain's writeup to the letter...NO issues so far...
***One thing I will add (and brain what u think?), i used a couple Q-tips with grease on them to collect any shavings from drilling then tappeing too...ALONG with the grease on the bit trick..Worked great...then as added insurance I blew compressed air throught the thing...

***DP should be here by Tues/Wed, in the meantime i'd really like to swap the oil pressure sender/gauge since I have the rail off...And I'm sending the injectors out tomm to Witchhunter...So my goal is by the time the DP arives, I can finish off all that stuff (all lines, mani, wb, perm install piping, air intake, etc), then get the injectors back, slap it together and all thats left should be electronics...Sounds too easy, but let's see....

So hopefully now that there's progress they'll be posts?? Kinda like "if u build it, they will post"??
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:49 PM   #96
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I think to get to the pressure sender you gotta reach through the passenger side wheel well. I doubt you can do it from above, either way you will need to get to it to tee it off for oil. As for the gauge if you havent guessed you gotta take out the guage cluster.
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:00 PM   #97
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The sender doesnt need to be teed off, its already the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge, just needs to be removed, and replaced with other one(screw off/on affair)..horrible location to get to tho...It must be through the bottom, or wheel well...only way from up top is to remove intake mani..like i said i wouldnt mind that, BUT need some help with location of underside intake mani bolts....

Anyone have a good link to the location of undersid emani bolts, or a goood trick for the sender from below?? The hayne's manual doesnt show the location of the bolts fo rthe mani, only top one's...the "walkthru's" for the sender swap are reallllly vague and useless...Mainly, remove old one, install new one, and then jump to the gauges...pretty lamo

**still gottta find a way to get these pics up
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:03 PM   #98
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look in the garage section of miata.net . There is a write up, showing how to make a little tool to help you out.

Informatin regarding membership rights and picture uploading is in the Front Desk.
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:04 PM   #99
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thanx ben, will take a look at both today!
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:07 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
The sender doesnt need to be teed off, its already the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge, just needs to be removed, and replaced with other one(screw off/on affair).
I understand that, but it sends pressure to the guage where are you getting oil for the turbo?
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