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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

View Poll Results: NEWBY'S....WAS/IS THIS THREAD HELPFUL TO YOU??
YES, GREAT INFO...JUST WHAT I NEEDED TO SEE! 7 38.89%
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Old 07-10-2007, 07:02 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
Now ur starting to make me second guess myself..lol...I dont have a t3, I have a gt25...per begi site
"549.00 p/n 60402 '94 to '97, External Wastegate, w/ EGR, T25 or T28 Turbo" ...of course you'd have to ditch the intg wg...
Either way I'm happy so far...just would like to know for the sake of knowing....
Yes yes, you are correct. Ok, no more posting until triple checking everything I have found.

Sorry.
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Old 07-10-2007, 07:14 PM   #42
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Yes yes, you are correct. Ok, no more posting until triple checking everything I have found.

Sorry.
lol its all good!
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Old 07-10-2007, 07:36 PM   #43
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I think I figured out my question about the maf/map. Depending on what kind of ECU you will be using you may not need one. How I came to this conclusion. Flyin Miata sells a Throttle Body Inlet Pipe and Air Filter Mount, read what it says underneath the picture. Even though the hydra kit uses a recirculating BOV, I dont think it would be needed since you can probably program the computer to work without it.

Id just like to know exactly how it knows how much air is there when using a recirculating valve, setting up fuel maps would be simpler without it I think.


Btw, if its not a secret, how much did you pay for your turbo? I was searching around and its a lot, 800 dollar range. Im going to have to see what people are using alternatively to it and how much they are spending.

edit: Look at the third picture in post #33, that stainless manifold has a turbo with an internal waste gate on it. Interesting?
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Old 07-10-2007, 08:04 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I think I figured out my question about the maf/map. Depending on what kind of ECU you will be using you may not need one. How I came to this conclusion. Flyin Miata sells a Throttle Body Inlet Pipe and Air Filter Mount, read what it says underneath the picture. Even though the hydra kit uses a recirculating BOV, I dont think it would be needed since you can probably program the computer to work without it.
**Like I said I haven't really gotten to deep into the research for the MS, but from what I hear you can set it up alot of different ways...And I assume those different ways each have different things needed to run properly...

Id just like to know exactly how it knows how much air is there when using a recirculating valve, setting up fuel maps would be simpler without it I think.
**Again nooo idea, not yet at least!

Btw, if its not a secret, how much did you pay for your turbo? I was searching around and its a lot, 800 dollar range. Im going to have to see what people are using alternatively to it and how much they are spending.
**I got it for $600 shipped...it's barely used, and was in great condition...Brain pointed me to the t3 super 60, which seems like a great setup, and right before I pulled the trigger, a friend of his wanted to sell a 2560..so I jumped! lol Shoot a pm to Wideopentuning if you like the t3 super 60....thats's where Brain sent me, price seemed good, and he seems like a real good guy...They are very hard (I tried) to find used in good condition...but they are alot less than the gt's new...

Look at the third picture in post #33, that stainless manifold has a turbo with an internal waste gate on it. Interesting?
**think ur right...i heard it COULD be done, but everyone said not to bother with the setup I'm doing since the intg wg is fine....saved me some $$ so thats the way I went.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:32 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
Snip
I dont mean to sound like a dick, but where have you encountered money savings so far by going the DIY route?

Im the type of person that enjoys calling placing, talking to people, even bargaining(must be my jewish roots) so I imagine or hope there would be some money savings, so im curious how much overall that would be. If its small, then maybe its not worth the effort, granted the knowledge you gain from doing it yourself can not have a value placed on it.

Please pardon my curiosity.

Last edited by Saml01; 07-11-2007 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:38 PM   #46
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if he had not spent 700+$ on manifolds then he would be sitting pretty good with a 50$ rrfpr and some 50$ 300cc injectors via me. and could make 250+whp all day long. Or even ditch the fmic and get a DO WI system and make even more hp. but he chose a partial kit and he has kit money in it to prove it. DIY is always cheaper if A you make the parts B you use parts no one else values C you get stuff for free. In my case i used B quite succesfully and A a little but not a whole lot. tab for high hp setup 2500$ including clutch.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:46 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I dont mean to sound like a dick, but where have you encountered money savings so far by going the DIY route?
Im just curious to know how much overall money savings you are anticipating with your approach vs a kit.
Well it's yet to be determined...and you have to compare apples to apples...The cheapest kit, wont have all these things in the setup, so you'd have to look at pretty much the most expensive one's.....Also, see my goals in the 1st post...EITHER save money, or have a setup with all the pros of a kit, but no cons...Simply put, 4k for a good kit+you'd still need ECU+clutch and whatnot...I'm at 3k+ecu+clutch...so hopefully cheaper, and even better...hopefully my setup will not have ANY shortcomings as I am covering/trying to cover every aspect...
But again, to each their own...in the end I'll do a full tally and comments on everything...but there's a long way to go still....

Magna is right, however I dont have the ability to make parts, I have nowhere to get them for free, and I wasnt willing to take risks...So for me th eoption was basically pay for a kit, and get the rest...OR DIY but safely/surely....Again to each their own, but if I end up saving a lil money, and have all the best parts so i can sleep at night...I'm one happy *****!

**parts update....The list in the previous post will be here on Friday!!! Also, a couple pieces are coming today! I will continue taking pics of the parts as they come in, BEFORE they are on the car...and of course after...
**The inlaw's are coming in from Germany on sunday....Hopefully Saturday is VERY productive, as the next 2 weeks I'll be escaping to the garage late at night to turn a bolt here & there...
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Old 07-11-2007, 03:58 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvalenziano View Post
and 3" after the flex.., somethign what arry, and it shipped incorrectly..
Make sure it's actually 3" after the flex. When my DP arrived, I measured the ID of the pipe and it was 2.75" even though I had specifically ordered 3" piping from before the wastegate re-entry, all the way back to the flange. I wasted $120 in shipping to have Corky tell me that their 3" pipes were 2.98" OD with .080 wall thicknesses. I wasn't about to argue with him, since I needed the DP ASAP, but I was not pleased that I paid for a 3" DP and got a 2.8" DP.

Basically, be careful, because if you intend to buy 3" flanges from someone like Jason at Enthuza, they aren't going to bolt up to your 3" Begi DP. Everyone else measures exhaust piping on the ID; don't know why BEGI measures it on the OD.
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Old 07-11-2007, 04:33 PM   #49
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To be honest my whole experience with begi has been really confusing and somewhat frustrating...Hopefully it'll be resolved shortly...
Communication w/ Steph has been real slow...the DP was actually delivered to me today, and UPS had seen that the sneder requested it sent back...However, yesterday afternoon I got an email from Steph saying that my DP was completed and ready to ship... I wrote back for an explanation, and told her why that didnt make sense, and I got no response...
Like I said hopefully it gets resolved.., soon...The manifold went smoothly, but considering I spent close to 1k...I'd really expect better on the info part...

As for the sizing, my plan is to resuse the stock flange on the cat..basically cut it off, and have it welded to the 3" custom piping....I'm guessing it can be "opened up" to the same size as whatever the dp is...But interesting to hear ur story/explanation..In that case the original size of "2.75" is really less than 2"?? I dunno...but will keep u posted..
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Old 07-11-2007, 04:43 PM   #50
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Always call Steph, no point in waiting for her emails, you could be waiting a long time.
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Old 07-11-2007, 04:50 PM   #51
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Yeah well shouldn.t be like that...and besides the 2x's I called she was unavailable, and out of the office...AND I like to have things written, especially when there's miscommunication...Besides, when I first began the process of ordering her emails were real fast...

I'm gonna try and give the benefit of the doubt, and say there's a reason for whatever happened, and she'll be all over it, with no more issues...Anyone can drop the ball once...but if there's a 2nd time thats another story..

Sent her an email, and will call Begi to at least let her know to respond asap..
Keep u guys posted...
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Old 07-11-2007, 06:19 PM   #52
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Default A lil help....

Guys, looks like everyone is on the same page again at Begi...

I need to show them where I want the wb02 bung installed by marking a pic...I'm clueless as I cant tell where from the pics sent to me, nor am I sure that nothing will interfere...

Does anyone have a pic that I can send to Steph showing the location/orientation?

Attached are the pics i was given to mark, but again I dont know my *** from elbow on this...
Attached Thumbnails
Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-1.8_downpipe_secondary_o2_sensor_air_fuel.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-begi_o2_sensor.jpg   Diy  Build/parts List--1st Timer!!-begi_o2_sensor2.jpg  
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Old 07-11-2007, 06:52 PM   #53
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I always thought that exhaust piping sizes refered to the OD?
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:37 PM   #54
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those pictures really suck

I don't get why BEGi has such a hard time locating o2 bungs. Look at your second (middle) pic. You want your o2 in the same location BUT closer to vertical, with respect to the top of the pipe. The o2 bung pictured is horizontal, which is bad.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:40 PM   #55
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Tubing is measured by the OD.
Pipe is measured by the ID.
That is usually the industry standard.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:01 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
those pictures really suck

I don't get why BEGi has such a hard time locating o2 bungs. Look at your second (middle) pic. You want your o2 in the same location BUT closer to vertical, with respect to the top of the pipe. The o2 bung pictured is horizontal, which is bad.
Lol..I know but thats what they gave me...I thought I saw somone post a pic for the same reason (marking) but cant find it now...

So ben you're sure about location?? If I tell them to put it 100% vertical it wont interfere with anything (body, etc)?? Sorry to be a pain but I can see them putting it on as I tell them, then havign issues and them saying we did what u wanted...
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:07 PM   #57
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just dont mount it like i did there.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:10 PM   #58
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U mean cuz the bung is sideways?? Sorry just hard to tell jokes from reality cuz I dont know anythign about it....
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:47 PM   #59
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no i mean the lc-1 itself, the bung is good.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:03 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
no i mean the lc-1 itself, the bung is good.
Does it matter if its before the flex pipe or after? Why didnt you have the bung put in on the top of the pipe, looks like there room?
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